Wondering if this is an issue , the 2 ribs that go around the tray do not hit here , it's a 402 oil pan , I didn't want to use sealer but only 1 rib touches here , any advice.
I hears good things about the Jegs and Summit windage trays with moulded gaskets , lesss work especially when its up on jack stands and not on a lift .
Looking into the windage tray for my 383 auto with a stamped 402 oil pan , lots of different opinions , are longer bolts required with the molded windage tray , and also have read some use sealant and some do not .
I was looking up windage trays and this post came up , hows the windage tray working for you , Im looking to get one for my 402 oil pan , do you use any loctite on the bolts or is that a no-no .
I am working on changing the plugs and wires soon so I labeled them where they are now . It looks like they are facing the wrong way and the vacuum is pointing towards the battery . I know when I drove it home 2 months ago it rattle on acceleration , is this why . When the weather gets warmer...
Has anyone used Lectric wires with long tube headers and do they fit and if not what angle of boots to use for the spark plug end straight , 90 or 135 . Possibly Accel or Taylor .
Just wondering what everyone has on a 383 auto , I have MSD Street Fire straight on the spark plug , 90s look like they might be better , less wire , or does that put the wire too close to the engine , any opinions .
Never changed a fuel pump on an old car before , this is all new to me and was trying things for myself , simply messed up and now I know , I was going to change the oil pan out anyways so hopefully its in there .