terraformer
Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2013
- Messages
- 9
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So, let me preface this first with I know this car (70 challenger, originally a 3 speed manual 318) is a basket case. I am doing what I can, when I can to rewind the bubba in his back yard BS but I am on a budget so I need to approach this as smartly as possible.
Questions:
What is the correct size of the clutch fork (tip to tip) on a 318/A833 4 speed?
Is it common on high horsepower cars to have the clutch linkage pop off of the z-bar?
Does anyone have experience with the McLeod 1400 series slave cylinder/throw out bearing and installing it on a e body? Did it go well, would you recommend it?
Back story:
I rebuilt the engine and was hoping that was the end of the crazy in the drive train but alas, it's not. I noticed when I did the engine (318 now stroked to 396 and making 425 HP (I can get more with new heads...)), the engine brackets were flipped side for side (yes, they bent them) resulting the in engine forward about 1/2" to an 1" and shifted to the passenger side about 1/5" at the center of the carb. I figured it was intentional because you would have to be a major screw up to put the engine brackets on the wrong side, and too much of the crazy in this car showed hints of red neck engineering brilliance (only saying that slightly sarcastically).
I couldn't figure out why they were doing what they did so I left it as is when I rebuilt the motor. The output shaft of the transmission was engaged far enough on the drive shaft I wasn't worried about it coming out and I figured the rationale for this would be discovered eventually. Alas, I believe I have discovered the reason. The clutch fork is 12" from linkage end to one tip of the fork. I do not know what pivot I have but the pivot point seems to be very close to the bolt holes where the pivot is mounted to the bell housing (I do not have a bell housing casting number as I can't see it). The clutch fork alignment with the z-bar would be impossible if the engine wasn't shifted to the passenger side. I don't know what bell housing I have but it likely came with the upgraded transmission (a '72/'73 DC A833 -- DC is 4232) and not the car. Someone who I am not sure if he is right said the tranny came from an Imperial, so assume bell housing and clutch fork also came with it.
So the problem is this was never a problem, even after I rebuilt the engine, until this spring. All of a sudden I can't drive more than a few miles without the linkage popping the retaining clip and falling away. I had it tethered so I still have it, but the problem is for a while I drove it with out any retaining clip and it was fine. Now it's impossible to keep connected. I have noticed it happens when I shift and the engine shutters as I come off the gas. Is this a common issue in cars with the correct bell housing, linkage, fork arrangements? Alternatively, although I can't see any cut in the installed motor mounts, do people have experience with the motor mounts shearing? I replaced one when I rebuilt the engine because it was sheared. I am wondering if this is too much HP for the rubber mounts. The mounts are either brand new or pretty new.
The reason I ask is motor mounts shearing or the linkage popping is an issue in high HP e-bodies, etc I may just opt to go to the hydraulic clutch instead. I have a center force clutch (came with the car) and 23 spline transmission so the 1400 mcleod should work. The cost of that and the master cylinder setup (sans bracket I need to manufacture) is about $750-800. Getting the right clutch fork and pivot is about $200 assuming the bell housing is correct. If it's not, that is $500+ to fix. It's another $200 for the motor brackets if I can find the right ones. I have steel motor mounts I can use if I have to but I have been avoiding them.
Anyhow, the above questions are what I need to help with in order to make the smart decision here. Either way I am going to fix this, but I don't want to go buying a new clutch fork, pivot (which requires removing the transmission and clutch), and possibly a new bell housing when I may still have some issues with the clutch linkage after I line everything back up. And yes, I plan on fixing the motor brackets, and possibly immediately if I go with the new fork/bellhousing. Basically I could use some of your collective experience on how best to fix this nightmare.
Questions:
What is the correct size of the clutch fork (tip to tip) on a 318/A833 4 speed?
Is it common on high horsepower cars to have the clutch linkage pop off of the z-bar?
Does anyone have experience with the McLeod 1400 series slave cylinder/throw out bearing and installing it on a e body? Did it go well, would you recommend it?
Back story:
I rebuilt the engine and was hoping that was the end of the crazy in the drive train but alas, it's not. I noticed when I did the engine (318 now stroked to 396 and making 425 HP (I can get more with new heads...)), the engine brackets were flipped side for side (yes, they bent them) resulting the in engine forward about 1/2" to an 1" and shifted to the passenger side about 1/5" at the center of the carb. I figured it was intentional because you would have to be a major screw up to put the engine brackets on the wrong side, and too much of the crazy in this car showed hints of red neck engineering brilliance (only saying that slightly sarcastically).
I couldn't figure out why they were doing what they did so I left it as is when I rebuilt the motor. The output shaft of the transmission was engaged far enough on the drive shaft I wasn't worried about it coming out and I figured the rationale for this would be discovered eventually. Alas, I believe I have discovered the reason. The clutch fork is 12" from linkage end to one tip of the fork. I do not know what pivot I have but the pivot point seems to be very close to the bolt holes where the pivot is mounted to the bell housing (I do not have a bell housing casting number as I can't see it). The clutch fork alignment with the z-bar would be impossible if the engine wasn't shifted to the passenger side. I don't know what bell housing I have but it likely came with the upgraded transmission (a '72/'73 DC A833 -- DC is 4232) and not the car. Someone who I am not sure if he is right said the tranny came from an Imperial, so assume bell housing and clutch fork also came with it.
So the problem is this was never a problem, even after I rebuilt the engine, until this spring. All of a sudden I can't drive more than a few miles without the linkage popping the retaining clip and falling away. I had it tethered so I still have it, but the problem is for a while I drove it with out any retaining clip and it was fine. Now it's impossible to keep connected. I have noticed it happens when I shift and the engine shutters as I come off the gas. Is this a common issue in cars with the correct bell housing, linkage, fork arrangements? Alternatively, although I can't see any cut in the installed motor mounts, do people have experience with the motor mounts shearing? I replaced one when I rebuilt the engine because it was sheared. I am wondering if this is too much HP for the rubber mounts. The mounts are either brand new or pretty new.
The reason I ask is motor mounts shearing or the linkage popping is an issue in high HP e-bodies, etc I may just opt to go to the hydraulic clutch instead. I have a center force clutch (came with the car) and 23 spline transmission so the 1400 mcleod should work. The cost of that and the master cylinder setup (sans bracket I need to manufacture) is about $750-800. Getting the right clutch fork and pivot is about $200 assuming the bell housing is correct. If it's not, that is $500+ to fix. It's another $200 for the motor brackets if I can find the right ones. I have steel motor mounts I can use if I have to but I have been avoiding them.
Anyhow, the above questions are what I need to help with in order to make the smart decision here. Either way I am going to fix this, but I don't want to go buying a new clutch fork, pivot (which requires removing the transmission and clutch), and possibly a new bell housing when I may still have some issues with the clutch linkage after I line everything back up. And yes, I plan on fixing the motor brackets, and possibly immediately if I go with the new fork/bellhousing. Basically I could use some of your collective experience on how best to fix this nightmare.
