Simple Wiring Diagram for starting a 383

[TripleBlk70]

I have a 383 BB (with 727 torqueflight) that came with the purchase of my car that I'm not going to be using, so I'm going to put it up for sale.

Before I do that, I want to get the engine running. I'm looking for a super-simple wiring diagram on how to hook up the battery/starter/coil/distributor to make it run. No key just a momentary contact + on/off switch for power and to activate the starter.

Can anyone out there help me?

 

[pschlosser]

Do you intend to run the engine on some kind of stand?

If so, you may need ignition components, like those on the engine firewall. This is an old topic, and there are simplified wiring diagrams for the various types of ignition (points, electronic, aftermarket, etc) available on other searches.

Once you work out how you will store and deliver the test engine's fuel, and cooling, you only need a battery (or charger big enough to turn over the starter), a remote starter switch, and a simplified wiring of the components mentioned above.

This might be a bunch of work, is it worth it?
What are you hoping to learn about the engine by running it this way?
If it runs or not?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

What ign are you using , points are simple , electronic with an ECU are mre complicated

 

[TripleBlk70]

Yes I want to see if it runs and is basically ok. I also have a scope I'm going to use to look inside (and take pics) of the cylinders. I was told the engine was rebuilt 11k miles ago but have no way to verify that and plan to be up front when I sell it about what I know. But it seems like being able to get it running would improve my chances of getting a better price for it.

I have it on a rolling stand and that's where/how I'll run it. I just want to try and fire it for a very brief time, and was not planning to run cooling and fuel, just a bottle of gas and power to the starter, coil and distributer.

And yes I realize that's not recommended but I did it that way with the small block chevy I bought for my last project just to make sure it was "as advertised" and ran it for a very short time to make sure it was ok before I prepped and painted it, and put it in the car.

 

[TripleBlk70]

Actually put a different way - and I know we're into "opinion territory" here, is going through this effort a waste of my time? It's a basic run-of-the mill 1969 383 block.

 

[pschlosser]

I think all you will find out is if it runs. And the carburetor is a big part of that.

Driving it around with the tranny, could (but no guarantee) tell you quite a bit more. At the least, you can take video of the engine running and performing in a car, before it pulled back to the bench.

That said, it seems like lots of work without a ton of return. That said, knowing what you got, if it runs, how well it runs, compression, etc, will be things a buyer will want to know.

Unless you know those engine rebuild details, it will be kind of a grab-bag for the buyer, any way you slice it.

 

[Bret Schneider]

Honestly in this case a buyer might be more interested in seeing a couple of main / rod bearing caps pulled off to get an idea of what the bottom end looks like. Heads pulled as well to get a look at the cylinders. Granted now you have the engine in pieces, but as others have said, not sure there's much value in knowing it'll run for a minute. I'd rather know what I have to work with. But maybe that's just me...

 

[john27pa]

Here are some basics

 

[john27pa]

Had to redo this one

 

[john27pa]

Wiring

 

[TripleBlk70]

ok, so that's very helpful and I now realize that I need an ignition module and ballast resistor in addition to a coil. I don't know if it's worth the trouble to buy those parts and spend the time in the hope of getting "more money" when I sell the thing.

I can (will) plan to:

- Look inside the cylinders and other parts of the engine with a scope (and take pics)
- Run the oil pump prior to turning it over
- Assuming it turns over ok, I will compression test the cylincers

Once I've done all that I will decide if I want to go any further or just list it for sale.

Any thoughts on what it would be worth with the 727 assuming all is ok and compression checks out?

 

[pschlosser]

IMO, it will be hard, really hard, to properly test the 727 tranny on the bench. And I concur, you can presume it works fine. If it doesn't, let the buyer deal with it.

It takes time and effort to drop any engine (and/or tranny) into a car, simply to test it. As a buyer of a used engine/tranny, I must trust and rely on the video, documentation and proof the seller provides to convince me otherwise.

