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Subframe connectors

rnb69

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Looking to install subframe connectors in a 70 Barracuda. What are the pro's/cons of the subframe connectors offered by shops like US Car tool, where the connectors are cut to fit the bottom of the floor pan, vs cutting into the floorpan & fabbing up/welding in a square tube section? Car isn't that fast yet, mid 7's in the 8th mile, but plans are to have 600+ hp under the hood within the next couple years. Looking for my best option to stiffen the car up to handle that kind of hp, maybe even more. I will be having a cage built as well, but I'm not that far along where I need it yet. Thanks...
 

Bill

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Leo.
My car is on a rotisserie. I was wondering what your thoughts were on welding in torque boxes and frame rail connectors while the car is on the rotisserie. My fear is that the car may be a little twisted up on the rotisserie and I don't want to weld the torque boxes and frame rail connectors into place if teh car is twisted?????? I was going to drop the car back onto the suspension, weld the frame rail connectors and torque boxes into place then take the car back off of the suspension to get the underside and inside of the car primed, seam sealed and lizard skinned?
(Hope you don't mind me chiming in rnb69)
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moparleo

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Obviously the frame should be checked before any structural welding is done. It would be best to mount the chassis to a jig, or at least put it on jackstands and check all measurements. Once you are satisfied with your measurements, you can weld the front and rear of the frame rail connectors. Or use some small square tubing across, and length wise to stiffen the chassis during mockup. It should be alright to remount to the rotisserie and finish welding everything.
 

burntorange70

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I went with 2X3 tube welded up through the floor. Nice thing about that is you can then run your cross bars off of your main hoop down on top of the connectors. IMO this is the strongest way to go. Some thing like uscartools would be a close 2nd.

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Chryco Psycho

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I went with 1x2 tube contoured under the floor rather than cut through the floor pan which makes a ridge under the rear carpet , I would at least block the body where the suspension mounts & weld in the connectors , it would save a lot of work mounting the suspension & still stress the body the same way
 

rnb69

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Thanks for the input. Seeing as how I plan on installing a cage sometime in the next year or so, I'm leaning toward the 2x3 run through the floorpan. Not too worried over the intrusion into the rear floor since the back seat has been sat in maybe 3 times in 20 years. Really looking forward to getting this project restarted & back on the road.
 

Bill

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After I got mine tacked in I turned the car right side up and they don't go into the floor more than a 1/2" or so. Nothing a little extra carpet padding wont take care of.
 
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