Search results for query: *

How would you fix a lean condition if that is the problem? Currently running a new Edelbrock 1906 AVS2.

Swapping the distributor is my next move. Fired it up and it ran good yesterday, with #8 still running 100 degrees cooler than the others. I think the vacuum advance in the distributor has issues as well. Thanks.

I have it installed, no big deal. 1906 avs2 650 and the Edelbrock 1481 throttle bracket. Thanks!

Fighting this issue for quite awhile. Bought car 2 years ago, 1970 Challenger SE, originally 383 2bbl single exhaust, at some point before I purchased converted to 4bbl, unknown cam and headers. Did all the basics over and over, plug wires, plugs(twice), cap, rotor, coil, ballast resistor...

When using the 1406 avs2 change over how many modifications are needed for throttle linkage and fuel lines? Thanks

Awesome, thank you

I am guessing when I say it has a mild cam, it ran so bad when I got it. Turns out it had 2 dead cylinders, one bad plug wire and one bad spark plug. Has a bad set of hammer tuned headers that I would like to get rid of in the future.

This is the battle, trying to get good vacuum. Currently running steady at 17 on gauge. Timing advanced to get to this number. Runs real good right now, so maybe this is where it's happy.

Bought the 1970 Se 383 auto a month ago and have been trying to get it running better every day. Sometimes I think I've won and then it fails. Engine has unknown cam and has headers, stock ignition and carb (new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, voltage reg, ballast resistor, carb rebuild,). Using...

I need to purchase seat belts for my '70 SE, my rear side panels have cutouts like it had retractable belts. Can someone direct me to a thread where this is discussed or recommend a vendor. Thank you

So obviously not a tranny issue but lesson learned, original thought was some type of vacuum modulator on the trans. Now I know to get the car tuned upfront and then deal with the demons. Thanks again. It runs great, took it for a spin to get gas! Oh yeah, Chryco Psycho dead on! thank you

Quick update! I looked inside the carb and could see the butterflies were open at idle which was causing the high vacuum at the distributor advance. After backing the idle speed screw completely off the throttle arm, the vacuum at the distributor advance is minimal. Also played with advance and...

As I'm sitting here at work and thinking about the car, I know the idle adjusting screw is turned in a lot which would open the butterflies and create vacuum to the advance. Hose is currently connected passenger side small port.

This truck I sold recently 1971 Cheyenne, Dark Olive and White 350 auto, ps, pb, ac. Original longbed cut down to short. Still have the Orange 1972, 402 auto, ps, pb ac. Highlander plaid interior.

I am leaning towards the vacuum advance being connected to the wrong port using full manifold vacuum. Thanks for the replies and I will let you know what I find.

Thanks for the reply, will do. It runs so good it's hard to believe it is so far out of tune but I will check it all out.

I will watch the gauge next time I try to solve the problem, thanks

Appears to be standard Mopar ignition with exception of plug wires. Stock intake manifold and carb. Engine internals are unknown and has headers. The car idles very smooth before putting in gear. Thanks for the reply. I will continue to test and look for the answer.

I've checked the timing and idle screws. Just now while looking for a vacuum leak I found that disconnecting the vacuum advance hose also kills the engine. So most likely vacuum issue.

Brought home a '70 Challenger SE, 383 auto. Car runs and idles great but dies when putting in gear. I have the idle set at 1200rpm and it still dies. Not sure which trans I have yet since I just got the car. I know the trans has some type shift kit but unknown. When putting it in gear and the...