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1970 Cuda

cudanutjim

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Nov 12, 2011
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I put in a new fuel sending unit. Now it's very inaccurate. Good ground. It worked perfect before but it leaked around the fuel tube coming through the top because of a broken weld. It now has about 8 gallons left when it reads empty. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
If it is a new sending unit, I would take it out and return it. If you can't do that, and you can have it re welded or just buy another one. Should be between $40-$80.00 depending on who you get it through.
 
Sounds like you got a cheap Chinese sending unit.
 
I'd take the original to a radiator and gas tank repair shop and have it fixed. If you do it carefully you can open up the repops and recalibrate them.
 
Actually I threw the original one away. Duh! The new one is from Summit Racing. Must be Chinese or maybe the float has a hole in it
 
I finally got a chance to remove my new sending unit. According to a chart I found , empty should be 73 ohms and full should be 10 ohms. I'm reading 75.5 ohms low and 8 ohms full. I measured the difference between 73 and 75.5 ohms and its about 1/4". Does anyone have a clue on whether this should cause my gauge to be so inaccurate? I thought of bending the float arm but I don't want to ruin it if I need to send it back. B.T.W. the float has NO leak.
 
I had a problem similar on another vehicle I own,that the temperature gage was reading Hot,so,I experimented with resistors,till the gage matched the actual temp.
 
Based on your readings, your new sender would just peg the gauge a bit in each direction because it has a greater dynamic range from empty to full than the old one, i.e. at 8 ohms your fuel gauge should read more than full, and you would go to empty a slight bit faster than you did before, but not by much and past empty by a little bit at 75.5 ohms.

When you measure the resistance with the ohm meter, watch how it changes as the arm moves. You may have a problem where the resistance is not linear, i.e. it goes very quickly from 8 ohms up to 60 ohms or more, then only slowly from there. Look for nice, gradual change in resistance, especially from the 8 ohm side. If it isn't gradual, the internal potentiometer that varies the resistance is poor quality and nothing you can do there - it is a poor quality unit.

I don't know enough about these to say that at the 8 ohm minimum it could have put through enough current to hurt your gauge versus 10 ohms minimum of the old sender. Perhaps someone else knows that one but I suspect these old gauges were meant to take large tolerance swings and that is not your problem.
 
How's your ground? The factory used that goofy clip dealie, but I like to run a wire right to the body, clamped to the sender tube with a small hose clamp, around a split piece of fuel line.
 
Bending the float arm will not help you but my buddy and I calibrated one of these repops by removing the side cover on the potentiometer and bending the arm that makes contact with it. My buddy is like a surgeon when it comes to these things though so you have to do this very carefully but it worked.
 
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