Camber Adjustment Question

[7dCuda]

I need to adjust camber on my 70 Cuda after replacing tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm.

My question is : to adjust camber via the upper control arm camber bolts do I just need to have the front wheels off the ground or do I also need to back off the torsion bar tensioner bolts?

 

[Challenger RTA]

 

[moparleo]

Download your own Factory Service Manual;

-> MyMopar

 

[7dCuda]

Not sure how all that pertains to my question...it certainly doesn't answer it.

I have the FSM and didn't find the answer to my question which is why I asked the question to the forum.

 

[Katfish]

I believe the answer is no to both, having watched them doing alignments,
They definitely don't loosen the height adjustment, and the wheels are on the lift.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I need to adjust camber

Why?

 

[Challenger RTA]

My question is : to adjust camber via the upper control arm camber bolts

Kind of.

 

[Challenger RTA]

do I just need to have the front wheels off the ground or do I also need to back off the torsion bar tensioner bolts?

No and No. when doing alinement wheels are on the ground.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I need to adjust camber on my 70 Cuda after replacing tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm.

No That is not the fix. That is toe. If you put the tie rods back the same count of threads it will be close to what it was.

 

[7dCuda]

No That is not the fix. That is toe. If you put the tie rods back the same count of threads it will be close to what it was.

You don't adjust toe via the camber bolts and I can't adjust toe until camber is set.
I'm measuring camber with a camber gauge and have too much negative camber on both wheels...one is -1.5 and one is -2.....and I only need - .5

Didn't know if just a wrench on the camber bolts would be able to move the upper control arm with the weight of the car on the wheels and with the torque on the torsion bars.....which is why I asked the question.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Didn't know if just a wrench on the camber bolts would be able to move the upper control arm with the weight of the car on the wheels

That's how a car is aligned. Use two plates of metal or plywood with grease in between under the tires. Or garbage bags. So your not only replacing a few components you doing a front end alinement.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Here is some info that I collected for my 71 Cuda:

factory alignment specs for 71 cuda

Camber: -.25 to -.50
Caster: As much positive as possible up to +3
Toe: +1/16" to 1/8" total

With your modern radials:

1/16 toe in
0.5 degree negative camber
as much caster as possible up to around 3 deg positive.
Factory specs are sometimes wide in range and set up for bias ply tires. Factory castor is negative in manual steering cars so grandmas and turn the wheel. And even power steering car have little caster to make them turn like a slush box.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Ok, if the top of the tire needs to come inward & the rear adjuster is already all the way inward you can only adjust the front one to get more adustment ., the reverse is true if the tire needs to come outward so to move it out you can only use the rear adjuster

 

[Challenger RTA]