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For the headlights, the only connection between the foot switch and the lamp sockets is the bulkhead connector. Start at the lamps, with the headlight switch on, check for voltage on the red wire (high beam) and the violet wire (low beam). Then check both sides of the bulkhead connector on those...

The Mad electrical article about late seventies trucks again? Under normal conditions, all stock, correctly loaded, there little to no current flowing through the ammeter while the engine is running, full electrical load from the alternator does not flow through the ammeter while in operation...

Assuming the replacement dimmer/foot switch is good, there’s an open between the dimmer switch and the lamps. Which circuit is working, the highs beam or low beams? Dash illumination, should come on with the park lights, circuit routes from the headlight switch to the dash light dimmer, a...

Finally some paint on the car.

To clarify, for ’72, that is the seat belt buzzer only, the key buzzer is incorporated into the horn relay.

That’s all the delay relay/timer needs, constant power and a ground trigger from the door pin switch circuit, yellow output wire goes to the lamps. Wiring diagram is in the FSM, under accessories should you change your mind.

On an E-body, the time delay relay turns on the mentioned headlight switch title lamp and the ignition switch light only. Nothing to do with interior or map lighting. While triggered by the door switch circuit, its not part of it and can be removed, or in this case omitted, without effecting any...

It's a latter replacement switch, see the instructions at the end of this video.

Some more load testing for this "Shunt wire" by-pass. 120+ amps on the stock wiring before any circuit protection opens?

You bet. You will want to clean out the remnants if that missing brush from anywhere near the bearing before reassembly.

The brush assemblies have to be removed before disassembling and/or reassembling the case halves, you will need new brushes. Looks like you reassembled it with the brushes in place, are now damaged, needing replacement.

Yes, Tuff Stuff is good, run them as well. You’ve had it apart then? Once more, you removed the green field wire and grounded the terminal to the alternator case? Disconnect both field wires, check for continuity between the two field terminals. Make sure there is no continuity between either...

With the other field terminal grounded? Alternator is bad.

Did you perform a full field test? Disconnect the green field wire from the alternator and ground the terminal, make sure there is battery voltage on the blue field wire with the key on, is there higher than battery voltage at the alternator output stud while running with a full 12 volts applied...

What do you have on the other field terminal (blue wire)?

Sounds like a full field test is the next order of business. Remove the green field wire from the alternator and ground the terminal, see what the resulting output voltage is. Be sure there is battery voltage present on the other field terminal (blue wire). Be really careful with those mentioned...

Load testing this "Shunt wire" underhood by-pass, Safer?

There’s been some recent renewed discussions circulating lately about the “Shunt wire”, or under-hood direct battery to alternator, by-pass for the original Chrysler charging system. More claims of a simple fix that makes the stock charging system and related wiring/components safer by having...

To be clear, an all-stock 60amp charging system from this time would have a “Fleet By-pass” from the factory. A bulkhead by-pass, no charge path Packard’s at the bulkhead connector. I’m a “as designed” proponent but the bulkhead charge path Packard’s are, and have always been, the weakest link...