1970/1971 Challenger real world prices

[Supernaut]

I've been in the market for an E body Barracuda over the last couple of months and came to realize that Barracudas in any decent shape have gone through the roof. While deals pop up every few years, it seems the entry price is now about $50k for a decent driving car.
So my plan B, if you will, was to buy an E body Challenger; and specifically a '71. 71's I'm finding are somewhat elusive and despite being lumped in with all E body Challengers with regard to online price guides, bring a good deal more than a '72-'74.
I'm not opposed to a '72-'74 however I know myself well enough to know that I'm not going to be happy with it once the honeymoon's over.
So anyway, I looked at a '71 Challenger 318/auto/AC car for sale locally and found it was in exceptionally nice shape. One repaint a shade or two off from the original gray color. No cowl or trunk pan rot, great original quarters, clean fenders. Starting to blister in front of the hood hinges but I haven't seen one yet that wasn't. I made an offer but the seller's firm at $34k.
If you check online price guides, $34k is way too high, yet in the real world, it seems appropriate. Completed Ebay auctions were no help, there haven't really been any average '71s sold on ebay in recent months. The "dealership" ads on FB marketplace selling mint Cudas and RT Challengers for $35k are obviously all fake.
I don't have a good finger on the pulse but I suspect the online price guides for '70 & '71 Challengers may be inaccurate.
What does the E body community say an average unmolested '71 Challenger sells for these days or what's everyone's opinion on the current market in general?
I don't want to let this '71 go yet I don't want to spend too much either.
I currently have a '74 Barracuda which needs more time than I really have it turns out so I'm just looking to move on to something a little further along.
Thanks in advance for everyones input!

 

[Xcudame]

If it's a running driving car and all of the trim and grill is there and in great shape plus side markers work, good tires, interior is complete and in decent shape, that certainly makes it more valuable and desirable. Anything you don't have to fix or replace is a huge plus. Without seeing it through pictures or in person, it's hard to say if the $34k is too high. One thing is for certain, these E-Bodies aren't going to go down in price! Ask yourself this question (and only you know the answer), does the 71 Challenger really appeal to you, you like the color(s) and would be beaming with joy to drive it any where?

By the way, I would keep the 74 Barracuda regardless. Slowly work on it while you enjoy the Challenger. Can never have too many E-Bodies.

 

[DetMatt1]

I don’t know anything about values but I do know that Hagerty’s valuation tool on their site is based on known sales and updated regularly.

 

[Supernaut]

I don’t know anything about values but I do know that Hagerty’s valuation tool on their site is based on known sales and updated regularly.

Past sales on Hagerty appear to include '72-'74 Challengers which generally sell for less than 70 & 71, negativity affecting valuation of 70/71 cars.

 

[NixDad]

I think you can find numerous posts, on various sites, regarding Challenger/Cuda pricing (or even muscle cars- generically) commented on.
There is so much related to what you really want and what kind of shape you are looking for.
Are you willing to restore or work on a car or do you just want a nice running car?
Are you willing to travel to look at cars...sometimes at a moments notice...and have cash ready to jump on a car?
Do you want a performance car that has some pedigree (numbers match?), or just any 318 or 6 cylinder car from any year?
in price ranges there are various cars and types...if you are maxed out at $35k that is one type of car, if you can go up to $75k your world of options grows exponentially.
Once you determine your 'cost of entry', then start comparing what is available in that range, you'll see the options (for example: $35k may get you an AAR needing complete restoration vs a 73 Barracuda 318 car that is running and driving)
It seems that Cuda's have always been a little higher priced than Challengers (10-15%??)

 

[pschlosser]

IMO, 35K is low for a 1971 car, especially if most of the trim is in place.

The more desirable cars were/are the 1970 and 1971 model years. For the Barracuda line, 1971 is actually 20-30% more, because of its unique design elements. Even back in the 1980s, the 1972 and later E-bodies were trending as a compromise. Meaning, a person owned and drove (for example) a 1973, because they could not find or afford a real 1970 car.

The majority of cars discussed on this forum, seem to be 1972 and later cars. Why? Because IMO most of the 1970 and 1971 cars were driven, eventually wrecked, and went to the crusher. All that now remains, for the most part, are the "less desirable" model years. The days of owning a factory original 440-6 or 426 Hemi car, restoring them at some expense, and then having something they can sell for more than they paid for it are going, going and gone. What remains are tribute cars, engine swaps, after market parts, and so forth.

But I don't really care. We work with what we have, budget-wise and car availability. These cars, are still pretty darn cool and prestigious, regardless the model year and OEM originality.

In terms of value, OEM trim parts are getting really hard and tedious to find. So the more complete a car is, in terms of trim, items, option packages, etc., the more it is worth. Mechanical function can almost always be repaired. But a missing part is harder, in many cases, to resolve. How well a car runs is of lesser importance than it being closer to complete.

With just about any car, the nicer the condition of the body (lesser or no rust, shiny paint, factory color, etc.) the more attractive-looking the car, the more the car is worth. Rusty trunk bottoms are common. A car abandoned to a field will be rusted as all get out. Can this be repaired? Anything can, given deep enough pockets. If the car is going to be of great value, once restored (like an original 426 car) then the expense becomes trivial. For a tribute car, with an engine upgrade, perhaps less so. For a 1972 or later car, maybe a tad less, compared to an earlier model.

I worry time is running out. Time to own, restore and drive a petrol-fueled vehicle. In 10 years, I would not be surprised if the majority of after market parts for these cars are no longer available.

So, don't lose sleep over it. Own what you can afford. Don't set your sites too high. For example, buying an original 426 Hemi car, or a Ferrari 365 GTB/4 Daytona, is way out of my league and my budget. So far out, I cannot even consider it. It won't be long, before owning any 1970-1974 E-body car will be out of budget for many of us.

Paying 50k for a car that needs paint, and is missing trim parts, is becoming more and more common, at least in California. Trying to restore that Ferrari, mentioned above, on a budget is probably a lost cause, given its a 500K car. I would love to own and drive one, but cannot afford to do so. The same idea applies to these American-made E-bodies.

IMO, if you can buy an E-body car, and fully restore it for less than 75K, you're doing pretty good. If you don't have, or won't have, a 50K budget to shop for the right car, maybe this isn't the car for you. Sure, you can get lucky, but if you want to get it done, these are the numbers you may need to have. I think we're racing against time, here.

 

[Spyder]

I bought my 72 20 something years ago when I couldn't afford a 70 or 71. By now I've spent more than a 71 in the same shape would cost me.

 

[rklein71]

71 Barracudas are valued more than 70 Barracudas because 71 production was way down in 71. Plymouth made more 70 Cudas than all 71s combined. And 71s are cooler! By the way, auto mags of the day hated the 71 styling.

 

[Xcudame]

I'm recently retired living on 10 acres. I'm in the process of growing corn. This year was only slightly successful ( 3 feet corn). I'm thinking the fertilizer is gone from were I planted. Next year is going to be with more fertilizer. Then I'm growing four or five acres of corn to make ever clear moonshine (distill the mash twice to increase alcohol)! Carburators can be converted to alcohol (you can even buy them from Summit) real easy! Always good to have a backup plan!

If the Challenger you're looking at answers the question you have to ask yourself and all the mechanicals are sound like I said, $34k is probably a good deal. 318s have plenty of power. Especially if you swap on 360 heads and a four barrel intake and carb and a bigger camshaft like a stock 340!