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Rear seal

Ralph

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I have a 71 challenger 383 and I am leaking at the real seal. I had an mechanic put it up on a lift and point it out to me.

Question, can a real seal be changed in the car after the 4 spd trany, flywheel etc is out of the way.

Those in the know please chime in.

Thanks to all

Ralph
 

tonysrt

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Is the tranny and flywheel out already? The REAR seal can be changed without removal of tranny and flywheel, although it takes a little finese.
 

DetMatt1

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And it may still leak after it’s replaced so depending on how badly it’s leaking you might choose your battles. One of my 440s was leaking a bit so I replaced it with one of those billet aluminum jobs from Mancini’s and that was a big mistake because it was basically running out after that. Went back to the stock housing and another new lip seal and it didn’t leak for a week or 2 and now it’s back to leaking as bad as it did when I started. The crank has 150k miles on it and I think the seal area is just plain worn out.
 

budascuda

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And it may still leak after it’s replaced so depending on how badly it’s leaking you might choose your battles. One of my 440s was leaking a bit so I replaced it with one of those billet aluminum jobs from Mancini’s and that was a big mistake because it was basically running out after that. Went back to the stock housing and another new lip seal and it didn’t leak for a week or 2 and now it’s back to leaking as bad as it did when I started. The crank has 150k miles on it and I think the seal area is just plain worn out.
Is there anything that can be done in this case? Short of buying a new/good crank.
 

Ralph

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Hey, thanks to all for your comments.
 

tonysrt

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The tricky part is cutting the ends off in the block without scoring the crank. The cap part is the easy part. It is also recommended that the split not be at the block part and the cap. Good luck.
 
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