Fuel pump leak

[7DCUDA383A]

Finally got the cuda back from shop but when driving home it had like a spray paint can rattle when giving it gas not at idle plus there was a huge fuel smell which looks like the pump because it had fuel on top of the pump , its in the garage right now to cold and too much snow to take it back , the rattle I read could be a couple things and what is a good pump nowadays , Im guessing the Carter.

 

[pschlosser]

the rattle I read could be a couple things and what is a good pump nowadays , Im guessing the Carter.

A little more background might be helpful, but I agree, for a mechanical fuel pump, just buying one new, a Carter would be my first choice. This often matches the OEM fuel pump pretty well.

What year, model, and engine are we talking about? Although, a picture of the wet fuel pump and engine bay would answer most questions.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

A little more background might be helpful, but I agree, for a mechanical fuel pump, just buying one new, a Carter would be my first choice. This often matches the OEM fuel pump pretty well.

What year, model, and engine are we talking about? Although, a picture of the wet fuel pump and engine bay would answer most questions.

It's a 1969 383 , not original, was a 318 from birth , the pump had fuel or moisture on top of the pump , I have dried it because the smell of fuel and its in my garage .

 

[pschlosser]

it seems odd, if the pump were leaking, there would be fuel on its top. below it, sure, but on top?

when it's warm enough for you, maybe start it and let it idle in the garage (with the door up, of course) and watch to see if you can figure out where the fuel is coming from.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

it seems odd, if the pump were leaking, there would be fuel on its top. below it, sure, but on top?

when it's warm enough for you, maybe start it and let it idle in the garage (with the door up, of course) and watch to see if you can figure out where the fuel is coming from.

Yeah I will , it just has a very strong fuel odor and I know it was wet on top , it has been sitting for a week now .

 

[Daves69]

Also, check your oil for fuel contamination.

FWIW, I went with a Carter 6903. Some claimed theirs produced too much pressure (8-9 psi) for Holley carbs.
Mine runs 5-1/2- 7 psi per a cheap Jegs gauge.

 

[Steve340]

The rattle could be timing/fuel mixture and you are hearing detonation/pinging.
If it is that you better sort that out quickly.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

The rattle could be timing/fuel mixture and you are hearing detonation/pinging.
If it is that you better sort that out quickly.

It's going back to the shop when the weather gets better , snow and salt everywhere in my area .

 

[pschlosser]

The rattle could be timing/fuel mixture and you are hearing detonation/pinging.
If it is that you better sort that out quickly.

It could be 50 other things, too. But detonation wouldn't cause a fuel leak. I see no reason to incite fear at this time.

 

[sixpactogo]

Fuel pumps have at least on hole on the upper part of the pump. Some have two holes but they are there to tell you the diaphragm has failed. The fuel will squirt out those holes instead of pumping fuel into the crank case. If the diaphragm is bad this is where the fuel will leak out. Here are a couple pics. The one on the left is a big block AC pump and the one on the right is a small block AC pump.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

Fuel pumps have at least on hole on the upper part of the pump. Some have two holes but they are there to tell you the diaphragm has failed. The fuel will squirt out those holes instead of pumping fuel into the crank case. If the diaphragm is bad this is where the fuel will leak out. Here are a couple pics. The one on the left is a big block AC pump and the one on the right is a small block AC pump.

View attachment 133747

View attachment 133748

Like I said I cleaned up the wet part which smelled like fuel but haven't started it since and is dry now . I need to put some sta-bil in but it's only a half tank I think and I know they recommend a full tank .

 

[pschlosser]

Like I said I cleaned up the wet part which smelled like fuel but haven't started it since and is dry now . I need to put some sta-bil in but it's only a half tank I think and I know they recommend a full tank .

You can put half the amount of sta-bil in, if that's your worry. But I do like to limit adding things when I'm at the pump, right before adding gas, so the whooshing in of fuel helps mix it.

When it gets warm enough for you, start the car briefly and inspect the fuel pump while it idles. If @sixpactogo is right, and I think he is, the car need only run for 30 seconds to confirm if fuel is weeping from those holes. If so, you've got a worn/failing fuel pump to replace.

 

[sixpactogo]

You can put half the amount of sta-bil in, if that's your worry. But I do like to limit adding things when I'm at the pump, right before adding gas, so the whooshing in of fuel helps mix it.

When it gets warm enough for you, start the car briefly and inspect the fuel pump while it idles. If @sixpactogo is right, and I think he is, the car need only run for 30 seconds to confirm if fuel is weeping from those holes. If so, you've got a worn/failing fuel pump to replace.

