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Check and clean the grounds points and inspect the cables themselves. Most engines have 2 grounding points.

That did used to be the spec for road car oil filters. If 21 is all you can get it should be OK. Realistically if something is wrong and you get metal flakes the oil filter does not save the motor. Just use what you can get.

The play is not normal. Judging by your pic something is off centre as well.

Never heard of one. You will probably have to get one made how you want it. The E body shifter handle seems quite short.

You could try a mild acid solution for an hour or two. I stick the screws or bolts I want to paint in to a carboard box to stand them up until they dry.

Sorry I don't know anything about the 2 speed. It may pay to start another thread?

That is a 2 speed motor - this thread has been all about 3 speed motors.

If you have a heater you could tap in to the hot water "out" of the engine. Those sensors work better if they are in water flow - not a dead end. A dead end can trap an air bubble and the sensor may not work very well.

No expert - they look like 273 rockers.

For what it's worth I do all valve lash adjustments, leak down tests etc COLD were possible. I got tired of burning the crap out of myself.

I am quite sure about my calculated figures for your intake valve closing point. I have used Wallace Racing calculators and they are good - but I have your static/dynamic numbers at a bit higher. However this difference will not matter to most folks. If your engine runs well and makes reasonable...

That camshaft has 4 degrees of advance ground in to it by Lunati. This is more than enough advance. Generally the intake centreline given by the cam grinder is pretty close for 95% of engines. Provided you have selected the right combination of parts. Xcudame is right degreeing the cam is...

Carburettor. You can drill small holes in the primary throttle butterfly blades to allow you to close them. Set the transfer slot to 20 thousands and check your curb idle speed. If too slow you would go up a size on the drilled hole. Keep the transfer slot at 20 thou each time. Start at 1/16...

I used your numbers but the intake valve closing one is probably not correct. Most street cams close the valve at 50 to 70 ABDC The dynamic is very high - that is near race engine territory. Static 10.38 Dynamic 9.58

I have not seen a calculation that will tell you what reading you will get on a compression gauge. Were did you get that from? In any case static and dynamic compression are expressed as ratios. The static is theoretical as it measures the swept and un-swept volume of the engine from TDC to BDC...

My November 1970 built car (a 1971) has the style like the first pic in post #2. I remember the allen head fastener.

Nice work. Thanks Steve

My car has the original tubes. It is the same as cuda joe posted in #8. Short tube in engine bay bracketed at the top to the inner fender and a clip down on the chassis rail - down to the toe board area were the hose has a rubber joiner - then back to the vapor separator. This line runs...

I would keep it. It is a good choice IMO. Edelbrock has very good tuning manuals and kits. The idle, transition, rods and primary main jets can be run lean so the plugs stay clean. This also gives you the best fuel economy. Get your ignition and timing right as this will influence the AFR...

Light throttle cruise can be 14 to even 15.5 - the engine is not under much load. This is were the engine is a lot of the time and you will get sooty black spark plugs with 13.3