Recent content by 72RoadRunnerGTX

See if this answers your questions.

For the headlights, the only connection between the foot switch and the lamp sockets is the bulkhead connector. Start at the lamps, with the headlight switch on, check for voltage on the red wire (high beam) and the violet wire (low beam). Then check both sides of the bulkhead connector on those...

The Mad electrical article about late seventies trucks again? Under normal conditions, all stock, correctly loaded, there little to no current flowing through the ammeter while the engine is running, full electrical load from the alternator does not flow through the ammeter while in operation...

Assuming the replacement dimmer/foot switch is good, there’s an open between the dimmer switch and the lamps. Which circuit is working, the highs beam or low beams? Dash illumination, should come on with the park lights, circuit routes from the headlight switch to the dash light dimmer, a...

Finally some paint on the car.

To clarify, for ’72, that is the seat belt buzzer only, the key buzzer is incorporated into the horn relay.

That’s all the delay relay/timer needs, constant power and a ground trigger from the door pin switch circuit, yellow output wire goes to the lamps. Wiring diagram is in the FSM, under accessories should you change your mind.

On an E-body, the time delay relay turns on the mentioned headlight switch title lamp and the ignition switch light only. Nothing to do with interior or map lighting. While triggered by the door switch circuit, its not part of it and can be removed, or in this case omitted, without effecting any...

It's a latter replacement switch, see the instructions at the end of this video.

Some more load testing for this "Shunt wire" by-pass. 120+ amps on the stock wiring before any circuit protection opens?

You bet. You will want to clean out the remnants if that missing brush from anywhere near the bearing before reassembly.

The brush assemblies have to be removed before disassembling and/or reassembling the case halves, you will need new brushes. Looks like you reassembled it with the brushes in place, are now damaged, needing replacement.

Yes, Tuff Stuff is good, run them as well. You’ve had it apart then? Once more, you removed the green field wire and grounded the terminal to the alternator case? Disconnect both field wires, check for continuity between the two field terminals. Make sure there is no continuity between either...

With the other field terminal grounded? Alternator is bad.