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:welcome:aboard. We need pictures. Also take a picture of the engine compartment so we can see the set-up. Rule #1 Always have a fully charged battery. Always make sure that all grounds are connected and clean. This includes anything electrical. Ground cable to radiator support and cylinder...

What type of ignition and fuel pump are you running ? Is everything stock replacement or "upgraded?" Picture of what you are working on. Is problem just that it starts and then shuts off and won't start again? Recent work done on car ? Did it run fine before ?

that casting number was used on standard 360 and 340 heads as well. It came with .202 intake valves and a smaller combustion chamber than the others. You may be right. Need to be cleaned and magnafluxed. A Guide To Mopar V8 Cylinder Head And Block Casting Numbers

:welcome:aboard. Beautiful car.

Not real expensive. You can do it yourself too. Plenty of YouTube videos.

The pickup must be parallel to the pan bottom and touching, per the factory service manual. Windage need trimming some times..

:welcome:aboard. Nice looker. Take plenty of good, focused close up pictures under the hood. It really helps to find things that need attention. From a correct standpoint. The tires are too narrow /wrong sized. Should be the equivalent of E60-15 front and G60-15 rear and 15 X 7 rims.

Which ones did you need ?

From a service manual Download one. Service Manuals – MyMopar

Complete information needed to get a complete answer. And pictures get you a gold star !

how about some pictures of your setup ? Carbs and distributor. What fuel do you use ?

I would use the vacuum advance. It is not a race car that only uses mechanical advance. Every car forever used vacuum advance until the computer controlled ignitions. Manufacturers have spent millions on r &d. You only find mechanical advance only on off road vehicles. The engine is running at...

You are correct. He needs to download the service manual. It will answer most of his questions.

This information is in the service manual. Download the link. Look in the engine section

When you feel pressure, you are on the compression stroke. That is all it tells you. The Chrysler distributor shaft is like a standard screw driver and fits into a slot/ So it can only go 2 ways correctly or 180° off

What you need is education/information. Download this link and you will get everything you need. Service manuals, parts book, Factory repair videos and more -> Resource Library – MyMopar

Do your self a favor and start with an engine that has not been rebuilt. Rebuilt is a curse word when buying an engine unless you are buying a fresh engine from a reputable builder. Otherwise just assume that everything inside will need refurbishment or replacement.

If you put the wiring back where it was when the car was new, you went backwards. You need to install a Voltmeter and bypass the ammeter. the factory ammeter carried full electrical load from the alternator through the firewall and into the meter. You will find this connection melted on most...

The crank shaft won't show you if the cam is installed correctly. You can only check if the piston is up. Rotate crank until number one piston is all the way up but you can do this by just pulling number one spark plug and checking from the top. If the engine is still in the upright position...

No comparison performance wise. The 6.1 has 425 hp stock. The 727 transmission will mate up with a flywheel adapter. SRT all the way. with the new plug and play engine harnesses it is pretty straight forward. A lot of swap info out there. Check Holley for swap kits.