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well started fitting the pan had to slide the back end under the rear pan, then over the trans tunnel and back up to the flange in the engine compartment, will cut the trans tunnel, since it is now overlapped with a 1/32" air cutting wheel after the front, rocker side, and frame rail are...

well up at 5am this morning, got my metal splash shield/ floorboard support yesterday. treated it with afterblast. went out this morning heated up area with heat gun to ensure it dried, turned the heat up in the shop and blasted some etching primer inside the exposed frame rails. only 17 degrees...

I agree

I would just scrap it back and use some etching primer, if you wanted you could spray bottle some of the after blast first, lightly and put some rags etc. on the floor to catch it. let it dry good maybe warm it up slightly with a heat gun to dry it thoroughly. but i would physically remove as...

leaves a nickel film and stops flash rust before prime

yep, and on casters, wanted to preserve the exterior of the car so a rotisserie was not gonna cut it, with the glass it it

you need to sand and remove as much as possible, afterblast is a metal etching for adhesion promotion and leave a zinc coating. you got alot of sanding to do first. then use a spray bottle to apply it, a little goes a long way, and remember its acid is will f---k you and other things up...

in reverse this morning again, removed the splash shield from the rocker to floor pan, ground and sanded the crust back to metal, will treat with afterblast (the acid and nickel phosphate). and wipe it down and wait for the new metal coming friday.

we will see how the D.O.G.E. does, hopefully they will turn off the faucet for some of these frivolous programs and tighten up the spending. and shrink the government a bit it's definitely out of control. thus turning off some of these taxes that are killing the working and retired people.

that usually kills the deal for me when I buy parts online, no protection from the scammers, taxes are out of control. I guess I'll never sell my stash parts.

thats what i was thinking, I figured I'd give her ass a break been drilling and pounding on it for weeks. :lol:

on to the last mess of going in reverse, and removing the last of the sins. was thinking of using about half of the floor board replacement panel, but the crust went further than planned so took it to the factory connection point. again rusted from the inside out, confined to the drivers...

tail panel complete for welding, minus a few touch ups, tired of the ass end for a while. fixed a few dents in the frame rail with a little heat and a dent puller

thanks very much John, Happy New Year!

looks good

fitting the rear valence, was off about 5/8" high to the quarter panels. last step I think, bumper holes on frame rails were not changed so if there's any discrepancies I should be able to adjust with the bumper brackets (I hope) so skipping assembling that. time to remove the tail panel drill...

Thanks, I thought it sloped slightly in having a larger reveal at the bottom. was gonna get the bfh and dolly out for a minor adjustment :lol: will move my driver side slightly in to match passenger.

lining up pretty well

I think i found my answer this is from Kissimmee Mecum last year unrestored