Truth is, you don't even need to start it. If the diaphragm is bad, it will squirt gas out those holes just by turning it over a few times. Pull the coil wire and hit the starter for a bit.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

Truth is, you don't even need to start it. If the diaphragm is bad, it will squirt gas out those holes just by turning it over a few times. Pull the coil wire and hit the starter for a bit.

Is it safe to drive about 4 miles back to shop if thats the leak .

 

[7DCUDA383A]

You can put half the amount of sta-bil in, if that's your worry. But I do like to limit adding things when I'm at the pump, right before adding gas, so the whooshing in of fuel helps mix it.

When it gets warm enough for you, start the car briefly and inspect the fuel pump while it idles. If @sixpactogo is right, and I think he is, the car need only run for 30 seconds to confirm if fuel is weeping from those holes. If so, you've got a worn/failing fuel pump to replace.

They are a cheap fix anyways , might as well replace the pump and check the pushrod . I had a Wieland oil pan installed but did not realize how deep it is , are these easy to replace , I think I asked this already .

 

[sixpactogo]

Is it safe to drive about 4 miles back to shop if thats the leak .

It depends how bad the leak is. It could fail completely and you will be walking. You still haven't verified if it is the pump. It could be a loose connection or cracked hose. If it were me, I would find the leak and fix it before driving it anywhere.

 

[pschlosser]

It depends how bad the leak is. It could fail completely and you will be walking. You still haven't verified if it is the pump. It could be a loose connection or cracked hose. If it were me, I would find the leak and fix it before driving it anywhere.

If you're not prepared to DIY and replace the fuel pump yourself (no shame in that) then if you tie a rag around the weep holes, so the fuel drips on to the ground, there is little risk of a fire or some other adverse effect. Especially over 4-miles to the repair shop.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

If you're not prepared to DIY and replace the fuel pump yourself (no shame in that) then if you tie a rag around the weep holes, so the fuel drips on to the ground, there is little risk of a fire or some other adverse effect. Especially over 4-miles to the repair shop.

Im in between fixing it myself and not because the rattle noise , it did not do that when I took it there , dont want them saying you messed with it so we cant fix it , it looks easy enough to do , do you need to crimp the line coming from the tank or no .

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Im in between fixing it myself and not because the rattle noise , it did not do that when I took it there , dont want them saying you messed with it so we cant fix it , it looks easy enough to do , do you need to crimp the line coming from the tank or no .

The metal line coming from the tank has a raised part on the end that you connect a rubber fuel line hose to and the other end goes into the fuel pump inlet. Both sides need a clamp, and most people simply use a worm clamp. If the shop you use fusses at you for fixing a fuel pump leak then I would not use them.

The pump is normally pretty easy to replace. On my Challenger, I pull the alternator to get unrestricted access to the pump. As mentioned above, you might also want to check the length of the fuel pump rod. Once the pump is out, there is a plug under it that you can remove. You can reach your finger into the fuel pump cavity and slide the rod out of the hole where the plug goes. Measure it (believe it is 3.32" long) to ensure it is the correct length. Put a little axle grease on it and stick it back in (or the replacement) and shove it in as far as it will go then put the plug back in. When you replace the pump be sure the pump arm goes into the short gap between the rod and the block. If you pushed it in and there is no gap, you can bump the starter just a little to rotate the cam eccentric away so the rod goes in further to create the gap.

Sounds complicated but it's really not.

 

[7DCUDA383A]

The metal line coming from the tank has a raised part on the end that you connect a rubber fuel line hose to and the other end goes into the fuel pump inlet. Both sides need a clamp, and most people simply use a worm clamp. If the shop you use fusses at you for fixing a fuel pump leak then I would not use them.

The pump is normally pretty easy to replace. On my Challenger, I pull the alternator to get unrestricted access to the pump. As mentioned above, you might also want to check the length of the fuel pump rod. Once the pump is out, there is a plug under it that you can remove. You can reach your finger into the fuel pump cavity and slide the rod out of the hole where the plug goes. Measure it (believe it is 3.32" long) to ensure it is the correct length. Put a little axle grease on it and stick it back in (or the replacement) and shove it in as far as it will go then put the plug back in. When you replace the pump be sure the pump arm goes into the short gap between the rod and the block. If you pushed it in and there is no gap, you can bump the starter just a little to rotate the cam eccentric away so the rod goes in further to create the gap.

Sounds complicated but it's really not.

when I unhook the line from the pump will fuel rush out or do you crimp it with something .