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Challenger Door Install

BuckeyeCuda

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Does anyone have advise on the best way to install doors on a 71 Challenger? We had to remove them for our body shop to place new skins on the rusted doors and the shop went out of business soon after we got the doors back. Trying to align the doors to allow for smooth installation of the bolts and to ensure that they align to close is a real ***** with these heavy doors. There must be a better way to do this, and so I am soliciting ideas from you all...

Thanks,

Larry in Akron
 

One of few

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Harbor Freight sells door holders that attach to a floor Jack - I’ve never tried one, but I’ve looked at them. They look sturdy enough to hold that heavy door.
 

Steve340

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To fit the door is a two man job best attempted with the fender removed.
I cannot remember exactly but I recall using a floor jack and a block of wood to help support the door getting the bolts in.
Also when I pit mine back on the glass etc was removed.
 

moparleo

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Definitely a two man job.
Tape the door and fender edges, get a piece of carpet/heavy cardboard and a floor jack.
Follow the factory installation procedure I have linked for you.
Take your time.
It is easiest if the hinges are mounted to the body first.
MoparLeo's Parts Remanufactured Door Hinge Service
moparleo@hotmail.com
 

Attachments

  • E-BODY-DOOR-HINGE-INSTALL-INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
    548.1 KB · Views: 144
  • DOOR ALIGNMENT 1.pdf
    180.8 KB · Views: 151
  • ALL DOOR INSTALLATION TIPS.pdf
    5.5 MB · Views: 129
Last edited:

MerlinsMopars

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I used my hoist. 1 man job. I suggest that you take the upper/inner support brace off, align bottom and rear without the striker. Make sure that you have the windows in because it makes a difference and will sag if you don't. It's time consuming to get the fit right. Tape all edges so you don't nick any of them. 2 layers is better than 1. After you mount the fenders, be careful when you open the door fully to assure the gap don't bind. 1/4-3/8" worked well for me.

IMG_20230303_130641170_HDR.jpg
 

MerlinsMopars

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Wanted to add that I did lift the door about a 1/2" above the body line when the hinges were snug but movable. Took about 4 hrs each door till I was happy but the end result was very satisfying.
Good luck.
 

cuda joe

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yes adjusting them is a ***** best to have the fenders off you can use a 2x4 2 foot long on a floor jack to move the door up work to get a good and even gap on the rocker then work on the gap to the quarter have the glass installed you want the full weight of the door because it will sag also the weather stripping needs to be installed. after the door is adjusted then adjust the glass
 

terrywalker

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@MerlinsMopars . What is the upper/inner support brace you mention in your post? "I used my hoist. 1 man job. I suggest that you take the upper/inner support brace off,". I have 3 Challenger doors here that I'm working on and I'm wondering what you were referring to. Thank you for clarification.
Terry W.
 

MerlinsMopars

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@MerlinsMopars . What is the upper/inner support brace you mention in your post? "I used my hoist. 1 man job. I suggest that you take the upper/inner support brace off,". I have 3 Challenger doors here that I'm working on and I'm wondering what you were referring to. Thank you for clarification.
Terry W.
The inner fender brace to door post at the top of the inside of the fender. It gets in the way when you set the fenders.
 
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