1970 Cuda - New Go Mango

[DetMatt1]

It all looks great, nice work!

 

[Cazbah362]

Quapman - you need to use the buttons to do that, I did a little, this is an area one must definitely read and learn about.

Thanks - this gauge cluster is making me like the car a whole lot more - very cool

 

[rbbruno3]

Yes, your cluster did come out nice

 

[pentastarnut]

nice work man

 

[Cazbah362]

So, have not posted much lately, seems there has been a lot going on. Here is the progress: First, I have the car out driving, so that is a big deal to me. With driving, you start working the bugs out. I had a pretty substantial oil leak which was driving me crazy. Started by changing the pan gasket from a traditional dual cork and the crappy 440Source windage tray to a modern all in one system. This worked for most of the leaks, but still had one at the front of the engine. Only things I could figure is the factory cover was flexing too much with the roller cam or the fuel block off was leaking.

To fix these, pulled the fuel block off which looked like it may have caught and flexed on the pump rod hex nut? Tightened the hex nut, flattened the plate and installed a new gasket. For the timing cover, I bought a AR Engineering cover (expensive) and installed it. After a quick driver in the neighborhood, seems the Valdez is fixed.

As for updates and upgrades, what lead to me finding the leak was taking the car to a welder to install the torque boxes, frame connector, roll bar and well up the TTI exhaust. The guy did a bang up job and definitely welds WAY better than I do. I bought and installed the TTi with their bands. This worked well, but had a bit of leaks for the wideband. As for the USCarTool torque boxes and frame supports, well the welder said not the best of pieces, but they worked. Car seems to be a lot more stiff. Also installed 5 point harnesses from Summit. Yes, a bit of overkill, but wife wouldn't ride with with me with lap belts.

Next on the agenda is some electrical gremlins. I think I will be doing a LED taillight upgrade during this time. Also, bought a 2012 5.7 from a manual Challenger. This will be the winter project. Right now scrounging up all the items to drop this in. At this time have the engine, Hemi EFI Gold Box, LS throttle body adapter and flywheel and clutch. A this time, I just want to drop the engine in and get it driving. Down the road I will decide how much HP etc is needed for my driving pleasure. Between now and winter, I will be doing small items, like changing the Areomotive dual pressure regulator and possibly installing an SRT radiator and fan system.

Well that is it, almost 9am here, wife says I can start the car only after then - pesky neighbors

Off to burn some 100 octane - found at one of the local pumps......

CP

 

[Cazbah362]

Car has been fun lately, so thought I would change small things. This weekend I found a Fitech 600 on CL, brand new so i purchased it. Spent the day installing it, really only took a few hours. Luck would have it, I had the TanksInc pump and an AN8 system installed, so install went fast. After basic install, fired right up, albeit a little rough and lot rich. After a few minutes, balanced it out and ran fair. Since I locked it out and had the system managing the timing, I set it and idled like a champ. Now we are in the learning phase. Here is a video:



and some photos:


Only question I have now is what is a good AF Ratio for a 470?

 

[Cazbah362]

Well I got bored with the 470 and decided to sell it to do a gen III swap. With the funds from the 470, I purchased all the parts needed to make the swap, here are some pictures:

 

[pentastarnut]

sweet, what are you going to use for an ecu ?

 

[Cazbah362]

I went with the EFI Source Gold box. Right now I am sourcing parts, so far have the box, TTI Headers, Schumacher mounts, pan and scatter shield. Clutch and shield are giving me a little bit of sourcing anxiety. I have a GM TKO (many swaps use Ford), so had to purchase a new 130t flywheel. Also, dipstick is a little bit of an issue. My understanding is Bouchillon Performance has one of these, so at this time awaiting flywheel and dipstick parts.

Headers arrived yesterday, so finding the small details for fitment as we speak. The dipstick is one, a bolt on the mount is the second. Bolt looks simple, dang dipstick is a wet hot mess. But so far these are the "big deals," which if this is it, this swap should be real simple. (I bet I jinxed myself here)

I did run the EFI cabling, really all I have had the time for. On the physical side (box, connectors, plug ins) this thing is well thought out. I will keep everyone posted as I go.

