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The first two are driver side and the one on the right is passenger side. Mine are all silver, even the pivot.

IMG_5486 shows the partial VIN: 0B150353 or 0B160353. If the VIN on the car is JH23H0B150353 or JH23H0B160353, the transmission is original to the car.

Is Herb's 1178 Bright Blue interior paint correct for 1970 Challenger B5 blue interior?

Looks like a windshield molding clip.

My tach would not work with the Pertronix electronic ignition. Went back to points and it works fine.

One other '70 Challenger dash difference. The plastic under dash pieces have different shaped edges where they meet the dash. The '70 dash will follow this edge pattern. '71 - '74 have a different pattern.

This may be the case for '70 and earlier B-body k-frames. I know my '70 Challenger had a k-frame that should not have been on the car. I tried to add a sway bar and the k-frame required the bar to pass in front of the k cross member, not through the cross member. I swapped the k-frame for an...

B body k-frame will have a 2 degree angle difference in the steering gear to steering column alignment. It will also not support an e-body sway bar. Other than those items, it can be used on an e-body.

Black on both sides, I believe.

Does the 187 not work for e bodies due to interference with steering linkage?

I've seen 440 oil pans with the following numbers: 187, 402, 699, and 971. Not sure of their applications except the two 187s I have were from '71 Imperials.

Worked for me. 440 with its original mounts dropped right on the 318 K-frame with no modifications. I went with the e-body 440 torsion bars and added a sway bar.

Both conversions are not too difficult with stock parts. For power steering, you'll need a power steering pump, brackets to mount it to the engine and may need a crankshaft pulley with an additional belt drive. You'll need a power steering gearbox and hoses to connect to the pump. For power...

Anything under $10K would be a good price for a complete convertible needing a lot of metal work. I'm not a resto-mod fan, but that is an option for some.

They are stock pistons out of a T-code steel crank 440. I don't know if they are forged or cast, but I believe they are dished not flat top with no valve relief. I would guess they are cast.

I have a set from a '71 Imperial 440. No rods, just pistons. Where in VA are you?

I put a full dual exhaust on my '70 Challenger. Went together nicely. Their clamps are a bit weak, though. You need the manifold p/n to verify they supply systems for the vehicle. I paid around $1200 for mine, probably around 6 years ago. Also sounds really nice (440 4bbl).

Mine says GE 67.

You're right, I mistakenly left off the 383 R/T engine.

The fifth character in the VIN is your engine code (JH23G for example is a 318): C = slant 6 G = 318 H = 340 L = 383 2 BBL N = 383 4 BBL U = 440 4 BBL V = 440 6 Pack R = 426 Hemi I believe all R/T cars had U, V, or R engines in 1970. In '71, H code engines were in R/T cars. Not sure if those...