Subframe connectors/ torsion bar/ sway bar questions

[70cuda50]

1. I have 70 340 vert. Planning on swap to 440. I have heard plenty of flex on verts anyway and BB won't help. what is the word on subframe connectors? Will they be a noticeable help or waste of money. If needed, any suggestions on brand.
2. thanks to FEbo I also realized BB came with beefier torsion bars. Anyone make SB to BB swap and Not swap bars. How big of deal if I don't.
3. Sway bar... is there a BB front bar also and what about adding rear bar. How much if any will subframe connectors affect torsion and sway bar decisions?
Lots to sort out as I swap, replace, and upgrade parts I haven't thought about or probably really understood in 30 years.

 

[Adam]

These are highly rated, but I have not personally used them:
70-74 E Body Frame Connector for Plymouth Cuda

I would definitely upgrade the torsion bars because the big block is heavy, and you can upgrade the suspension bushings at the same time... modern radial tires are way better than the old bias ply tires in the corners and will highlight any suspension deficiencies... unless you want your car to handle and turn like an aircraft carrier. My two cents.

 

[PST]

I would definitely upgrade the torsion bars for modern handling while still retaining a quality ride that is not harsh. Many owners are moving up to an 1" or larger torsion bars now a days . We offer a 1.03" bar with a 20 degree clocking (best sellers). The other item that you would want to look into is a quality set of shock as they are one of the biggest dictators of ride quality. We recommend Bilsteins or if you are looking for adjustability Viking is the way to go. Also as a member of the mopar forum you are eligible for a members discount which is 10% off any order over $200 and free shipping within the US 48 States.

Thanks
James From
PST
www.p-s-t.com

 

[Adam]

I have slightly over one inch bars in my 440 Challenger; I like them very much, not harsh at all.

 

[70cuda50]

Adam, your

I have slightly over one inch bars in my 440 Challenger; I like them very much, not harsh at all.

Adam your in box is full for PMs. I need to order my torsion bars. Was looking mostly at 1.03 from PST and Hotchkiss. What do you have? also I am going with the frame connecters you mentioned. Anyone else plz chime in.
Also this probably should be another thread that may start a big debate but for my basic cruising plans vs handling machine is rubber actually preferred over the polygraphite including front end rebuild kit (also looking hard at PST)

 

[moparleo]

Go with rubber only on the lower control arms. Poly on everything else. Make sure to use plenty of poly lube.

 

[Adam]

Adam, your


Adam your in box is full for PMs. I need to order my torsion bars. Was looking mostly at 1.03 from PST and Hotchkiss. What do you have? also I am going with the frame connecters you mentioned. Anyone else plz chime in.
Also this probably should be another thread that may start a big debate but for my basic cruising plans vs handling machine is rubber actually preferred over the polygraphite including front end rebuild kit (also looking hard at PST)

Thanks, I did not know. My inbox has been cleared...

I do not remember the brand I used, but 1.03 sounds about right. They were bare steel so I sprayed them with a flexible undercoating to protect them; originals had a protective coating..
I used all polyurethane bushings because the rubber bushing do not seem to last very long. I have no complaints about the poly bushings, they do not squeak, and are not harsh. The car (71 Challenger) handles much like a modern car.

 

[Dodgeboy]

I swapped from a 318 to a 383 and left my factory 318 torsion bars in (74 chally). Car handles ok, its no road racer and i have full floating rear axle bearings (green bearings) which aren't rated for any side load so i take my corners slow. Its the slant 6 torson bars that will snap when you hit a pothole if you've dropped in v8. I have subframe connecters as my car does flex and I heard that the bottom rear corner of the rear passenger side window will crack (where the bottom roof seam and quarterpanel meet) and can shatter the rear side windows. So far I just have the stress cracks. I would like to replace my sub-frames with fully weld on ones but haven't yet.