So I found a 1973 Cuda about a year ago, it was missing the original engine and transmission. The 340 was removed and replaced with a 383. The 383 in it was blown and not worth rebuilding (block was repaired/welded poorly). It came with a long block assembly that was told was rebuilt, but that was left outside uncovered for almost 10 years with the car. Fender tag was missing and the car had been painted black (poorly). The original color was Hemi orange (I think). Looking at it except for engine, transmission and paint it was somewhat unmolested and complete. Typical things for a Northeast car, floors, quarters and around the white vinyl top was rotten. No obvious crash damage and front frame rails looked and felt solid. All the interior and trim was there, everything down to the trim rings on the rally wheels. Dash pad was cracked pretty badly but the white vinyl seats where surprising intact. It also is a Cuda (VIN starts with BS). So I did the right thing, over paid for it and towed it home. I had just finished a Factory Five kit car and sold it so I was in the market for a new project. It's been a year now working on it when I can. I did take a lot of pictures while disassembling it, my younger son has also been working on it as well. Here is what it looked like when we picked it up. (yes the rear wing was a hack add on)
73 Cuda rust bucket, too far gone, but why not.
- Thread starter Quiny
- Start date
doubleyellow
Well-Known Member
Great color combo. Big project (they all are), but will be sweet when done.
To date we have replaced the entire rear clip (one piece unit from Roseville Moparts) which included the rear frame rails, trunk floor, rear crossmember, shock support, exhaust hangers, etc.. It is meant for a Challenger but it was much faster and cheaper than replacing each component individually. All I need to do is cut out the fuel filler hole. Both inner and outer wheel wells have been replaced. Inner and outer rockers, door supports and a pillars. Upper and lower cowl and all floors. I still need to replace the drip rails and roof skin. I have had the rear quarters on and clecoed in place for fitting but will what till I have all the parts I need to put the rear quarter windows together. (a lot easier with the quarter panel off). I did a lot of bracing before disassembly but discovered the car had been hit really hard and was out of square. Out came the tape measure and factory specs. I think I have everything +/- 1/16th. Once I pulled the carpet out the big buckle in the floor was a dead give away at how hard it was hit (I will attach a pic). The rot on this car was overwhelming, also every cavity in this car was full to the brim with acorns and mouse carcasses. Once everything was disassembled I had the remains sandblasted. Doors hood and trunk lid where in very good condition. I also found the trunk full of new parts that were purchased buy the previous owner when he thought he would restore it. Looks like he wanted to make a 1970 clone. I sold off the old engines, 727 tranny, 70 taillights and anything else I wasn't going to use. Since this will never be a numbers matching rebuild and it's not a 70 or 71 it seems like the perfect candidate for a restomod.
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So we are mostly reassembling sheetmetal these days. I found a Lenco spot welder on Facebook marketplace, it has made assembly much easier. I was a bit pessimistic about it at first since it doesn't require an electrode on both sides of the parts and it makes 2 spot welds simultaneously. It's a beast, I had to put a 50amp 240volt outlet in my shop. After a lot of testing it works very well and simulates a factory spot-weld nicely. I did find if the 2 pieces aren't in perfect contact and very clean instead of a perfect spot-weld you get a small explosion and a hole that needs to be mig welded back together, either way you get a good spot-weld or a hole for a plug weld. I did take a lot of pictures and marked and bagged everything. I do have one bolt on bracket that I cant seem to remember where it came from. I did take a picture of it on the car but I should have taken a wider shot. I am attaching a pic of the part and when it was on the car, anyone recognize it?
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gzig5
Well-Known Member
Gee, that sounds and looks familiar. Must be something about 73's. Mine was also complete inside but a real mess underneath the crappy paint.
It was T-boned and needed the rockers and inner/outer A-pillers, as well as the kinks removed from the roof and dash/cowl. It's a long journey, but worth the trip.
It was T-boned and needed the rockers and inner/outer A-pillers, as well as the kinks removed from the roof and dash/cowl. It's a long journey, but worth the trip.
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SFEbody
Well-Known Member
MIne was a 70 and just as rusty. Since I am restomod mine, it didnt matter. I did floors, roof, A pillars, quarters trunk and floor pans.... its ready for paint and i am geeked!
Thanks, I know your not supposed to use wood but it was available and I don't see myself building another e body any time soon. It's a small garage and climate controlled so there isn't much movement in the wood.
heminut
Well-Known Member
Aren't those the reinforcement brackets for the Go Wing that mount on the underside of the trunk lid?
Yes, they were in a pile of unused parts in the trunk. Thank you
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I haven't seen any but to admit, I've not really looked hard. I have a stud welder for dent pulling that I would think would work. If I can't find any, I might try turning some up on the lathe and make a tip for the welder. I would think the studs may need to be copper flashed?
I bought the US Car Tool frame connectors from AMD during one of their sales. I cant imagine installing these on the ground. I have spent over 12 hours scribing these to the new floorboards and sanding away the e coat to weld them. I figure I still have at least another 8 hours welding them in place. I really wish I had the car on a rotisserie it would have been much easier. All said though its a pretty good product, its cut pretty close to the stock floorboards. I can honestly say I think I made the fit worse a couple of times while I was trying to make the fit perfect. I'm exhausted of working over my head. I figure I will not need the torque box reinforcements since I am only putting a 5.7 L hemi in. Anyone else had any experience with these frame connectors? Thoughts on the torque boxes? Do I need both or is just the frame connectors enough?
rklein71
Well-Known Member
I installed the same connectors. Some might disagree, but I did 3/4 inch weld every few inches. Welding the entire way is overkill, IMO.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I would agree with that statement. Plenty strong for anything on the street. Probably want to hit it with some seam sealer to keep water out. Remember, most of the regular frame connectors like from Hotchkis only attach at the front and back.
rklein71
Well-Known Member
I drilled a couple of weep holes to allow any water to drain out quickly
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Looks like the two of you are rowing the same boat. Fish HA!
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