As for the cooling, I think I will be using Champions 26' swap radiator

 

[pentastarnut]

coolness, i'll be watching

 

[Cazbah362]

Well I am in wait mode for a flywheel. I went with an aluminum flywheel from RAM, so I will post on the results once up and moving. While I am waiting, I was fixing little issues which I thought I would share. First issue was blocking EGR port on the exhaust. For some reason I ordered 6.1 headers and not 5.7. After speaking with TTI I learned the only difference is the EGR port, 5.7 motors have them on the passenger side, 6.1 and 6.4's do not. To block it, I simply tapped a 1/2-13 plug into it.

Next small issue is the bolts on Schumachers mounts. They provide only one button cap hex bolts for clearance and you really need two, one for the drivers side mount where the mounts joint and one above it to clear TTI's headers. No big deal, just sourcing a button head hex bolt is a PITA in a smaller town.

My exhaust with the 470 was 3.5 from the flange to 3 with an H pipe dumping at the rear axles. Worked well for the 470, but I would have to cut the 3.5 reducers and re-weld, etc... I decided to order an X pipe from TTI and will re-build the system going from a 2.5 to 3 system still dumping at the rear axles. Suppose to gain more power with the X pipe, but this is a stock 2012 5.7 with headers, tune and 92mm body. Guesstimation on HP is about 460ish, so 3' exhaust may be a little much (but growth for future upgrades? - should I have went with 6.4 headers? - hmm)

Another item I will be using is an Ebay LS cable throttle body. After speaking with EFI Source, this seems to be a practical alternative to sourcing pedals, etc to keep the 5.7 drive by wire system. Believe it or not, was told the Ebay bodies performed very well? Again, we will see.

Like with the flywheel, I will share the end result -

 

[Cazbah362]

Dropped in the engine this weekend, this was a little tougher than I thought, especially doing it by yourself. First, tried with the transmission attached and with a leveler, no luck - but I did get gear oil everywhere!. So, unbolted the trans and it dropped in place pretty easy.

Headers are another story. First, the TTI's fit awesome! Took a little wiggling and adjusting, but went in easy. Passenger side I could have slid in from the bottom. Now, bolting them up, well that's a different story. Find a Russian acrobat with thin hands and who can contort to many different positions. I am only 2/3 through bolt installations as we speak, should finish today.

Another issue I have is this engine is a 2012 from a Challenger (LX motor). With the alternator on, it touches the frame rails ever so slightly. Options are one, lift it up and out, cut and re-install, option two is the purchase a extended reversible cut off wheel from company like Eastwood. Option three, read someone elses blog who has done this type of install before, and pre-cut before install. Well, I am a little lazy so I went with option two. I would recommend option three to everyone else.

Final learning point to date, - TKO's and the difference. Like I said, GM transmission. Well, lets have a discussion on pilot bearings. Did you know Mopar pilots are ID are .751 and GM's are .590, well me neither. Finding a pilot with the 1.816 OD and the .590 ID is a not an easy deal, and again you are down to options. Still weighing my options out as this post is being typed, will keep you posted.

 

[Cazbah362]

Well have the engine, harness in with everything but the radiator hooked up. I could not decide on which radiator to go with, so decided to call Ledfoot Racing (Champion). They suggested a CC375 26' system, so purchased that with fans, should be here next week.

I also used the Eastwood 4' cut off wheel to trim by the alternator. Worked great, but wanted to minimize the amount of steel to remove, so have a few sharp edges. If I ever remove anything, I will clean it up - until then it stays.

Well, I went with a Mopar oil filter extension and used their filter. great set up, but filter is about an inch to long, so will have to do something creative when oil change time comes. I seen a post for a smaller type filter, but not sure on the final system type. I have a new Oberg system sitting on the shelf, may install that?

Headers - well its a love hate relationship, longest part of the install, biggest pain in the @$$, and make you wish your wifes skinny small hands could come help you install items at times. And installing the crank trigger - well, I am going to suggest a little pig tail you plug in prior to installing everything. This would save a lot of hardship (well for me it would have).

