V Code Replacement Block with Correct Date Code

[Rustd49]

Looking at purchasing a 1970 V code Cuda, however I've been told it has a "replacement block with correct date code". The rest of the drive train I've been told is numbers matching. Would that significantly hurt the car's value? It's a "#s matching hemi 4 speed and dana 4:10 rear end, the engine has a replacement block with correct date code"... any help would be a appreciated for the newbie!

 

[Avalanche]

Any time the original engine is missing it will hurt the value. Replacement date code block is just that, a block that came on another car in the same year.
How much it hurts value really depends on the person buying the car, some people it's a problem and some it's not

 

[Rustd49]

I guess a block is a block, just don't want to pay a matching #'s price. I tried to do some research and it seems low end is 55k and high end 100k. Just don't want a clone car is all...

 

[DetMatt1]

It seems like it depends on the car. I think it does hurt the value but if the car has the right options and desirable color, etc it begins to matter less.
Oh and welcome to the site from the Motor City!

 

[Rustd49]

Thanks for the info and welcome!

 

[Rick97dodge]

If u dont mind me asking where is the car located i know of one forsale right now with the same kind of info that is a friend of mine

 

[Rustd49]

Ontario, just north of Toronto... where is your friends car?

 

[340challconvert]

This may help you determine exactly what engine the car has:
Engine Stamping Decoding | MoparCarParts.Com

Replacement factory warranty blocks usually had no numbers, or stamped by the dealer mechanic. Some had a plate riveted to the side of the block.
If it is from another car, the block will have the serial number of the car it came from.
Also agree with previous comments: hurts the value somewhat, but it seems to matter less these days.

 

[Rustd49]

Thanks for the link and info. I guess the best outcome would be a warrantee block... I will have a look at the block later this week...

 

[4mayhemi]

Seeing how (guessing) 2/3 of all big block Cuda's have NOM, it doesn't affect price toooo much, relatively speaking. There are so many other variables that affect price, like rust/sheetmetal work,
original parts, options/BS/tag . . . on and on.

Only a warranty block including dealer replacement papers could catch up to the price of a #match motor. After that, it really just depends on the buyer how much value he places on an unstamped or date coded block, and what else plays in the $ negotiation. Clones are a different story.

 

[Rick97dodge]

Ontario, just north of Toronto... where is your friends car?

My buddys is in md

 

[Rustd49]

Seeing how (guessing) 2/3 of all big block Cuda's have NOM, it doesn't affect price toooo much, relatively speaking. There are so many other variables that affect price, like rust/sheetmetal work,
original parts, options/BS/tag . . . on and on.

Only a warranty block including dealer replacement papers could catch up to the price of a #match motor. After that, it really just depends on the buyer how much value he places on an unstamped or date coded block, and what else plays in the $ negotiation. Clones are a different story.

What would you think if it's out of another E body car same model year?

 

[4mayhemi]

Again, it depends on the specific car to assess value. So for example lets say its the EV2 car for sale now in your town of Caledon, ON for $88K Cars On Line.com | Classic Cars For Sale. Are the carbs/intake correct? Radiator? Manifolds? Real shaker or repro? Wing/elasto optioned or added? Condition/originality of interior? Trunk/quarters replacement handiwork? If everything checks out (BTW some questions are answered in the ad), then having a date-correct block is not a negative IMO. In this example, (it was discussed on another site) $88K may be too high, where you could get a Hemi Bbody, A12 or something. If it was original, he could ask $85-95K.

So really, to play a numbers game the best opinions are had by posting pictures and description and let the experts (I'm not!) weigh in. I don't think there is a formula that says "subtract $6250 for NOM", it varies too much.

 

[Rustd49]

That's the car I'm interested in to be honest, going to see it on Friday. When you say it was discussed on another site do you mean the specific car?

 

[4mayhemi]

That's the car I'm interested in to be honest, going to see it on Friday. When you say it was discussed on another site do you mean the specific car?

Yep. Aren't Shakers Popular Anymore ? in Cuda & Challenger General Discussion
FWIW I'd be happy at $78-80 if I had the cash, once the tag was scrutinized. Don't be afraid to ask those that have actually seen it for some advice. Most in the Mopar community are helpful for other's purchases, if they wanted it themselves it would be gone already.

 

[Rustd49]

Ok. Thank you for the link but what do they mean by the following in quotes from the link "Might be an idea to have the seller post up the original tag, pitted or not as it is a real V-code shaker, though IIRC it's an A33 car, not A34"?

 

[Rustd49]

This is the tag that was posted with the add. Hope this helps... are they saying it's a copy or fake? Is there any other cuda's similar, that have the correct paper work, tag etc that could be used for reference price. Not sure what to look for on the tag to make sure it's original and besides pitting but it seems to be well paint it over?

 

[4mayhemi]

Tag has an awful lot of codes shown, hard to verify without a broadcast. There are no apples to apples reference points. More like oranges to tangerines with a lot of looking and learning. Glad you're doing your homework though. Best place to ask is over there. Maybe hire a second set of eyes to go there with you.

 

[Rustd49]

Thank you for your input, much appreciated... now I just have to find a Mopar pair of eyes.