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I run the 91 premium (without ethanol) in everything with a carburetor with no additives or boosters. My 6 pack engine had a 10:1 compression ratio and liked a little boost but ran ok on it with a minor ping from time to time. If you get no pinging, I wouldn't spend the money on the Lucas.

Well.........We all know what opinions are good for but you asked. My experience with ethanol over the years has taught me that anything with a carburetor does not get ethanol laced gas ever. Fuel injection handles it fine. Ethanol ate up the accelerator pump on two of my carbureted cars and...

It looks correct and pretty complete to me. Missing a couple of throttle linkage pieces. I don't have any tips on who rebuilds those carbs though. Someone will chime in. I had a 440 Six Pack on my Challenger so not sure if the small block used the vapor separator and return line or not.

If someone doesn't have all four, I can help with two. Both clips and screws are nice but both the black and caramel covers are not the nicest ones in town. They are not broken or cracked but have some crazing at the bottom as you can see in the pic. Let me know if interested. $10.00 shipped.

My 6.1 has that same hole. Not sure but mine has what looks like a frost plug there. Not used in my application anyway.

No. I think you have a pinched wire or bare spot in the insulation somewhere causing an intermittent ground.

If you have the original turn signal switch, I would consider swapping in a new one. Or....at least pull the old one out and inspect for bare or cracked insulation on the wires. Good luck. Patience and perseverance are the main ingredients. Trust me, it is not possessed.

Does it flicker? Stay on solid? My first thought was the signal light switch but it could also be a partial ground. That too could be in the switch itself or the steering column. It is where I would start.

Glad you got if figured out. I had 3 1970 Challengers. One had AC and had the plastic panel but didn't have the map light.

This is the strap on an AC car. The oblong hole goes to the top for minor adjustment.

I think it looks more like the strap that mounts to the front of the heater box.

The ECS rivets look more correct to me while the GM ones look generic. I'm sure their price reflects that also.

There are people on this site that are in the opinion that these hinges do not wear out but they are mistaken. E body hoods are long and heavy. I too had the trouble with my hood lifting at the rear always needing to be pushed down after a drive. What really happens is the rivets wear out and...

I used the 545RFE in my 68 Charger when I upgraded to a 6.1 back in 2014. I can't remember what I got the cable from. Could have been a Jeep but it was floor shifted for sure. Anyway I cut the shifter end off and fabbed an end on that would work with my stock shifter. The detents are the same...

My truck had a 3.21 sure grip. I sold the truck back in 2015 but what I remember is when the gear vendor kicked in, my vacuum gauge dropped down along with the rpms. Mileage stayed about the same (10-11 mpg) The other thing I didn't like about the GV was the design. I remember the shaft housing...

Like Heminut in post 6, I used the SEM products and they still look like new after 20 years. Mine were black so I used the SEM Vinyl Prep and cleaner & Landau black. There is nothing out there that is better IMO.

You have the cable for Non AC. You need this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404807841338?_ By the way. That keeper in your last picture, goes on top of the cable eye not under it.

Not sure but I thought the flanges were clocked different.

I put a Gear vendor behind my 440 Short shaft truck back in 2012. I would not do it again. It gives you a 22 % gear reduction but for my part it was a waste of money. I was looking for some fuel mileage improvement but got none. IMO it was a waste of $3500.00 with no benefits. By the way...

This? https://www.ebay.com/itm/265339888819?