On closing, should have it fired this weekend (without radiator), then we can start working the bugs out. Here is a picture of my progress to date.

 

[Cazbah362]

Worked through some of the small stuff such as tucking wiring up, installing an LS throttle cable, and various other items to get it fired. Nice thing is it fired real fast - like nearly on the first crank. Since I don't have a radiator, only ran it for a few seconds. Sounds good, I have an issue with #2, I am thinking an injector is down. Intake sat around for probably a year or so with fuel in it and fuel port not covered, so.... Also, AIT is not hooked up, apparently this is a deal in the EFI world. Ordered a Spectre system from Ebay, so again awaiting parts.

Cool thing is this has 70 pounds of oil pressure at idle and I hooked up to TunerStudio on my MacBook.
Getting a little burnt, so will be nice to take a break as I wait for parts, will keep the progress posted.

 

[Cazbah362]

The following is to help the next persons who do a similar build. I had a very hard time finding credible information on the internet related to radiators, hoses and what worked. With that in mind, maybe this will help the next person. Again, my build is with a Gen 3 LX motor (2012 Challenger), manual (Non-vvt), and I had a 26" brass factory big block radiator originally with a passenger side 1.5 upper and a driver side 1.75 inlet lower.

To start changing things, I purchased installed a Champion CC375B radiator. This appears to be the same size and dimensions as my 26" brass factory radiator, so my justification for doing it is - its lighter, modern and easily adapts dual fans. When I purchased this, I talked with LedFoot racing asking for a "swap radiator," the CC375B is what they recommended. With that said, I asked what hoses they used - response was - I don't know, go to a parts store, measure and check. I called Champion, same general response. I them called Bouchillon - well that response is a whole other story, and not pleasant nor helpful.

So after going to a parts story many times, here is my solution: The upper radiator hose I used was a Gate 22900 - I trimmed it about 6 inches and perfect fit. Lower hose I used a combination of the old BB upper hose, old factory 5.7 hose attached to the motor, a 1.5 to 1.75 adapter\reducer, a piece of 1.5 aluminum radiator tubing. I spliced them together using the 90 degree 1.75 portion of the upper hose from radiator to bend, then trimmed 5.7 hose back, spliced with pieces of aluminum and 1.5 adapter\reducer. I get it this is a little "June Bugging," but it worked for me, only costing me the price of aluminum hose and adapter ($5, and $8 respectively).

As a side note, I understand an SRT lower hose may work. I went to dealer, but one was not available. Down the road I may order and attempt to verify this to correct my "June Bug" approach.

I do hope this helps someone else down the road.

V/r
CP

 

[Cazbah362]

Finally nearly to the point where I can take her for a shake out run. Exhaust is on, fluids are filled, and the thing idles at about 850rpm. Right now I am awaiting LeFoot's shipment of 12" fans. Once out on shake-out run, I can check and validate some concerns.

First concern is the alternator. To put a 2012 alternator in these, you need to use the pre-70's voltage regulators. I have a 220 alternator, which concerns me a little. I have done some wiring modes, like amp meter bypass, headlight relays, and minimization of other accessory areas. I have also thrown multiple body/frame/engine grounds to help out. At the trunk mounted battery, it starts with about 13.8 and works it way up to about 14.2, this creep concerns me.

With this exhaust (TTI 5.7 headers, 3" with X-pipe and Summit Turbo's), sounds like a modern car - subtle rumble at idle, roar at WOT (which comes quick, definitely need a rev-limiter), now the wife may hang out with me?

During shake-out, I will also do some tuning, seems really what shake-out will be. The 6.1 tune worked well for start-up, but now I am noticing small things like idle, a little air stutter do to the 92mm, and to work on the fuel MAP better. Also, the 6.1 did not have VVT, this motor does, so need a few passes to check, change and verify. I am going to mix some 100 octane with 91 to bring up octane.

This is the plan as of now, here is a picture of the engine bay - Also need to do some cleaning, picture makes it look a little dirtier than really is in person - I will work on that.

