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Me too - but not selling.:p

Just read this after my other post. Suggest do NOT use 340/360 intake since these ports much larger and very difficult to match - for unobstructed air flow. You can pick up a used Performer or Streetmaster for less than $150. Factory 1968 - 1970 340 intakes are rare and sought after by...

I agree totally with the cam choice. Been there and done that. Anything larger will not perform with stock heads. More economical choice would be the Summit version with .441 valve lift and 46? degrees overlap. My daughter's (340) Challenger has one and it performs equal to stock - and good mpg...

Even the smallest amount of tightness at one or more hinge pivot points will oppose the little amount of spring tension (in the down position). Unless you are fine with removing both springs and the hood itself, try lubing all the pivot points with a quality product then work the hood up and...

Your readings are perfect - - IF you have 'fully grooved' mains. Biggest contributor to low oil pressure is bearing clearances.

If you adjust the T-bars to level out stance - the camber will change and tires begin to wear more on inside. The lower (wedge style) snubbers will almost touch - should be at least an inch of daylight. Best to check ride height as per manual - then work on rear - as already suggested.

If car is indeed hot, suspect rad core - if gauge indicates hot, but temp is normal - likely faulty or incorrect sending unit (new or old).

I will try over at Allpar.

Ummm - I am actually seeking something simpler than the FSM diagrams - - ie: continuity between any two of six blades of isolated switch - - then which wires into motor that will operate and park the wipers.

I saw two (3-spd) switches on eBay. Both claimed to be tested but as it turns out, they were installed to accomplish this. I need a link with info to bench test my switch - then, depending on results, another link to troubleshoot installed motor. Thanks.

Best Ebody colour/color is the one indicated on your fender tagl. But, IF this happened to be orange (on big-block '70 or '71) what would you paint the engine?

Hi. Note the 360 casting. I would suggest casting date of Feb.01, '71? Could you read off the other long casting no. and type it in posting? Hard to see in photo. Very sloppy casting.- - -915?

I totally agree. One thing we can still do today - in spite of high costs of insurance and fuel - is drive these early gen. E - bodies. Tips need to look good and last long. Last time I purchased an OEM pair was 40 years ago - at my local Plymouth dealership. Cost? $55. (CDN) (sigh)

These OEM parts only good to place in a display cabinet. Only a fool would pay what seller demands.

The ad claims stainless - several times. I would hardly think or believe they are chromed steel.

On same subject (sort of) - I am seeking OEM type (E-body Challenger) replacement tips with 2.25'' inlets. Stainless and fair price. Sources or links? Thank-you and stay safe.

Well said.

Grainy pic but you can indeed see the minimal gap from top surface to metal of valance.

I can have my OEM's re-chromed but someone will possibly have a good, used pair (sans black rubbers). Prefer gently used with no visible defects. Please check your parts stashes and let me know - or forward this request. Not in a panic as car off the roads until after next March - at soonest...

Apparently few (if any) of you ever had a brand new E-body Challenger. All of mine had at least two full inches as indicated on top surface - looking sideways. The gap between this surface and the upper valance is minimal - like your pinky finger tip a tight fit. From a side view, only chrome...