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To be clear, an all-stock 60amp charging system from this time would have a “Fleet By-pass” from the factory. A bulkhead by-pass, no charge path Packard’s at the bulkhead connector. I’m a “as designed” proponent but the bulkhead charge path Packard’s are, and have always been, the weakest link...

Keep in mind that described “engine bay by-pass”, performed as most folks promoting it suggest, exposes all the factory unfused wiring to more than double the current potential on the event of a short thanks to Ohm’s law as applied to parallel circuits. Connect the added loads on the alternator...

Maybe it has been mentioned here already I didn’t see. The only way to do voltage drop tests accurately is with some current flowing. Need to take these measurements with the engine running and some loads turned on. Static or engine off results will not necessarily reflect correct high...

Not a fan of these conversions, at least a pristine E-body Rallye cluster ammeter wasn’t cannibalized for another one of these voltmeter conversions. Did that ammeter find a good home? Would have liked to have had one like that for my current E-body project.

Wasn’t specifically addressing what you have done. There are weak spots in this original design, Packard terminals used in the charge path at the bulkhead connector being the weakest link by far. Then again nothing about these cars were designed to still be around 50+ years later. BtW, When I...

By far, the most “pushed” by-pass option I see is a “under-hood” or “engine compartment” straight alternator to battery add-on by-pass using large diameter cables. No other changes to the stock charging system. Promoted as removing current stress from all stock wiring and connections. With or...

Heat is the result of current and resistance. If you maintain your current and resistance below their accepted design limits for this system, there won’t be any heat. You describe wires melting, as original, 12 ga charging system wiring melting is an indication of excessive current for that...

Is that a fact? What back-up do for have a statement like that? With correctly maintained connections, correct load placement, and operated within its design limits, ammeters and/or their connections don’t fail. Voltmeters alone don’t tell the whole story, may as well run a charge/no-charge...

Are you sure that aftermarket wiring has not by-passed the ammeter altogether or has been by-passed in the engine compartment? Wired and loaded correctly, fully charged battery, there should be little to no current flowing through the ammeter while the engine is running. What are you expecting...

Need to ground the switch mounting to have the wipers park, switch plate grounds through its mounting screws normally.

While FSMs are the most complete and accurate source of technical information for these cars, they still contain some flaws and omissions. Some diagrams have that labeling reversed. Dark blue with a trace is in fact ignition 1, power in the run only position. Brown is ignition 2, the ballast...

Continuity tests do not work well with that Molex application, need to do voltage drop test across those pins while under load, current flowing.

These concerns explained.

Are you sure you are in ACC position on the switch, it’s counter clock-wise from the lock position for ACC only. Should have continuity between the black and red wires. Agreed, that chart is wrong in regards to Ign 1 and Ign 2, Ign1 is dark blue, Ign 2 is brown technically.

Try jumping the dimmer switch plug terminals I & R together, see if you have battery volage at the inboard fuse clip with the lights on.

The power to the dimmer comes in to dimmer terminal I from the headlight switch (terminal R) on a 18ga black with yellow tracer (Circuit id L6A-18BL/Y*). Will have full line/battery voltage but only with the switch in park or headlights position. Have you verified this power is present with the...

Did you check voltages at the headlight and dimmer rheostat? Check for 12v at terminal R of the headlight switch (black with yellow tracer) with the switch on, (park or headlights). Check for this power at the dimmer rheostat (black with yellow tracer). Then you should have variable voltage at...

Dash light dimmer.

The 5 amp fuse is the dash illumination circuit. Fed from the headlight switch via the dimmer, turn on your headlights if you want to see voltage there. If the dash lights are not working with the lights on, will need to troubleshoot the dimmer or headlight switch

Some follow up detailed info for this older thread about that under-hood by-pass those who promote it don’t seem to want to talk about.