440 with 4 barrel carb issue HELP

[djlackore]

Hey guys,

Not sure what is going on with my motor. It seems like this is happening more lately as i drive the car more.

Issue: When i drive everything is good but when i come to s stop and idle my motor tends to sputter and eventuality will die. Then i can start it no problem but when i shift into drive it will sputter then die or immediately die.

I thought this may be a heat issue boiling the gas so i placed a 160 t stat in there and also put on a heat deflector. Issue still occurs. One thing i noticed is that a spot on my fuel line before getting to the carb is sitting at 190-200 degrees.

Here is some video of the issue. It didn't die in the second and third video but you should be able to hear the sputter or see the shacking.

Thanks!

.

 

[Adam]

If it drives fine I think it is getting enough gas and the ignition is ok. Check all the plugs wires, check for a vacuum leak, and also check the idle circuit. If you can turn the idle screws all the way in and it still runs I would suspect the floats are too high and the needle/seat are worn, allowing too much gas to dump at idle..

 

[moparleo]

I would reinstall the proper original replacement thermostat. Are you using a laser thermometer to check the temps ? Is this a new problem ? Any recent changes ? Gas station ? Parts replaced ? Can you give us more details about your car ? Its like going to the Dr. and not telling him that your left leg hurt because you spilled hot water on it. Instead of just I hurt. The more info that you give us the more educated our guesses will be.

 

[djlackore]

I would reinstall the proper original replacement thermostat. Are you using a laser thermometer to check the temps ? Is this a new problem ? Any recent changes ? Gas station ? Parts replaced ? Can you give us more details about your car ? Its like going to the Dr. and not telling him that your left leg hurt because you spilled hot water on it. Instead of just I hurt. The more info that you give us the more educated our guesses will be.

This problem occurred before i changed the t stat.

The car has a small cam and thats all i know about internals. I bought the car from a guy who didnt know what went into the car. I changed the tuning on the car but before then the car died as well. I use 93 octane gas. I have had the car for about 3 weeks.

I am using a laser thermometer to check temps, yes.

Read something about it could be the Orange box?

 

[DetMatt1]

I agree with Leo, you probably aren't doing yourself any favors with the 160 stat. These engines perform the best with what the factory installed and you need to get around the heat issue from a different angle. My feeling is that you're fighting an ethanol problem. Today's fuel(unless you're using pure fuel) is not good for these old cars. The ethanol attracts/creates moisture in the system and also does in fact have a lower boiling point. If this engine has had untreated ethanol based fuel running it for an extended period I would check the condition of the rubber lines, check your steel lines and tank for corrosion, replace your filter, remove and clean out your carb and start using an additive in your gas. I add 1 to 2 ounces of marine 2-cycle oil with TC-W3 to every 5 gallons of gas. If you're not using a phenolic spacer under your carb to brake the heat transfer from your engine you should add one if you can without causing hood clearance issues. Insulate your fuel lines where they come close to your exhaust and possibly add an electric pump near the tank to more quickly replace any fuel that is vaporizing in your lines before the pump.

 

[djlackore]

I agree with Leo, you probably aren't doing yourself any favors with the 160 stat. These engines perform the best with what the factory installed and you need to get around the heat issue from a different angle. My feeling is that you're fighting an ethanol problem. Today's fuel(unless you're using pure fuel) is not good for these old cars. The ethanol attracts/creates moisture in the system and also does in fact have a lower boiling point. If this engine has had untreated ethanol based fuel running it for an extended period I would check the condition of the rubber lines, check your steel lines and tank for corrosion, replace your filter, remove and clean out your carb and start using an additive in your gas. I add 1 to 2 ounces of marine 2-cycle oil with TC-W3 to every 5 gallons of gas. If you're not using a phenolic spacer under your carb to brake the heat transfer from your engine you should add one if you can without causing hood clearance issues. Insulate your fuel lines where they come close to your exhaust and possibly add an electric pump near the tank to more quickly replace any fuel that is vaporizing in your lines before the pump.

Thats kinda what i am thinking. The reason i went to a 160 t stat is because i live in texas and drive in 100 degree weather. It will run hotter than 160 but this helps it not run into the 200's with the heat factor.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Ok lets start with this !
What kind of carb is it ?
heat under the carb could be an issue as the newer gas boils off much more easily but but if you are just coming to a stop this is not likely the problem . You may have an issue with a power valve not working properly or the worng springs under the metering rods . this could also be a vacum leak problem , bad PV vave or hose or even a leak into the brake booster ..
I agree that a 180 or 190 T stat is best
you can install a spacer under the carb such as the Coolcarb - Home which is thin but very efficient

 

[djlackore]

Okay guys, so here is something interesting that may change the game on this.

When my car goes into wanting to sputter and die while sitting in drive idling the alt gauge goes from just on the right side of the middle to the middle and past it then dies.

What could this mean?

 

[AUSTA]

Okay guys, so here is something interesting that may change the game on this.

When my car goes into wanting to sputter and die while sitting in drive idling the alt gauge goes from just on the right side of the middle to the middle and past it then dies.

What could this mean?

Thats just the alternator going below its minimum speed at which it can produce power

 

[DetMatt1]

Thats just the alternator going below its minimum speed at which it can produce power

Agreed, at low idle the alternator isn't spinning fast enough to charge.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

or the vacuum is dropping down with low idle speed opening the power valve flooding the engine depending what carb you have

 

[djlackore]

or the vacuum is dropping down with low idle speed opening the power valve flooding the engine depending what carb you have

its an edelbrock 1411 750cfm

 

[AUSTA]

Okay guys, so here is something interesting that may change the game on this.

When my car goes into wanting to sputter and die while sitting in drive idling the alt gauge goes from just on the right side of the middle to the middle and past it then dies.

What could this mean?

Just try pulling your vacuum line off the distributor & crimping it closed then screw your idle up for a good idle & see if you have the same problem

 

[djlackore]

What does it mean if i still do or dont?

 

[Daves69]

Check all electrical grounds. Maybe clean and re-seat your bulkhead connectors.
Auto / manual trans? Idle RPM?
So when it dies, did you pull the air cleaner lid and note any flooding condition? Any wet plugs?
What temp does the orange box get to, hood closed? Make / buy a stand-off to get it off the firewall? Maybe relocate it to radiator support? Make darn sure it's grounded. Also don't rule out the possibility of a faulty harness or connector for the box.

 

[djlackore]

Check all electrical grounds. Maybe clean and re-seat your bulkhead connectors.
Auto / manual trans? Idle RPM?
So when it dies, did you pull the air cleaner lid and note any flooding condition? Any wet plugs?
What temp does the orange box get to, hood closed? Make / buy a stand-off to get it off the firewall? Maybe relocate it to radiator support? Make darn sure it's grounded. Also don't rule out the possibility of a faulty harness or connector for the box.

So, i am starting to think it isnt the carb and its electrical. When i turn on my lights then hi beems on and off it speeds up the process to make the car die, also holding the horn down. Both will make the alt guage dip over to the D side and the car will sputter and die.

So confused haha. I am going to check grounds and bulkhead. Any ideas besides that?

 

[Daves69]

By chance, are you running an electric fuel pump?
Does your fuse block heat up or do you have higher rated fuses in any of the holders?
Some basic tests you can do..............
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring / Electrical

 

[djlackore]

mechanical fuel pump. I dont think they heat up. They are 20 amp glass tube fuses. I did look at the bulkhead and noticed a few wires melted together, pulled them apart but issue still exists.

 

[Racer57]

I would hesitate before blaming it on ethanol. The US fuel supply has had ethanol in it since the 70's. Its not new, only the politics have changed. I've never had access to "pure gas" and have never had any fuel issues.

 

[DetMatt1]

mechanical fuel pump. I dont think they heat up. They are 20 amp glass tube fuses. I did look at the bulkhead and noticed a few wires melted together, pulled them apart but issue still exists.

I would not run that car anymore until you get the wiring issue figured out. What else did you do with the two wires that were melted together after you pulled them apart? What 2 wires were they? Fire extinguisher handy in the car and where you work on it?