Upper control arms STUCK!

[falcben]

Hello all!

I just removed all of my suspension for a frame rail replacement. I can’t seem to get the bolts that hold the upper control arm to the shock tower to budge....all four of them. Any advice? I am replacing both shock towers so is it worth just cutting the arms out?

Thank you!
Ben

 

[SFEbody]

Fire up the torch!

 

[gzig5]

If you heat the nut up to red, it should release its grip. Can you get an impact gun on it? Engine is out right? So 3/4" socket on breaker bar and another two foot long cheater pipe. Sharp impact from a 5lb+ hammer is your friend. If that won't do it, cut the nut off with a grinder. I'd hate to catch the car on fire or blow a hole where you don't want one.

 

[falcben]

I do have the nut off, the bolt is just stuck in the bushing sleeve.

I’ll try a little more heat next time I am out there. I don’t think they are going to budge...

 

[gzig5]

Hammer time. I just removed one of these on Sunday. Mine came out without a fight. But if the nut is off, then you should be able to get a hammer on the end of the bolt and tap it out. I'd bet the eccentrics are rusted to the bracket. Maybe try putting a wrench on the bolt head and work it back and forth to loosen it up.

 

[340challconvert]

Just went through this.
Tried heat, marginal success;
Tried kano aerokroil
Industrial strength with the extra silicone
Sprayed several times over several days and used a hammer to tap them out.
Let the oil do the work.
Worked great with minimal aggravation.
Works better then the CRC and other penetrating oil brands. i mail order it from the factory.
Hope it helps.

 

[Grady Cain]

Been through this before. Spray it with PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil of your choice and then use an air hammer with a nice, pointy chisel. Most likely will ruin the cam bolt but it should come out. The vibration of the air hammer is a huge help in freeing the bolt from the rusty grip of that bushing sleeve...

 

[B. Wilson]

Just went through this.
Tried heat, marginal success;
Tried kano aerokroil
Industrial strength with the extra silicone
Sprayed several times over several days and used a hammer to tap them out.
Let the oil do the work.
Worked great with minimal aggravation.
Works better then the CRC and other penetrating oil brands. i mail order it from the factory.
Hope it helps.
View attachment 51989

Aerokroil is industrial grade...it will do the work for you. In the aircraft industry it's the only choice. Wear gloves! It will soak into your skin immediately...

 

[gzig5]

Aerokroil is industrial grade...it will do the work for you. In the aircraft industry it's the only choice. Wear gloves! It will soak into your skin immediately...

Yeah, but then you get to carry that nice aroma around with you all day....love the smell of Kroil.

 

[aussiemark]

That's nasty, I did a front frame rail and the car is as bad as it gets rust wise but the control arm came off very easy with normal tools.

 

[DetMatt1]

50/50 acetone and trans fluid works great too.

 

[340challconvert]

Yeah, but then you get to carry that nice aroma around with you all day....love the smell of Kroil.

Stuff does have a distinct scent; when I used a little on my car in the attached garage, I didn't hear the end of "what am I doing in the garage" from my wife.
Expensive compared to other "creeping oils" but worked very well for me!

 

[moparcop]

Soak, heat, beat and repeat.