New Member with some questions about Cuda's

[Sledgehammer]

I am new to the forum. I have a buddy trying to sell me a 70 Cuda that he picked up and doesn't want, originally a 383 car with Auto and air. It now has a 440 auto - air - P/S - P/B . Painted Plum Crazy purple with Black interior. He doesn't know if that's the original color. He says it's a solid #2 car and has the original 383 to go with the car, needing rebuilding of course.

I have always wanted a Cuda. Have had a lot of A and B bodies and even 78 New Yorker.

Is there anything I should look for in trouble areas other than the usual search for rust? Any weird parts That I need to make sure work are or there because their are expensive or too hard to find?

Also, I know I don't have pictures posted, but what do 70 Cuda's sell for in pretty good to excellent shape?


Thanks In Advance.

 

[ramenth]

Keep an eye out for the typical Mopar rust: trunk extenders, pans, rails. The E-bodies have the added benefit of rust issues in the cowl area. What I usually tell folks when researching rust problem areas to is take a look at AMD's catalog. They offer all those parts for a reason.

As far as the original color, is the fender tag missing? Remember, that and the build sheet are the break down of equipment for the car, along with colors. They would also tell you about any options the car maybe equipped with and missing now that could lead you on a hunt for what parts you may need and the cost of such.

As far as pricing goes, pics would help with that.

Welcome aboard!

 

[74 challenger]

welcome to the site.

 

[challenger6pak]

The first area of the cowl to go is above the fuel and brake pedals. Crawl inside and look above them slightly to the left. There may be some insulation there. Check that area. On the outside of the cowl look above the master cylinder. Look at the panel between the rear glass and the trunk lid from the back side (inside trunk). Pay attention to the hard to see rear corners where the panel meets the quarter panels. Check the lower quarter panels in front and behind the wheel wells. Look in the wheel wells to see if there are any holes. Rear frame rails seem to go bad at the ends where they meet the bumpers. Check the front inner fenders where the hinges bolt on. It should be smooth. If it buldges, there is rust under there. Then check the common areas people check like floors , etc. Ramenth gives good advice. AMD sells the parts because they go bad. Since they sell the parts, it means you can rebuild almost anything. That will give you the factors to consider when finding a value of this car. It will also tell you if you want to go forward with it. Post pics of it here. We will be glad to help.

 

[challenger6pak]

Since you are checking out the car, make sure the numbers match. Here is a pic to help.

 

[AlleyoopMgv]

Welcome to FEBO!

 

[DetMatt1]

Welcome to the site from the Motor City!

 

[Sledgehammer]

Thanks for all the Info, help and welcomes

Interesting. Still haven't seen it in person, but he called me when he was at the car. He sent me some crappy cell phone pics. Looks like a nice car from those crappy pics. He walked the car, Needs door panels, woodgrain on the dash, . He said the paint and body was really nice, runs and drives well.

The VIN tag might be a problem, it is upside down compared to every car I have seen. Some one must have replaced the dash once or did the come that way?

 

[jfreakofkorn]

Welcome to the Site ....

 

[Sledgehammer]

Well all the codes matched, the vin matched in all the spots and it looks really sweet. I got a 24hr look see from my bud, but I think I am keeping it.

It's got a 440 in it right now but the original engine goes with the car if I pull the trigger and keep it.

 

[challenger6pak]

The VIN tag is designed to be read from the outside of the car through the windshield.

 

[Sledgehammer]

The VIN tag is designed to be read from the outside of the car through the windshield.

yea. I don't know what the guy was thinking... He was describing it to me over the phone telling me it was on wrong, telling me it was a@@backwards..I took that as upside down. It is sitting where you can read it but I think since it was on top of the Foam pad he was thinking it belonged under the foam pad. He is a car guy but really doesn't mess with Mopars.

I triple checked the Numbers on the cowl, radiator support and trunk area. It's been painted over but you can still see the #'s. Of course now, It;s pouring down here and I can't go driving.

 

[challenger6pak]

Sounds like he is used to Chevy's. Many of the Chevy VIN's are attached to the dash frame. The pad is cut out so you can read the VIN. Ford may do the same.