Search results for query: *

You may want to reconsider how you're routing that fuel line... Good chance the hood or something is going to pinch that rubber fuel line and cause a leak that's going to spray onto the really hot header pipe. That's if the pump can actually push the fuel the distance you're asking it to. Looks...

I must have missed the part about the points. I was thinking electronic ignition. Points are even more susceptible to causing problems like this. Even though the gap might be set correctly if the spark advance isn't working correctly the dwell time gets all messed up. If nothing else, bet the...

I second the need to check and make sure the mechanical advance is working correctly. I've seen the mechanical advance stuck in the advanced position, generally from a little corrosion after an extended period of not moving, as in following winter storage. Setting the base timing with the mech...

Legendary sells the seat foam but only as a complete set. https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/products/mf73cbjset/

You might want to consider a fan controller that can adjust the speed of your existing cooling fans depending on the engine temp. There's a lot of good and not so good suggestions/ideas on the Internet but I would suggest talking to someone who builds them. There's a company in Iowa that builds...

"Yes it does have a idle speed solenoid. Was thinking about removing it." I wouldn't be so quick to remove it since it's job is to address the problem you're having. Rather check to see if it's working. The plunger should extend out when the engine is running. Idle speed needs to be adjusted at...

Sounds like the idle speed is too high. Putting the car in drive with the brake applied is lowing the idle speed enough to alleviate the backfiring. Does the engine use some sort of idle speed solenoid or dashpot? If so, maybe a problem there. And yes, excessive base timing can also lead to a...

"When i hold down switch 1 and start the car the LCD blanks out..." That's a pretty big clue. Like the Dakota Digital suggestion says, constant power could be dropping down when you crank the engine. The other thing could be an insufficient ground. The instruction manual calls out a 18 AWG...

So just for the sake of making sure I understand the manual advised sequence of steps vs the sequence you're trying... The manual says "Press and hold SW1, then turn the key on and start the engine. Once the engine is running, release SW1. “SEt SPEED” should be displayed. Press and hold the...

You'll want to get some spark plug wire looms and get those wires separated correctly. A lot of potential for ignition cross firing shown in those pictures. Could be the cause of the ignition rattle you mentioned.

Probably noteworthy that the two problem cylinders, #1 and #8, are adjacent in the firing order and on opposite sides of the engine. Intermittent issues that move from cylinder to cylinder almost have to be ignition related. There aren't many things that could go wrong in a points ignition that...

Yes, thanks for posting that video. I wasn't aware that the hub/rotor was ever a two-piece design for Mopars. That's the best part of these forums... learn something everyday

"The studs protrude through the brake rotor from the hub and the brake rotor is press fitted onto the center flange of the hub so it becomes a fixed unit." After thinking about it a little more it makes sense that the original hub/rotor would have to be built that way. The engineers wouldn't...

I doubt that you'll find such a thing. What would lock the hub to the rotor? Relying on just a pressed on fit would be asking for trouble that I can't imagine any manufacturer would be willing to risk. Imagine slamming on the brakes and the rotor clamping to the caliper but breaking free from...

Make sure the bolts are the correct length. The four bolt holes at the front of the 727 transmission are not through holes so if one of those bolts is slightly long it could bottom out in the hole before the pan is properly torqued. If the leak is coming from around the bolts you might want to...

Just messaged you on this Mr. Floyd

I have the exact same set up as you on a small block. No issues, works great. Make sure you have the spacers that come with the March pulley set installed correctly. Guessing maybe you are missing a spacer or have one in the wrong place. That would account for the movement in the alternator.

I converted my 74 Challenger non-rallye cluster to the Dakota Digital rallye cluster and am pretty happy with it. You'll need the gauge bezel housing and the switch housing. Plus the wood overlay. I think you'll also need the trim piece that screws to the switch housing. Plus whatever else I...

Unfortunately I just scrapped these these exact brackets last week for a nickel a pound. Entirely rust free. I had posted the bumpers for sale here and didn't receive any interest so off to the recycling center they went. Bummer...

Getting ready to scrap a PS gear out of a 74 Challenger and just wanted to make sure no one had a use for it. It worked fine when it was removed. Probably would have to be pick-up only since it would cost a small fortune to ship. $50 if anyone has a use for it and wants to pick it up. Same...