More than once, have I or a friend purchased a used motor, only to tear it down (partly or all the way) for inspection on a Friday night, and when we find nothing wrong, reassembled, in the car, tuned and racing by the very next night.

What is your market? Who are you selling the motor to? A DIY greaser who may tear it down and put it back together, or someone who has no desire to open it, and needs your assurances of what they are buying?

You may get the same amount, more or less, either way.

 

[TripleBlk70]

IMO, it will be hard, really hard, to properly test the 727 tranny on the bench. And I concur, you can presume it works fine. If it doesn't, let the buyer deal with it.

It takes time and effort to drop any engine (and/or tranny) into a car, simply to test it. As a buyer of a used engine/tranny, I must trust and rely on the video, documentation and proof the seller provides to convince me otherwise.

More than once, have I or a friend purchased a used motor, only to tear it down (partly or all the way) for inspection on a Friday night, and when we find nothing wrong, reassembled, in the car, tuned and racing by the very next night.

What is your market? Who are you selling the motor to? A DIY greaser who may tear it down and put it back together, or someone who has no desire to open it, and needs your assurances of what they are buying?

You may get the same amount, more or less, either way.

Thanks for the candid thoughts, and I was thinking along the same lines. I want to get a fair price for the engine/trans because I need whatever I can get to help finance the rest of my own build.

Having said that, I am a car guy at heart, so I really want the thing to go to someone who will use it in their own project. So that's my market. I have an enclosed trailer with a ramp so I'm even willing to deliver it once I make a deal on the thing.

But before all that I'm going to do what I said in terms of scoping it, lubing it and then compression testing. After the advice here and thinking about the time and additional expense involved I think that's as far as I'm willing to go. Then I will list it for sale. I will update this thread with info on what I find about the motor in case anyone following is interested.

Also, here's a link to a google album with pics of the motor/trans: 383 Big Block

 

[Xcudame]

I just have to ask why you don't want the 383? What are you replacing the 383/727 with? The 383 makes a great engine with 440 crankshaft and connecting rods (431 cubic inches) and the 727 is almost bullet proof - best automatic ever built.

 

[TripleBlk70]

I just have to ask why you don't want the 383? What are you replacing the 383/727 with? The 383 makes a great engine with 440 crankshaft and connecting rods (431 cubic inches) and the 727 is almost bullet proof - best automatic ever built.

Oh I get it. I'm a big block Mopar guy going all the way back to my high school days when I had a 68 Charger with a 383 in it, and then a 70 Challenger hardtop with a 440 and a 4-speed pistol grip.

When I bought this 70 Challenger convertible to build I was deciding between a 440 big block or a late model hemi. Ended up getting a really good deal on a low mileage 392 Scat Pack Engine with an 8spd automatic.

So the 383 I have now came with the convertible, and while I know they are good engines, I was never going to use that 383 in the convertible.

 

[Xcudame]

Got it! 392 Scat Pack engine will be fun! I sure hope the 383 isn't numbers matching! Would be sad to see a number's matching big block convertible be turned into a Gen III hemi swap! But it's yours and you can do what you want.

 

[TripleBlk70]

Got it! 392 Scat Pack engine will be fun! I sure hope the 383 isn't numbers matching! Would be sad to see a number's matching big block convertible be turned into a Gen III hemi swap! But it's yours and you can do what you want.

While you're right that it's "my car" etc, I would not do that to a numbers-matching car!!! The convertible was a 318 car originally, and (I was told) the 383 came out of a Dart but can't vouch for that.

It was a tough decision because I really love BB power/torque but decided the 392 is the path for me.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The thing I remember about my 71 383 4 barrel 4sp is. You can bet me but I bet you can't break me. They are tough. Maybe check the crank shaft end play. More so for a standard. Thrust bearing wear.

 

[Challenger RTA]

To test start or run. If you have engine harness put it on and you can start and run it from the bulkhead plug.