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in reverse this morning again, removed the splash shield from the rocker to floor pan, ground and sanded the crust back to metal, will treat with afterblast (the acid and nickel phosphate). and wipe it down and wait for the new metal coming friday.

we will see how the D.O.G.E. does, hopefully they will turn off the faucet for some of these frivolous programs and tighten up the spending. and shrink the government a bit it's definitely out of control. thus turning off some of these taxes that are killing the working and retired people.

that usually kills the deal for me when I buy parts online, no protection from the scammers, taxes are out of control. I guess I'll never sell my stash parts.

thats what i was thinking, I figured I'd give her ass a break been drilling and pounding on it for weeks. :lol:

on to the last mess of going in reverse, and removing the last of the sins. was thinking of using about half of the floor board replacement panel, but the crust went further than planned so took it to the factory connection point. again rusted from the inside out, confined to the drivers...

tail panel complete for welding, minus a few touch ups, tired of the ass end for a while. fixed a few dents in the frame rail with a little heat and a dent puller

thanks very much John, Happy New Year!

looks good

fitting the rear valence, was off about 5/8" high to the quarter panels. last step I think, bumper holes on frame rails were not changed so if there's any discrepancies I should be able to adjust with the bumper brackets (I hope) so skipping assembling that. time to remove the tail panel drill...

Thanks, I thought it sloped slightly in having a larger reveal at the bottom. was gonna get the bfh and dolly out for a minor adjustment :lol: will move my driver side slightly in to match passenger.

lining up pretty well

I think i found my answer this is from Kissimmee Mecum last year unrestored

i got back tonight and was looking at the tail panel install, i pushed the bottom of the tail panel out on the bottom pretty forceful when i screwed it in. when looking at the tail panel to rear quarter reveal it looks like i'm going to have to go out about a a fat quarter " more to keep the...

to be honest AMD is all I ever used, I compared original to These panels and they are very close to original, worst case I had a front fender on a 68 charger that a body line was stamped off position about 5/8". that was 10 years ago. Got a lesson on metal massaging from an old mexican friend...

finished up a frame patch, welded a few more holes. removed the weld nuts on the new AMD rear crossmember, were welded to the wrong side, I guess **** happens. Can't complain about the quality of the AMD panels, would be nearly impossible to do this without them. spent about 4 hours fitting the...

when I saw the pic you posted it looked very familiar, I dug this out this morning. you may wanna try a different pan, I changed the gasket 4 times on this pan. I'm thinking three different types of gaskets and Permatex on the last try which is tabu for transmissions (what I've always heard)...

I had a new fancy chrome pan fought with it for 2 months put the stock old beat up one back on, fixed no leaks since.

very nice

I redid some about ten years ago stripped all the paint shot it black took a rag and wiped the top off to expose the chrome. ended up mixing red and orange together with multiple tries finding the right color, 68 rt, and layed the emblem flat and dripped the paint into it until it flowed across...

:popcorn: