gran coupe john
Well-Known Member
Wanting to get the Windshield & Back window installed. Would it be best to do it myself? If so, what is the process. Was quoted a large amount to have them installed.
Back window & Windshield install prices?
- Thread starter gran coupe john
- Start date
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Often when buying new glass, the cost of installation is included. Probably because the seller makes a decent profit selling you the glass. If you already have the glass, installing it yourself is a good option, if you want to save a few bucks. Also, if you're a perfectionist (I think I may suffer from this) you have the opportunity to get it as perfect as you want.
If you want to just pay someone to install it, call around and get some estimates. Let them know you're restoring a vintage muscle car. I bet you'll find someone interested in working on your classic car, and offer you a lower number. Make it clear they're just installing the glass, because (I presume) you'll be installing the trim. Paying cash will open some doors, too.
It's pretty easy. I've installed a few, myself, using a black butyl product that comes wound in a flat spool, and looks like a rope about 3/8 thick. Some may choose to use a urethane goo from a caulking gun. But I think the butyl rubber is easier to work with. One windshield, I even did twice, because I wasn't happy with the result. That said, its been a long while since I've done one.
As far as tips, gosh, I would not know where to begin, except go searching for some youtube videos. After watching a handful of ones, perhaps specifically mopar muscle-related, you'll get an idea of the process, and how easy it is. Look for video specifically discussing the butyl rubber types of install, if that's what you're using.
While this can be done with one person, having two is the way to go. You can pick up some suction cup lifters at harbor freight. Roll the windows down, so the two of you can reach inside and better control placement of the windshield.
Install the trim clips, first. I seem to recall guides at the bottom, where the glass rests against. But on the first car I did, these were not in place. I've used pieces of wood trim, more than once, allowing me to rest the glass on the wood (without scratching the paint) and tilting the glass into place.
Dry fit the glass, so you get an idea of where to place the sealer bead. You want it to be hidden by the chrome trim. Placing it too far away from the edge of the glass may leave some of it exposed after the chrome trim is installed. The dry fit stage is really important to test placement. Use a sharpie to make some marks on the body and glass, for alignment on final install. Use masking tape to write on painted surfaces. Also, marks will help you place the butyl rope in the right place.
Then lay down the butyl rope, drop in the glass, and press to seal. Inspect the bead. Looking through the glass, confirm there is a good seal. The butyl rubber gets darker when stuck to the glass. You can press lesser areas more firmly to make a better seal.
Finally, snap the trim into the clips.
If you screw it up, the butyl rope isn't that expensive, but removing the glass again to refit is a pain. In colder climates, the butyl is less tacky, which may be a good thing if you have to make an adjustment. But usually, once you lay the glass down, it ain't moving.
When shopping for videos, some are better than others. Bear in mind, some cars had glass installed within a rubber gasket. Many videos are showing the process to install using this gasket. But in your case, the E-Body windshield was installed using the butyl rope sealer, and it's a different. So keep your eyes pealed for those types of videos.
If you want to just pay someone to install it, call around and get some estimates. Let them know you're restoring a vintage muscle car. I bet you'll find someone interested in working on your classic car, and offer you a lower number. Make it clear they're just installing the glass, because (I presume) you'll be installing the trim. Paying cash will open some doors, too.
It's pretty easy. I've installed a few, myself, using a black butyl product that comes wound in a flat spool, and looks like a rope about 3/8 thick. Some may choose to use a urethane goo from a caulking gun. But I think the butyl rubber is easier to work with. One windshield, I even did twice, because I wasn't happy with the result. That said, its been a long while since I've done one.
As far as tips, gosh, I would not know where to begin, except go searching for some youtube videos. After watching a handful of ones, perhaps specifically mopar muscle-related, you'll get an idea of the process, and how easy it is. Look for video specifically discussing the butyl rubber types of install, if that's what you're using.
While this can be done with one person, having two is the way to go. You can pick up some suction cup lifters at harbor freight. Roll the windows down, so the two of you can reach inside and better control placement of the windshield.
Install the trim clips, first. I seem to recall guides at the bottom, where the glass rests against. But on the first car I did, these were not in place. I've used pieces of wood trim, more than once, allowing me to rest the glass on the wood (without scratching the paint) and tilting the glass into place.
Dry fit the glass, so you get an idea of where to place the sealer bead. You want it to be hidden by the chrome trim. Placing it too far away from the edge of the glass may leave some of it exposed after the chrome trim is installed. The dry fit stage is really important to test placement. Use a sharpie to make some marks on the body and glass, for alignment on final install. Use masking tape to write on painted surfaces. Also, marks will help you place the butyl rope in the right place.
Then lay down the butyl rope, drop in the glass, and press to seal. Inspect the bead. Looking through the glass, confirm there is a good seal. The butyl rubber gets darker when stuck to the glass. You can press lesser areas more firmly to make a better seal.
Finally, snap the trim into the clips.
If you screw it up, the butyl rope isn't that expensive, but removing the glass again to refit is a pain. In colder climates, the butyl is less tacky, which may be a good thing if you have to make an adjustment. But usually, once you lay the glass down, it ain't moving.
When shopping for videos, some are better than others. Bear in mind, some cars had glass installed within a rubber gasket. Many videos are showing the process to install using this gasket. But in your case, the E-Body windshield was installed using the butyl rope sealer, and it's a different. So keep your eyes pealed for those types of videos.
gran coupe john
Well-Known Member
Thanks pschlosser, great info. I will try this myself. Will get a friend to help.
gran coupe john
Well-Known Member
Oh where's a good place to get clips?
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Go google for them.
1971 barracuda windshield trim clip - Google Search
I've seen a number of restoration and aftermarket sites selling kits that contain all the clips and screws you need to install the trim. Roseville Moparts, eBay, Detroit Muscle, Jegs.
Hopefully, the screw holes are still present on your car. Sometimes, these get lost during bodywork and paint.
Even if you paid another to install your glass, they would not normally do the chrome trim for you, or know what they're doing well enough to do it well. You want the clips in place before the glass goes in.
1971 barracuda windshield trim clip - Google Search
I've seen a number of restoration and aftermarket sites selling kits that contain all the clips and screws you need to install the trim. Roseville Moparts, eBay, Detroit Muscle, Jegs.
Hopefully, the screw holes are still present on your car. Sometimes, these get lost during bodywork and paint.
Even if you paid another to install your glass, they would not normally do the chrome trim for you, or know what they're doing well enough to do it well. You want the clips in place before the glass goes in.
moparlee
Well-Known Member
Does your glass channels have studs or holes for the clip screws? I believe in '70 there are holes for the clip screws and in '71 they went to a stud mounted clip. The clips are different.
gran coupe john
Well-Known Member
They are stud
Decided to do myself. Clips and butyl is not that expensive. Detroit Muscle say 5/16 is the correct butyl. Said 3/8 will not let the trim fit correctly.? For what someone wants to do it. I figure I will do it slowly, and correctly.
Decided to do myself. Clips and butyl is not that expensive. Detroit Muscle say 5/16 is the correct butyl. Said 3/8 will not let the trim fit correctly.? For what someone wants to do it. I figure I will do it slowly, and correctly.
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Sorry, that was a guess.
gran coupe john
Well-Known Member
I really appreciate your knowledge!! Most the car is 1/16 off lol
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
That's all? Dude, I've helped people bring back sheetmetal that was inches off! I'm pleased you found a supplier that knew the correct answers.
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