73 Challenger Battery Relocation

[cudadreamer]

Hi Guy`s,
I bought and want to install a Summit Battery Relocation Kit (Sum-G1231-K)and Battery Disconnect Switch(Sum-G1432).Directions that came with kit kinda suck.I did some surfing and boy there are so many ideas people have (not mopar people)on how too do it.I need how to wire both(Battery and Switch)and where to run cables(inside or outside).At this time I don`t want to kill altenator.This is a street car .I do all work on car myself ,but this is a little different and out of my zone.Pictures of mounted Battery Box and Switch location options would be Awesome!
Heres a little about car.
360 426ci stroker,worked Eddy heads, Tunnel Ram with 2- 650 Holleys,727,8 3/4 4.30 Gear.Super Stock 3600 Leaf Springs.

Nevada Car.


Pictures of your set up would be Greatly Appreciated
Thanks
Alan​

 

[TEELAK]

Doin the same thing ,under construction ill send u pictures with end result.

 

[challenger6pak]

Put it on the passenger side behind the rear wheel house to compensate for the engine torque twist. I would run the wiring inside on the passengers side since it is a street car. You don't want any road debris to catch your wiring. I always run a circuit breaker on the positive side at the battery since that much cable is going through the car. This way you don't have to see smoking carpet to know to flip the kill switch. A must, is to run extra ground wires in the car, especially off the engine. The engine will need a large ground strap to replace the loss of the battery being connected directly to it. I normally cut the battery terminal off. Then I put a loop on the cable. Then bolt it to the cars frame. If your cable is not long enough to do so, get a longer one. The battery must ground to the frame in the rear of the car and the engine must ground to the frame in the front of the car. If you are running a factory voltage regulator, make sure it is grounded to the engine with a ground strap. All should work fine when you are done.

 

[Bill]

Great info! (keep in mind I am a novice at this) I will be doing the same in a few months on my Challenger project. My motor guy recommended using welders cable for the battery connections. It is more supple / flexible than wire you usually get at an auto parts store and it cost less $$. Local welding supply shop sells it by the foot. Don't know for sure yet but though I would throw the idea out there. I was thinking about running ether metal or plastic electrical conduit from the trunk through the interior of the car and out the firewall to get to the engine area to power up my ISIS electrical system and motor components.

 

[Bill]

I like the ckt. breaker idea. Can you forward a link to where something like that can be purchased and what amperage should we use?

 

[challenger6pak]

Monster Cable has them. Monster is at Best Buy, and other outlets. You could also use a blade type fuse holder. The breaker goes up to 150A. The fuses can go as high as 200A. Size depends on what you are running in the car. Most of the cars I run these in have new hemis with modern wiring to run the charging system and all modern gauges and accessories. You want amperage that is above what you use but not too far above what you use. 100A to 150A is fine for most cars.

I have used the welding wire and it works well. As long as you put your wire in a non-traffic area in the car, you should not need conduit.

 

[Bill]

Monster Cable has them. Monster is at Best Buy, and other outlets. You could also use a blade type fuse holder. The breaker goes up to 150A. The fuses can go as high as 200A. Size depends on what you are running in the car. Most of the cars I run these in have new hemis with modern wiring to run the charging system and all modern gauges and accessories. You want amperage that is above what you use but not too far above what you use. 100A to 150A is fine for most cars.

I have used the welding wire and it works well. As long as you put your wire in a non-traffic area in the car, you should not need conduit.

More great info. I can understand not needing the conduit if the cable is protected and in a non-traffic area.
Great stuff.
Thanks!

 

[challenger6pak]

You are welcome. I mentioned this thread to a buddy who works in the electronics field. He has had some of the newer circuit breakers stick. His point is that a fuse either works or it doesn't. Seems to be good advice.