Still using an ammeter, but it doesn't work? Might be good to check wiring soon.

[Titan1969]

Just dropping a note due to a problem I averted that may help others.
My 73 Cuda was rewired by a resto shop and the ammeter never worked when I received the car back, despite paying for a new ammeter.

4 years later I finally decided to tear dash apart and find the issue.

First I noticed the original ammeter wires provided in the kit were no longer on my car and instead two red 10gauge wires had been installed...clue #1.

Tracing one red wire, led to the 70amp fuse in the engine bay however there were two wires on the one spade terminal, where only one wire should be ...clue #2

Tracing the second wire back into the car, led to the internal fuse block buss...interesting and clue #3

Tracing the opposite side of the ammeter led me back out to engine bay to the hot battery side of the ignition relay...yikes!...clue #4

Conclusion I had no fusible link between the engine bay and dashboard...it was hot wired 24/7 yikes!

Solution: following the Cuda factory manual, rewired correctly and ammeter works!
Just to be sure I pulled the 70amp fuse with the car running and car died

So for those with a dead ammeter that been rewired, maybe take a look in that dashboard

 

[cuda joe]

glad you found that problem

 

[Cuda360-4]

It's so scary to let someone else work on your car. So glad you didn't have a fire!

 

[moparleo]

If you put the wiring back where it was when the car was new, you went backwards.
You need to install a Voltmeter and bypass the ammeter.
the factory ammeter carried full electrical load from the alternator through the firewall and into the meter.
You will find this connection melted on most harnesses.
Catalog
Catalog
https://www.allpar.com/threads/more...1&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1085223101

 

[Challenger RTA]

You will find this connection melted on most harnesses.

When you don't find the inadequate melted connectors. You get FIRED UP! Keep after it.

 

[Titan1969]

Thanks for the feedback. The new wiring has no bulkhead connectors, unlike the factory wiring harness. The bulkhead is where I use to find the issues with melted wiring.
Your right in regards to full power going into the car, however this must pass through a fusible in the engine bay first, so Im not concerned with an issue in the future.
I have owned alot of mopars with ammeters and the only issues I had , were at the bulkhead.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

If you put the wiring back where it was when the car was new, you went backwards.
You need to install a Voltmeter and bypass the ammeter.
the factory ammeter carried full electrical load from the alternator through the firewall and into the meter.
You will find this connection melted on most harnesses.
Catalog
Catalog
https://www.allpar.com/threads/more...1&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1085223101

The Mad electrical article about late seventies trucks again? Under normal conditions, all stock, correctly loaded, there little to no current flowing through the ammeter while the engine is running, full electrical load from the alternator does not flow through the ammeter while in operation. Bulkhead connectors in the charge path are, have always been, the weakest link in this system. The ammeter is not the villain here.