1970 challenger 383 Auto with AC progress thread

[wantonebadebody]

This is what was in the Tank the hose,duct tape all of what you see in the pan? lol
So i took the tank out! Ordered New Sender and grommet for Filler Tube and blew out line and changed rubber hoses at each end.

 

[wantonebadebody]

Not to jump ahead too much but do you guys think i can eliminate the resonators with pipe and dual tip with Valance maybe? for more Sound?

 

[volunteer]

Dam $429! was gonna maybe try and get a base for mine? will see.
What about a edelbrock for now? untill i can fix mine?

The Carter AFB/AVS series obviously do not have a bonafide 'base-plate' - like the Holleys of that era. Your carb is the 625 cfm L.P. model as the H.P. engines had changed to a 735 cfm Holley for '70 and '71.
Good news is that, assuming you have broken piece, (and I see you do), a good TIG welder can repair it. I had one done 20 years ago, by local lady welder, and it was perfect. It was on the opposite front corner. Check around. There should still be plenty of -47.. or -49.. numbered cores out there. I think I have one from a '72 and value to me only $75. so should be around that value most anywhere.

Oh, and P.S. - - by all means upgrade your exhaust and eliminate the round (actually mufflers, not resonators) at the rear and adapt to factory style tips thru dual-cutout valance. H.P. (383) Magnum would have likely had this as stock, but could have been ordered by original owner of your car. As you are discovering, even a very low mile E-body can experience deterioration - - due to age.

 

[moparlee]

Not to jump ahead too much but do you guys think i can eliminate the resonators with pipe and dual tip with Valance maybe? for more Sound?

View attachment 76845

Pretty easy to replace those oval resonators with straight pipe (the ones before the rear axle) and keep the car looking original. That will give you a little more rumble but putting on the dual tips won't do anything.
IMO, keep those mufflers with the turn downs and keep the plain valance. You just don't see very many cars ordered with that configuration anymore.

 

[wantonebadebody]

Pretty easy to replace those oval resonators with straight pipe (the ones before the rear axle) and keep the car looking original. That will give you a little more rumble but putting on the dual tips won't do anything.
IMO, keep those mufflers with the turn downs and keep the plain valance. You just don't see very many cars ordered with that configuration anymore.

True , i was either gonna leave it or do the valance with tips minus rear resonators.

 

[moparlee]

True , i was either gonna leave it or do the valance with tips minus rear resonators.

Ok, but the rears are mufflers, not resonators.

 

[wantonebadebody]

Ok, but the rears are mufflers, not resonators.

So there Mufflers I have 4? i never New that. thanks!

 

[moparlee]

So there Mufflers I have 4? i never New that. thanks!

Two oval resonators in front of the axle and two round mufflers in the rear.

 

[budascuda]

Where is all that crud in the filter coming from?

 

[volunteer]

Ok, but the rears are mufflers, not resonators.

Umm - I already offered that info - but, alas, nobody reads my posts anyway.

 

[wantonebadebody]

Where is all that crud in the filter coming from?

The Tank silly

 

[budascuda]

The Tank silly

Oh yes of course, that thing, so you knew about the source of the rust and still used the old tank?
Time to get a new one, change the lines as well.

 

[340challconvert]

Mine was so bad, it had rusted through from sitting and condensation. I replaced the tank and sending unit to eliminate issues.

Some remnants of a part number on top of the old tank.

 

[wantonebadebody]

My tank was Not rusted inside it was cleaned out abd beautiful so please dont assume

Oh yes of course, that thing, so you knew about the source of the rust and still used the old tank?
Time to get a new one, change the lines as well.

Absolutly no reason to change the Tank or lines, The Tank cleaned up mint inside and out.
This car has 53k miles on it and ha been in AZ all its life. even the Tank pad is still perfect.

 

[340challconvert]

That is great, happy that you were able to clean up the original tank.

 

[budascuda]

Absolutely,........no reason......
Ha ha .....ha, I am rolling around on the floor as I am laughing!
TANKS very much I needed that!
Ok,ok, you are absolutely right. lets not assume any thing, none at all ! ;

Tell me, did you assume that you got ALL the rust out of the 50 year old tank..... AND assume that its the end of it for the rust? ..... I could go on but I will finish with a story,

An old mechanic friend of mine once told me; "when I am buying an old car and see new parts on it, good chance somebody cares for the car"
True, there are many different parts you could replace or upgrade, but a gas tank is not JUST a part, not just some container you put gas in to make the car go!
its a part that could potentially put lives in danger, so it has to comply with many safety factors . there are many issues that lead to tank failure, for instance, being exposed to the elements from outside AND inside, compounded with age, damage....., could cause metal fatigue in the press welded seams and other areas which are not visible in a regular inspection.
It's a good idea to have a new tank, if you can afford it(just a couple hundred bucks) especially if you already have rust developing inside(which means the inner walls of the tank have lost their anti oxidation coating). For the sake of originality, you could keep the old tank, thats all.

And now, 2 picture if you please;
1) imagine a red Ferrari pulling into a mechanic's shop and after raising the car, an old gas tank is exposed underneath! (Also with slight curb damage to the tank)
2) imagine the same car on the hoist with a new gas tank and new lines!

Tell me, which car appears to look safer, and more presentable?

Also, I am not a gas tank dealer, a promoter nor a sales agent there of.

 

[volunteer]

I do not know much about the car in question, however, 'generically speaking', I will offer more advice - based on failures and successes over the past 50 years of Mopar. Any 50 year old car is going to have deterioration issues - no matter how little the Odometer has turned. Original poster is on right track by going thru the entire fuel system. IF the inside components of the sending unit are perfectly clean and shiny then it's a good bet the rest of the tank is the same way. Once removed and residual fuel is carefully drained out, any brown color will of course indicate rust inside. A (battery) light ie: tac-lite can be pointed into fill pipe opening and then visual inspection done via the sending unit flange. I am sure O.P. already has done this. If tank is clean inside there is nothing to prevent its' continued use - providing new fill pipe grommet and sending unit seal are installed. Lines to the NEW fuel pump can be blown out easy enough.
No need to replace unless rusting from outside and judging from cleanliness of underbody, I'd expect the lines to be good. What I would suggest is to install a (metal) fuel filter before the NEW fuel pump - to complement the one already between pump and carb.
I'd love to see photos of the engine bay area. One more tip to consider would be to change all of the car's fluids: coolant, oil, P.S. brake, tranny and rear. You usually do not have to tear apart all four brakes - if pedal feels good. Replacing the fluid will remove the (possibly) old, deteriorated fluid, but, based on condition of the rest of the car, I'd guess there was regular servicing done by previous owner(s). Also, when you jack up and turn each wheel, someone can press on brake pedal - to feel how each is affected. No need to have engine running. Is there a 'build-sheet' - or could it possibly be still underneath either front or rear seat bottom? After fuel and brakes there is the cooling system - primarily radiator, but also water pump, thermostat and hoses.