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I found a listing for two different Pitman arms that don't look the same. The three different Pitman arms are listed on Classics site for different years and applications, power and manual steering. Maybe I have a different years' part...

I remember hearing about a dropped arm but I can't remember where. When I get it re-installed I will know more. Thanks!

Maybe about a 1/2". I will have to wait until I get the Kframe and steering re-installed to measure it properly. Thanks. At least I don't feel as if I am going crazy with all the comments about how I probably installed it wrongly.

I'll have to wait until I get the engine compartment painted to re-install the Kframe and steering to see what the difference is.

I put everything back according to the factory manual (I have a hard copy of the manual) but I have heard of deeper dropped pitman and idler arms that are used to gain clearance to the oil pan. I don't know which is which.

There is no oil pan in there now to know if that is the case. The Borggeson steering box is what is different to the stock setup.

No offense taken. I just got done a front passenger frame replacement on a jig for accuracy and the drag link was unlevel before I did that. I though the bent frame gave that look to it but everything is kosher measurement wise with it. I have heard of different length drops to the pitman arm...

I have the K frame and components off right now, but the idler arm is either higher or the pitman arm is lower. I used a new pitman arm that was for the old stock power steering box.

I have installed a Borgeson quick ratio steering box in my 72 Challenger. I bought new Pitman and idler arms. My question is why does the drag link ( center link) look unlevel to the ground and k frame? Are there different length Pitman and Idler arms that could cause this?

Do you have front bumper brackets for a 1972 Challenger?

Do you have front bumper brackets for a 1972 Challenger?

All of them need massaging. Years ago I got a set from Year One and they fit pretty well. I now weld the holes shut and leave them off as the holes are a rust catcher. You can put some deflector under the paint to keep the chips at a minimum.

All of them need massaging. Years ago I got a set from Year One and they fit pretty well. I now weld the holes shut and leave them off as the holes are a rust catcher. You can put some deflector under the paint to keep the chips at a minimum.

Making your own frame is an option if you are confident with your abilities but I would try to stay with what is available to replace what should be there. The economics of an aftermarket frame is out of the question at around ten grand. You will absolutely need a frame jig which will locate the...

If this is your first bodywork job you will need to establish a jig that will locate the structural components and start from there. Tear out only what you need to install these components and avoid final welding until you have all the panels and doors re-installed. If you are on a low buck...

I like looking at the original cars but they never did steer or stop well. The modifications I do to the car are for my edification and won't add much value except for the parts. And we all know how hard it is to sell a car based on that.

They would look cool too. You just have to take into consideration the compound curve of the Challengers fenders when placing them.

I have one of the older ones. They shipped mine without the 2" extension blocks. I called them up and they said they would ship them and they never did. I welded my own in and cutout where they pass through the old support.