A 700cfm carb (or a little more cfm - I was always told to double the displacement of the engine to determine a good start point for cfm of the carb), 10.5 pistons (from early year 340), a little head and intake work on the ports, headers, a proper camshaft for either a stick or automatic...
I had thought the same thing on a few parts and pieces during my restoration. I figured if what I put on now lasts 25 years, we're good. I doubt I'll be around driving it when I am 85. Let the next person spend the extra cash. My 2 cents. Pun intended. Cheers!
Welcome to the show, from your neighbor in Idaho. I left Sac, CA in June of 2023. I see the wood stove, so you must be up North and not effected by the fires hopefully. I agree with Challenger RTA, you seem to be off to a good start. Cheers!
Welcome from across the pond. Ha, I have a tach in a storage box just like yours. Question, do you folks run 1/8 and 1/4 mile over there or is it metric distance? Just curious, not trying to be an a$$. Cheers!
I used Por15 on everything that was rusty and would be covered/unseen. Probably similar to the Rust-oleum product as it creates a bullet proof finish as it binds with the rust.
If approved "as-is", I'll put my money on "ex-spouse". Hey, you need at least one closet. And you need more lateral on the front. Spendy to have a swiss cheese garage door wall.
For me, it didn't matter which manufacturer. I was just looking for a hot rod/muscle car. Options didn't matter at all, just wanted a V8 in it. I got stupid lucky and found this car for $2,000 sitting in a field thanks to my CHP buddy. I never realized how much time and money I'd spend on it...
Welcome to the show, from the State of Idaho. Good luck on your project. Been there done that to a 73 Chally. Give us some stats on your car. And photos.