Best bang for buck suspension upgrade kit?

[marklfarkl]

Just got myself a 72 Challenger. The stock suspension makes feels a bit loose and makes creaking and rattling sounds. Seems like the sky is the limit on all the suspension mods that can be done on these great machines. I'm looking to do enough work to make it feel like new again. A little tighter than stock is fine. I found this kit from firmfeel.com. Will it do the trick? Any other suggestions?

 

[moparleo]

Go with subframe connectors to tighten the whole car. How far you go with the rest depends on your budget. The ideal would be a RMS front and rear suspension.

 

[Adam]

Yes. New front end suspension bushings, I like the firmness and longevity of urethane, but some prefer rubber. Also, new torsion bars, since the originals are probably too small, too soft, and you gotta take em out to do the lower control arm bushings anyway.

These cars originally had bias ply tires; modern radials will quickly expose any suspension deficiencies.

These mods are not very difficult to do, with a little research. I have done it at home in my garage, just do one side at a time. Dive in, you will not regret it.

I also recommend LCA stiffening plates (http://arengineering.com/products/lca-box-plate-kits-bea-body-cars/)

Also, because Chrysler always has too much power steering assist in my opinion: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/beep/PUMP_IT_DOWN-re-v1.4.pdf

 

[68bigblock]

The last two front end kits I got were from PST, good people to deal with the one issue I had was taken care of with no cost to me

 

[marklfarkl]

Go with subframe connectors to tighten the whole car. How far you go with the rest depends on your budget. The ideal would be a RMS front and rear suspension.

Wow, RMS has really nice kits! $7k for both front and rear is out of my budget range.

Yes. New front end suspension bushings, I like the firmness and longevity of urethane, but some prefer rubber. Also, new torsion bars, since the originals are probably too small, too soft, and you gotta take em out to do the lower control arm bushings anyway.

These cars originally had bias ply tires; modern radials will quickly expose any suspension deficiencies.

These mods are not very difficult to do, with a little research. I have done it at home in my garage, just do one side at a time. Dive in, you will not regret it.

I also recommend LCA stiffening plates (http://arengineering.com/products/lca-box-plate-kits-bea-body-cars/)

Also, because Chrysler always has too much power steering assist in my opinion: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/beep/PUMP_IT_DOWN-re-v1.4.pdf

I like the idea of going with new torsion bars. Probably will go with urethane bushings. I'm pretty comfortable with a wrench but have never upgraded a suspension. Did a little searching on youtube and found this video that makes it look pretty simple. This guy is pretty funny as well...

[video]https://youtu.be/LlCVoiW09Xk[/video]


What do the LCA stiffening plates help improve? Love the power assist mod! Will do that for sure!

The last two front end kits I got were from PST, good people to deal with the one issue I had was taken care of with no cost to me

Thanks for the PST link. It looks like they have lots of good stuff!

 

[Adam]

The LCA,s are plenty strong handling the up and down forces, but can flex a little with fore and aft movement. The stiffening plate ties the two sides together and makes them rock solid. Do an internet search, there are lots of articles...

You will have the LCA,s off for the suspension rebuild anyway, and it's a cheap upgrade. Just dont pinch & weld the front of the LCA together so that the torsion bar socket cant move..

 

[marklfarkl]

The LCA,s are plenty strong handling the up and down forces, but can flex a little with fore and aft movement. The stiffening plate ties the two sides together and makes them rock solid. Do an internet search, there are lots of articles...

You will have the LCA,s off for the suspension rebuild anyway, and it's a cheap upgrade. Just dont pinch & weld the front of the LCA together so that the torsion bar socket cant move..

Thanks for the explanation. Now I just need to teach myself how to weld. :icon_winkle:

 

[Chryco Psycho]

My pick is Hotchkiss upgraded parts for the stock suspension ,this can dramatically improve the handling without changing the engineering which for the day was really good
RMS is probably the best total redisgn but limits turning radius with the front rack & entirely changes the whole suspension system .

 

[marklfarkl]

My pick is Hotchkiss upgraded parts for the stock suspension ,this can dramatically improve the handling without changing the engineering which for the day was really good
RMS is probably the best total redisgn but limits turning radius with the front rack & entirely changes the whole suspension system .

Thanks for the tip. I really do like the idea of upgrading the stock suspension instead of completing changing it out. Will probably go with this Hotchkis setup when I get the funds.

 

[Adam]

Thanks for the tip. I really do like the idea of upgrading the stock suspension instead of completing changing it out. Will probably go with this Hotchkis setup when I get the funds.

I read the installation instructions. It looks like that set up still uses the factory lower control arms, so they must be pretty good... $3000+ seems like a lot to me for what you get in that kit.

Also, lots of reviews say that Hotchkis rear springs lower the car, so be sure what you want. IMO Challengers sit a little low in back. Do a search on "ESPO + 1 inch" leaf springs; they are a good buy, unlike Mopar XHD springs where you only say "Goodbye" to your money.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

agree that the Mopar springs are a waste of $$ . you can buy some of the componenets from Hotchkiss as funds allow without buying the whole kit

 

[chrisperanio]

gerstsuspentions.com

need i say more

 

[carbuilder]

Have a 1970 Cuda 440 6 pack 4 speed car. Changes made were going from 124 lb spring rate front torsion bars to 242 Lb, tied the stub frames together, gas shocks, & added OEM rear sway bar all with urethane bushings. Running BF good rich TA's 235 front, 245/60 R15 rear tires. It handles just like a small block.

 

[rklein71]

I bought some QA1 tubular upper control arms, although my car is not together yet. They claim to have more camber and caster adjustment range for better handling, and they don't break the bank. I welded on the LCA stiffening plates as well.

 

[michael]

Rebuilt front end with PST poly.1.03 torsion bars 1" plus espo rear leafs 20:1 firm feel box and good gas shocks..drives REALLY good.

 

[Litchkar]

My 71 has tubular UCA's when I got it. I added a Firm Feel Stage 3 power steering box while the motor was out. The difference is huge! Steers like a modern car, steering wheel is tight and you can feel the road, no longer like driving a boat.

 

[340challconvert]

Adding a Mopar Tuff wheel w a smaller diameter then stock also makes a very slight difference in how the steering feels; a little "less" wheel to turn when steering.

 

[michael]

I had a tuff wheel for a short period of time besides not being correct for any e body for my height it blocked my view of my gauges, had to duck my head to read them, very annoying

 

[Mopar Mitch]

I had a tuff wheel for a short period of time besides not being correct for any e body for my height it blocked my view of my gauges, had to duck my head to read them, very annoying

The factory Tuff steering wheel is too slippery... there are recent aftermarket lookalikes that are less slippery.... in both 15" and 14" diameter (factory is 15"... too large, IMO). I've eventually gone to a smaller diamter steering wheel 11.5" Superior deep dish (~5" deep)... helps quicken the steering faster (plus having a T/A ps gear box with the long P/I arms). The smaller diameter steering wheel does partially block my dash view, but... you get used to it... eventually, I'd like to make a complete custom dash/gauge setup (no need for a clock!)... and have a tilt column... that would be nice so to see all dash unobstructed.... just $$$$ for the tilt column (not that high of a priority)!