Well, I have started it a few times in the last 2 days and so far, the fuse has not popped. :)
But after reinstalling both instrument panels, I wanted to make sure all 4 switches were working before reinstalling all the screws.
They all work with the exception that my wiper blades are not...
Any suggestions what to seek out now?
I did purchase a new starter relay awhile back so I guess I can hook everything back up and put that in tomorrow and see if that does any good.
OK, after pulling all the fuses out, there is now NO continuity between the red wire pin and ALL the other pins.
(I also jiggled the harness around multiple times w/ same results)
When the fuses were in, there was usually continuity between the red pin and Q2-12BL & J2A-12DBL*
and always w/ the...
Last time I looked, both sides of the molex looked healthy along w/ the back sides of the fuse box and bulkhead. I will look at them again.
Can you explain what you want me to check for if I pull all the fuses out of the fuse block??
Taking the Road King out for a cruise, be back in a few hrs. :)
I rechecked the molex (non-ign. side) a few more times and at times there is still continuity between red(J1-12R) and: Q2-12BL & J2A-12DBL*
Could you explain (like you said) how the conections in the molex(?) plug could be touching?? (They are all separated in the plastic molding?)
Well, I got the tape removed from bulkhead and molex each to the Y and it all looks good to there.
Looks like this person's issue in this picture was further up the harness yet.
Not much room to work with under there! :(
I'll see how much further I can get in the next few days.
1)So splice #1 is considered the wires that are wrapped up that go from the molex to the bulkhead/ fuse box? 2)This is where the issue should be then? 3)I shouldn't have to worry about any of the wires that split off at that main large 3way intersection that go over to passenger side area then?
In this picture, it looks like your issue was under your splice friction tape. Correct?
Also, is it easier to try to unwrap the tape or try to open it w/ a clothing seam ripper as I have read is an option?
1) How do I know which sections are suspect?
2)How do I know if there is damage under the splice friction tape sections w/o opening them?
3)Did you do yours in or out of car?
So there is spliced wires wrapped separately under the electrical tape that needs to be untaped also?
Did you do yours while in or out of car?
Also, should I skip that 1st section like you did?
Well, I just checked the back of the fuse block, and everything looks normal. I had to twist it to get a good look.
So, I thought after the twisting, I would check connections for continuity again.
Well, now there is continuity AGAIN w/ Q2-12BK, so there must be some open wires under the harness...
No, I was not against brake pedal. I just tried moving the wires that go from molex to bulkhead around several times and still get no continuity after ea. try.
So now that there is NO continuity between red and the other 4 main wires, which is what we wanted, what do you now suggest?
When I checked the 2nd time, I didn't move any wires around? Should I purposely move some of the wires around that go from Molex to bulkhead area and see if I get continuity readings again?
Also, I did not remove any fuses. Was i suppose to?
I have all 4 bulkheads disconnected, so disconnecting the neg. cable couldn't have anything to do with it. I don't know why then that there was different readings after rechecking about 2 hrs. later.
Anyways, by having no continuity between the red and the other 4 main thick wires is what we...