CP

 

[Cazbah362]

Finally had a chance to install the fans and do a quick run down the highway. First, I noticed the water temperature sender was way off from Dakota Digital, this discovery was while driving. Due to this, I simply turned the fans on and headed home. Once home, I found the sender unit was NOT a GM but a >85 Chrysler type. Since the engine did not "officially" warm up based on the computer standards due to this issue, I had no tuning. At home, and once warmed self tuning came on and only got to work on the idle. I also set the RPM to 6400 not 6000, I will need to wire in the shift light to the Dakota gauges.

Before the run, I noticed a water leak and small oil leak, after the run - no leaks and plenty of fluids still in the proper place? Hmm - I really doubt I am that lucky. I figured the water leak came from the engine heater cross-over. I simply crossed the left and right banks with heater hose from the big block.

Also, the alternator I was quipping about earlier. Well it spiked to 15, dropped to 13ish, bounced for a while, then settled at 12.4 - looks like i will get to invest in a Napa brand really soon - luckily I will have a core and bonus - I can clean up the fine metal work I did while clearing it as described earlier in the post's. But driving it until it drops -

Its Hot August Night here and I will get to make a showing!! Looking forward to it!

CP

 

[Cazbah362]

Well weekend was semi productive, had the opportunity to take the car out for a few shake down run and to a local car show. Car ran great in town as well as down the highway. As I learn to use the self-tuning side of the software and apply the settings, the car really starts to become much more enjoyable. Power at the low end is phenomenal and not what I fully expected. With the BB, 1st gear was generally non-existent. Now 1st gear allows some "driving" time and there are definitely not as many shifts. I can down shift on the freeway between 4th to 3rd for power.

One thing I spoke about in my earlier post was the aluminum flywheel. Right now I am not fully sure. initially with the tune not correct, it was a little bit of a bear not stalling or driving when cold. As the tune improves (fuel map), it becomes easier to drive and enjoy. So more to come on this.

Another item is weight. I am guesstimating I reduced about 200 lbs with the swap, please note this is not all "motor." Things like aluminum flywheel, aluminum radiator are included in this guesstimate. The BB had iron 452's etc, so there was some weight on that beefy pig. Things I noticed so far is the ride height of the front end which is about 2" higher and the steering. The nose moves a lot easier and is way more nimble. With this new found height and agility, need to do some adjusting. This brings me into plans for the future, so here they are:

1. Back seat - need to wrap the lower seat around the roll bar, deadening material etc
2. Radio - with the new exhaust, I believe we can now enjoy one
3. AAR stripes
4. Rear view mirror - any have one for sale?
5. Wipers arms and blades -
6. Digital headlights
7. AAR/Rallye lights and that little plastic piece in the lower grille?
8. Wheels and Tires - really like the year one 17's soooo and like the new Weld 5 spokes - going to be a battle
9. Engine - Possible Arrington 5.7 heads with a 270 cam (I found a 2012 truck engine, its now in my garage for "research purposes")
10. Pro-charger
11. Dana? maybe, I may look at some form of traction control through the computer. Older 9.25's have toner rings and I believe the Ford 8.8's do the same?

Always open for suggestions -

Well here are some pictures of the car at the show this weekend

 

[quapman]

I'm amazed at how much you get done in such little time.

Have you spoken with anyone at Arrington? I think they do a boatload of these new Hemi swaps.

 

[Cazbah362]

Quapman, thanks, yes lots of after work time and weekend time goes into it, now that summer is waning, may slow down a bit. As for speaking with Arrington, no just looking at their site. I am a little perplex on the little data out there on the Eagle heads. I was also looking at the Edelbrocks, but the cost a bit more so not sure:

Edelbrock Performer RPM Chrysler Gen III HEMI Cylinder Heads

My theory is for power, the best heads will get you there, so don't skimp in this area - I am fully open to ideas. I do think I will be calling\IMing IQ52 soon to get his help, really I he's the pro, so that would be more logical than window shopping. - Thoughts?