Head Gasket leak

[73-Cudah2]

Checked my oil and it looks like chocolate mike dang! I need to pull the engine to do other work but wanted to ask
you guys, if I should remove exhaust manifolds or just unbolt from exhaust and pull it with them on? Looks like it will clear lifting the engine up and out.
I plan to replace heads and intake gasket's. I want to clean up the engine and paint it also. I was planning on doing that later but the leak forced my hand.
any advice would be appreciated big time. This is pushing out my PDR work a bit now. I just finished the heater core rebuild and new core install when I noticed the oil issue. Thanks

 

[Chryco Psycho]

depends on what engine to a point but yes it can be removed with the manifolds in place just more risk of damage if the engine comes close to the inner fenders .
you will need to take the engine apart completely as the bearings could also be damaged

 

[tonysrt]

What engine, and do you know why gasket is leaking? Usually an overheat, or maybe cheap gasket. If you tell us, may help someone else from making same mistake.

 

[73-Cudah2]

I have a 1973 Cuda 340 4 speed, Yes the engine did over heat into the red line 2 times ( First time I thought it was just low on coolant, I was worried about head gaskets so I did check oil at a gas station to add more coolant the oil looked good. The second time was about one mile from that gas station home and it over heated again and check oil again it looked good after parking it in the garage for 2 months thinking it was the water pump/thermostat ). I don't think it was driven with milky oil ( it's been sitting in garage ) but there could be more damage I will check it over if anything else needs to be replaced.My attention was focused on replacing water pump/thermostat and heater core at the same time when I just checked the oil and saw it milky.

Another question would you pull the transmission with engine or disconnect the transmission and just support the trans by a jack or just remove the transmission from the engine first? Trying to avoid extra work.
Looking at a few videos of 340 engines being pulled. Unlike "Grave Yard Cars" I don't have a lift to lift up the car and do a k member drop with the engine. If you have pulled an engine out of a E body is there any other things I should be thinking about please add. No AC to worry about.
Thank you.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I always do the K frame drop easier , faster & cleaner , you don't need a hoist to do it , the engine crane is enough .
I hate trying to do the trans through the engine bay so I would leave it in place .
340 can be removed easily with the manifolds on the engine .
Remove the dist & oil sender to keep it away from the firewall as you pull it .
Milky oil had to be started at least to mix it otherwise the oil just floats on the water .

 

[mrmopar340]

Yep and enough could have left those bearings spinning in water instead of the oil. Definitely need a teardown to check the bearings.

 

[73-Cudah2]

I will take a look thanks for the feed back. I'll post what I find.

 

[73-Cudah2]

The engine has it mixed in the intake also. I will pull and clean and check mains too.
The Cam looks good from what I can see with the intake removed. I ran into a problem trying to use a HF 1 Ton lift.
it wouldn't reach far enough into to pull it up and out. I ended up buying a leveler that was a little longer and I removed the front end.
looks like I can reach now. I am doing the engine pull off Kwik lift ramps makes it easy work under it removing things. I think I'll have to lower the ramps on to blocks so the 1 Ton can roll under the lift tube. It looks like I have enough room to clear the radiator frame to pull the engine over it.

 

[73-Cudah2]

I pulled the engine and bearings look good, just cleaning up the block and heads. I am replacing the engine frost plugs
and found some rust. Have any of you clean out the block on a engine stand?

 

[73-Cudah2]

Looks like I may need to replace timing chain and gears? What do you guy's think?
Thanks!

 

[mrmopar340]

Looks like I may need to replace timing chain and gears? What do you guy's think?
Thanks!

View attachment 123720

View attachment 123721

Yeah for sure. Cloyes billet are nice ones. Hate to say but my Edelbrock one stretched after about 2 years. You can also fit the chain tensioner from the 5.9 motor under an la motor with some clearancing under the timing cover. A new camshaft thrust plate would also warrant replacing as you are going to have it down anyway. New water pump cheap insurance too.

 

[73-Cudah2]

Thanks for the info. This has turned into a bigger job than I wanted at this time, but here I am. Thanks again.

 

[Xcudame]

I've cleaned water passages on bare blocks with a pressure washer. Without tearing it completely down because water will get every where, I'd try just flushing with a garden hose and water line normal pressure (50 - 80 psi). Each side of the block water jackets is separate from the other, so have the side your working on tilted so all the water runs down. The rotate the block and do the other side.

Timing chain tensioner:
1998 DODGE DAKOTA 3.9L V6 Timing Chain Tensioner | RockAuto

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Chain for sure , Cloyes is good , I use JP performance chains

 

[73-Cudah2]

Man the more I look at the more I find. Pulling a few valves and this one looks bad. So you replace all valves if you have a bad one correct? This #1 cylinder exhaust valve looks ready to separate.

 

[Xcudame]

Believe it or not, some exhaust valves had a reduced diameter near the head. How does it compare to other exhaust valves? How's the wear in the cylinder head valve guides and seats?

 

[JDMopar]

I've cleaned out water passages on a stand with a pressure washer, but the motor was all still together. I didn't have the risk of wetting the inside of the motor, so I don't think I'd do it while it is as far apart as you have it. Rake as much of the rust out as you can, with a bent coat hanger and keep flushing it until it's clear. Don't forget the 2 freeze plugs in the back of the block! You definitely need a new chain! I have had just as good of luck with and Edelbrock timing set as I have with Cloyes. Personally, I would be leery of using a tensioner with a double roller chain. I know people who have, and the edges of the double roller chain dug into the plastic on the tensioner and there went the plastic thru the motor. That's just me though, and others may have had better luck and no problems. I'd get the heads checked at a machine shop and maybe a valve job. Clean the oil pickup really good while it's apart, and don't forget to put a new gasket between the oil pump and the main cap when going back together. Sorry you had the troubles, but you'll get it fixed up in no time!

 

[73-Cudah2]

Thanks Xcudame! My brother in-law said he ground the valves to have a triple seat. They look ok but I was going to
do a lap valve job on them to clean up. I need to pull the rest of them yet I will compare them for sure. The Valve is not sliding smooth in or out on that one so it may need to take the heads in. I'll know more once I have the rest of them out. Thanks.
Thank you JDMopar! I am replacing all the plug so I'll try the hose trick clean as much as I can out on the stand.
Since Im into this far I was thinking new gears and timing chain. I'll have to check Cloyes and Edelbrock out thanks again. Yes machine shop may be in my future for these, check for cracks and level deck if ok proceed with valve job.
I sure hope they are still good. I'll keep everyone up to date thanks.

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

The project will likely cost you more than you thought, but don't go cheap and try to cut corners. Build it the way you want with quality parts, taking your time, and it will be reliable for years.

 

[Xcudame]

Ricks72Chlgr440 is correct, you're in this deep, check everything out and machine/replace as necessary. May as well do it right and it will last forever.