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Looks great, I'm tempted to pull my old dash out of the attic and give it a go. What you've done looks way better than my "recovered" dash that cost me $800. H*ll, the dash I have with a cap looks better than what I have now. Just need more details on going from crack to plastic welding.

Not familiar with plastic welding, how does that work?

Sometimes it's the turn signal switch, happened to me https://postimg.cc/kDK6gbxf][/url]

What's the base to build up the area? This Viper material is just a skim coat? It looks like the Viper stuff is $40 and whatever for shipping. So how much of it will you need? I think it looks good, I'd go this route before spending $1500-$2k. And my dash from the scammers in Texas looks like crap.

I was wondering, that huge rough patch in the bad pic, made me think , that repair looks amazing.

Nice collection! Which of the 2 new cars runs harder?

It might be an inrush current issue, since it works sometimes. A short would blow all the time. Try a slow blow fuse or up it to 40A and see what happens

Really like the green strip, but the eBay link is dead. Any additional details, maybe on Amazon? Thx

I'd check whether they are cast or forged.

I don't think you'll have an issue with the height. But that size tire is normally a truck tire. Might be a harsh / noisy ride?

Mopar 53032456AE Bell Crank, this is the part needed to convert your stock gas pedal to drive by wire and maintain kick down functionality needed for the 904/727/518 transmissions behind a 3G Hemi. Fully tested and functional, includes the wiring harness, $150 includes shipping to US Paypal...

To be clear, those pads through Classic for $700 will NOT have a metal core. That metal piece shown in your pic will be plastic (ABS) with foam and vinyl molded over it. I wouldn't do that unless you don't plan on having the car out in the sun or heat. I worked in the electronics industry for...

What is that from, pretty sure it's not for an E-Body *** Edit: Thought that was the frame that the dash attaches to, after a 2nd look, you've stripped all the padding off the dash core. Yes, a new dash would come with the metal core. I didn't look up the PN.

1) 70 has a cursive Challenger/Cuda nameplate. 71-74 has a square plate with decal for the name tag 2) Frame is the same for all years, we put a Challenger dash in a Cuda, way back 3) Correct, ABS is a plastic frame 4) Do NOT use ABS, flimsy and warps in the heat

How do you ship this out? There was NO damage to the shipping box. The only thing that saved me was that I bought through a group buy, and the dealer fought along with me to not get screwed. The picture looks MUCH better than it actually was. Paid for metal frame and they sent this plastic piece...

Nice, What did it run?

Check this thread, great guy that helped me out with several issues. Smart guy and huge asset to the hobby. 1974 Challenger Restomod in Your Restoration project (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) - Page 22

Whatever you do, figure out what the whole system is going to be. I made the mistake of buying piecemeal and found things don't always work together. I bought the Holley mounts, I found out later they move the engine forward and wouldn't work with the TTI headers I bought. So I ended up...

Unfortunately your situation isn't uncommon with Dash Pros, or whatever they call themselves. Big red flag when a company has changed names more often than they change their underwear. People need to search web, and be forewarned of others experience. Sorry you had to go through all that. See...

I wouldn't go to all that trouble. Probably wouldn't be too hard to drill a small hole in the PCV fitting and epoxy a nipple to hook up the line from the tank.