Clutch Adjust Advice

[doubleyellow]

Sanity check on clutch pedal adjustment:

- 5/32 gap between the metal and rubber washer on the adjustment rod?
- Clutch pedal stands at least 1" higher than brake pedal at rest. Is this the normal height difference?
- The so-called "lock-nut" spun freely on the threaded rod. I took it off, crimped the ends a bit, and then added locktite. Should I have just replaced the nut? or it will stay in place due to the spring pre-load.
- I am able to shift through all the gears with the engine off, without engaging clutch pedal. I thought I needed to push the clutch pedal in order to shift through the gears. Please advise if I adjusted the clutch properly.

Tranny rebuilt by Brewers and all other components new...

Drivetrain was a mess when I got the car 35 years ago, so don't have the knowledge on proper tranny adjustments.

Thanks

 

[704406]

Do you have a service manual? The clutch adjustment is measured at the clutch pedal not at the lower linkage. It's about 1"- 1&1/2" of free play at the top.
Yes the clutch pedal is always higher than the brake pedal.
Yes you can shift the trans with the clutch engaged and the engine not running.
The adjuster nut fits into the heavy washer, and the heavy washer has a tapered side, this helps to lock the nut as the pedal is depressed, clamping the slots of the nut to the adjuster rod. I've never had one loosen off.
Finally, what type of clutch are you running? If it's a diaphram type did you remove the very large spring under the dash? If you are running the 3 finger old school pressure plate you can leave the large spring in place.
Hope this answers your questions, I can look up the adjustment in the service manual if you would like that info, just let me know.

 

[Daves69]

^^^^^ This.
The taper in the washer ID should help close up the "flex type" nut into the flat with pedal use. If it's failing to lock for you (and some can on occasion), I'd recommend the addition of a jam nut to lock down final adjustment.
As you adjust, try not to bottom the plate fingers into the disc. You don't want to bend/distort them.

You may find a free download SM here...…….
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

 

[doubleyellow]

Thanks guys. I do have the SM and it says 5/32" gap, which I think is what I show in the picture, but asking for final confirmation.

Dave, do you mean pressure plate fingers into the clutch disc? So I should also take of the inspection cover and confirm that the plate fingers have no contact to the clutch disk if I have the correct pedal adjustment?

 

[Daves69]

Dave, do you mean pressure plate fingers into the clutch disc? ...

Yes. I myself, adjust into the needed plate / disc clearance.
You just don't want to be landing the any finger backsides on the disc hub or springs due to over adjustment when you push the pedal. I've never run a diaphragm set BTW, just B&B sets.

So I should also take of the inspection cover and confirm that the plate fingers have no contact to the clutch disk if I have the correct pedal adjustment?

I doubt you'll be able to even see anything that way. But then too, it's probably the better way set actual clearance with a feeler gauge. I believe the MP manual recommends .060" plate / disc clearance in 3 positions around the plate with full pedal travel on a B&B set.

 

[rarefish]

Thanks guys. I do have the SM and it says 5/32" gap, which I think is what I show in the picture, but asking for final confirmation.

Dave, do you mean pressure plate fingers into the clutch disc? So I should also take of the inspection cover and confirm that the plate fingers have no contact to the clutch disk if I have the correct pedal adjustment?

The 5/32" that is mention in the FSM is measured at the end of the clutch fork. So when you pull rearward on the clutch fork and create the gap between the rubber washer and the metal one, if you have 5/32" then you should be good to go. I did it this way also and I have the 1" to 1-1/2" free play at the top of the clutch pedal and also have the .060" clearance between the disc and pressure plate when the pedal is all the way to the floor.
The 5/32" free play at the end of the clutch fork assures you that the throw out bearing has the proper gap between its face and the pressure plate fingers when the clutch pedal is released.

 

[Rich G.]

I think you’re overthinking this. Just make sure you have some free play at the throw out bearing so it’s not riding on the fingers when the pedal is released and you’re good to go.

 

[doubleyellow]

Will do

 

[axxmann]

Do you have a service manual? The clutch adjustment is measured at the clutch pedal not at the lower linkage. It's about 1"- 1&1/2" of free play at the top.
Yes the clutch pedal is always higher than the brake pedal.
Yes you can shift the trans with the clutch engaged and the engine not running.
The adjuster nut fits into the heavy washer, and the heavy washer has a tapered side, this helps to lock the nut as the pedal is depressed, clamping the slots of the nut to the adjuster rod. I've never had one loosen off.
Finally, what type of clutch are you running? If it's a diaphram type did you remove the very large spring under the dash? If you are running the 3 finger old school pressure plate you can leave the large spring in place.
Hope this answers your questions, I can look up the adjustment in the service manual if you would like that info, just let me know.

I too have big time noise in my clutch can you please tell me more about removing the large spring under the dash on the clutch pedal., please

 

[rarefish]

I too have big time noise in my clutch can you please tell me more about removing the large spring under the dash on the clutch pedal., please

If you are changing from 3 finger Borg & Beck style pressure plate to the diaphragm style pressure plate, then it is recommend that you remove to "overcenter spring" from the clutch pedal linkage under the dash.