Recent content by Deathproofcuda

Yup, I blew up the one in my first Barracuda, 71 318/904 car. Had pieces of gear shrapnel sticking out of the rear cover. I replaced it with a junkyard 8-3/4. Finished bolting in the new rear late one night, excited to drive my car to high school again the next day. Took it for a quick trip...

Awesome! Thank you Sir! I've been sitting on the fence about buying one of these for some time now, so am very interested to follow along and see what your thoughts are. :thumbsup:

So @RonnieT how do you fit in with this car? Assuming you are not the current owner, as you don't seem like someone that has owned an E-Body for the last 22 years. You just marketing this thing for someone else?

There are many things about this car that are not "factory" beyond the claimed dealer installed add ons and a BC/CC repaint. Good luck with the sale. Looks to likely be a fairly solid and nice driver, but I think you chose the wrong forum to try and market this car as "a true factory-reference...

"A true factory reference" seems like a loonnngggg stretch for this car.

70-71 Chrome bumpers OER, AMD, other ? in Body Shop - Page 2 See post # 22 of this link

Interesting idea... Would have to think about how to modify this setup for Plymouth E-body use since the gas cap for Cudas is accessed behind the rear license plate.

IIRC, the nut on the backside is not fixed in place. Once you loosen the bolt, you should be able to move it. May be stuck in place and will need a few taps to loosen it up.

No expert on this, but that is what I was thinking too. My experience on this is limited, but if the entire rear edge is proud, as opposed to just the upper portion of the door, I'd probably try to adjust the striker first. Should be alot easier than trying to adjust the alignment of the upper...

My recollection from a few years back is that everyone who was really sweating the details used a spray gun to shoot paint purchased from Frank Badalson. I don't see paint listed on the website, but there is phone and email contact information. About Us - Roger Gibson

:welcome: Welcome and nice score!! Looks like you have a nice well organized space where some work actually gets done. Looking forward to following along on your progress.

Don't fill it to the bottom of the cap like you would for a later model car. Just fill until you see that the plates are covered when the radiator is cold. The factory radiator for a 70 model needs the air space between the top of the plates and bottom of the cap for expansion when heated. If...

Looks like you are looking at the stuff offered by Real Time Engineering. I repaired my tach with one of their kits about 20 years ago. I don't see a phone number on their website, but there are some email addresses listed. RTE About - rte

I'll add that as a guy that has only owned Plymouths from this time frame, I've always been a bit jealous of all the cool tail stripe options that Dodge had back then.

Agreed, that's where I would start. Make sure it is good and hot since you said it only happens after you have been driving for a while. Resistance in electrical circuits increases with heat, so you may have a connection on the hairy edge just on the verge of making/breaking contact.