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Start with a fresh battery. For first start, I'd try setting the timing around 10 degrees BTDC on compression with rotor pointed at #1 plug terminal. Unless you have cleaned out the tank, hopefully you are feeding fuel to the carb from clean fuel can. Sounds like fun. Good luck with it...

:thumbsup:

X2, check and see if you have fuel at inlet and outlet sides of the fuel pump. Seems unlikely, but many years ago I replaced a mechanical fuel pump on my Cuda and couldn't get the car to run. We eventually traced things back to the new (probably rebuilt) mechanical fuel pump and figured out...

Stock system with a mechanical pump, or what are we dealing with here?

I've seen recommendations for full centrifugal advance coming in at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm; however, your setup is consistent with Chrysler's own super tuning recommendations from 1969, all in (34 to 38 degrees) by 1,200 to 1,500 rpm. See Master Technicians Service Conference Reference Book 69-12...

Hard to know what you mean by "slightest pressure on the throttle" but as designed (with distributor advance mechanism connected to ported vacuum) there should be zero vacuum advance at idle. As soon as throttle blades begin to open, the ported vacuum connection will start to see manifold...

:welcome: Good lookin' Cuda :thumbsup:

Good luck with it and report back with what you figure out. :thumbsup:

Sorry, clockwise. Good catch! Dumbass me contradicting myself in the same post. I went back and fixed it.

Keep in mind that factory timing specs from that time were also based on emissions controls and in some cases were based on Chrysler's use of distributors with advance retard mechanisms. You might use them as a starting point, but I'd never use them as the basis for how my car is tuned now...

Correct, no argument there. As I previously stated, the method you previously posted is the accurate way to determine TDC. But still helpful to know if #1 is in compression or exhaust stroke when trying to set up dizzy for a first start.

Starting where you are now, with the balancer mark pointing at TDC: Start turning the crank clockwise and continue until the balancer mark gets about 3/4 of the way around. Now place your thumb over and try to seal the open spark plug hole on the # 1 cylinder (you may need a helper to do...

No. Your crank turns two times for every revolution of the cam and distributor. So every time the distributor makes one complete rotation, the mark on the balancer will pass the TDC mark on the timing cover twice. Typically we want to know when TDC is on the firing stroke (compression), which...

#1 piston hits TDC twice per cycle, one during compression and once during exhaust, so rotor being 180 degrees off makes sense. Just means that the piston is at TDC during the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve is open) instead of during compression when both are closed. The accurate way is what...

Seems even more odd. Base timing of 5-7 degrees is pretty low. Most engines want more than 10, many are happiest closer to or even over 20 degrees of initial timing. That fact that yours runs like crap by adding vacuum advance to 5-7 degrees of base timing is strange. Something else is going...

Not true. We love projects around here. Let's see what you are starting with. Even better that your family has owned the car since day one. You've gotta have a few "back in the day" pics that can be digitized and posted up. Those are always crowd pleasing favorites :thumbsup: 383 car...

Great story and :welcome: How about some pics of the family heirloom?

Why are you trying to find TDC? In other words, how accurate do you need to be?

Seems odd, as most engines respond positively to a little more advance, but can't really tell without more information. What is your base timing set at and how is it changing in response to these changes? What is rpm doing when you make these changes? How does timing change in response to rpm...

Amazing attention to detail! (similar to your 72 RR/GTX) :thumbsup: Looking forward to seeing this around the local shows.