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Would this adjustment be for lifter preload? Or perhaps this is a solid lifter configuration making the adjustment for the valves?

A callout to mopar rocker folks. As I continue to learn more about my (new/old) dodge, I removed the valve covers and was surprised to see something other than a stock rocker setup. Would anyone know what this sort of adjustable system could be?

Thank you. This information is very helpful. I've closed up that space a bit on the limiter and I'm sure I'll be back inside again anyway to replace those rusty springs. I've been looking at spring kit Mr. Gasket 925B, but some reviews state they are a bit on the light side, and bring the timing...

Thanks for the info. I'm going to close those limiter plates up a little bit so I don't have any surprises. The canister appears to have 13 turns of adjustment. I'll set it in the middle and see how she runs.

Would anyone know what benefit the canister could provide?

Thank you for the information. I also have a new adjustable vacuum canister that is for this distributor, it is stamped 11R. Does that mean it has 11 turns of adjustment to it? Would you have any recommendations for the initial setting for this canister?

A callout to mopar distributor folks. As I continue to learn more about my (new/old) dodge, I ran across the distributor plates which appear to be sticky, they don't rebound very well unless I give them a bit of help. When I removed the pickup coil plate, I noticed it does not have the...

I do have an AFR meter installed. The O₂ sensor is about 2 feet downstream from the manifold. I'm assuming power mode is a reference to climbing a grade or merging on from a ramp into traffic. Any ideas on what the AFR reading should be for something like that?

Thanks. I'll probably ditch that 650 carb for something a lot smaller.

A call out to mopar 340 tuners. I'm working to establish some good AFR numbers for my '73 340 engine. It's mostly stock with the exception of mopar high performance exhaust manifolds. I have a new AVS2 650 carb, which may be a little large for a mostly stock 340 engine. Here is a suggested AFR...

I've had leaks at the speedometer cable threads, the band adjust bolt and around the pan bolts. ARP thread sealer stays wet and has solved all of those issues. But the shift shaft seal leaking is a yearly reoccurring problem for me.

I'm looking to stay with a stock 340 intake manifold for my 1970 build, but see many different casting numbers for the full 6 year run. I would assume that the earlier castings would be of a higher performance? The earlier manifolds have 4 rounds holes versus the later manifolds having 2 oblong...

Does head gasket thickness give up much in the way of compression? Would a thinner gasket be less reliable versus a thicker gasket, or does brand/cost quality cancel out that issue?

I'm working towards a build that would be as close to original for the 1970 engine. Would anyone know of the manufacturer for those high crown pistons? This is what I have so far: Eagle forged crank #EAG434033106123 3.3100" Stroke, Internal Balanced $999 Melling camshaft #SPD-22 .429/.444...

Great information here folks, thanks. I'm trying to wrap my head around the reason Chrysler made the cast version externally balanced, why not keep it the same? I get the understanding that casting is a cheaper way to do it, but why trade internally balanced to externally balanced, resulting in...

Is it possible to take a 1970 crankshaft and put it into a 1973 block?

Hello. I have a 340 question as to the determination of a factory pop-up engine (pistons above deck). Is the engine block (crank area) casting slightly differently on the early vs. late 340 engines, or is it the original crankshaft stroke itself that makes it a popup engine, or perhaps a...

Removed from a 1973 Challenger 318/727 setup. Runs quiet. Original to the car, matches the build sheet for a 2.76:1 ratio. Dated 2.26.73. Yoke is a 7260. $250. Kansas City area.

Here's the part number for the 1974 backing plate: 754205

Thanks. I'll save that diagram for future issues. Turns out, the fuse (that appears to be normal) was the culprit. It is slightly warped behind the glass, so it must be internally pulled away from the metal end-point. I guess that's better than replacing a $200 control unit. Lol Thanks again for...