318 LA Build specs

[RB.Challenger73]

Before i start about the engine specs i wanne say that i got a number matching car. I'm not engine swapping the car or replacing the trans. I'm Dutch so be gentle if i make mistakes English isn't my first language. Also i'm quite new to american cars and i don't much about specs.

History
The engine is getting rebuild and fully cleaned and inspected, but i wanne add some hp to make it more impressive to drive. I drove the car a couple of times and find out the car was running gd on 6 cilinders. So after the rebuild and added parts i'm sure it would run way better then i'm used 2.

Goal
I'm ranging for 300hp, i see topics and builds for 400hp but the car is getting used for fun street drives.

Components

Pistons:
kb167ktm

Intake manifold:
Edelbrock performer RPM 7576

Carb
Edelbrock performer 1406 600cfm

Cam
Edelbrock performer rpm cam and lifter kit 7177

Headers:
Summit Racing™ Metallic-Ceramic Coated Headers SUM-G9140

Are the listed components a good combination for a 318 la to reach 300hp/400hp? And is it reasonable with a standard 727 trans.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I would start with none of the Above parts !

Use a Forged piston Not the KB Hyperutectic , make sure you increase the compression .

A better intake is the LD4B which has the smaller ports to match the 318 heads . or the stock 340 intake is good also although the port size is different , you can port the entrance of the intake port to aid flow into the head .

The 1406 carb is junk & doesn't work well on Mopars & is not easily tuned , a better choice is the Holley 400 CFM 4 bbl or the Holley Avenger 570 CFM .

For the cam I would use a smaller Lunati VooDoo series , they are a far better choice for power & drivability we can help you pick a good one to match the converter you want to use .

I would use TTI as a first choice for headers Dougs would be a secnd choice or the Hooker 5115 , all other headers have the steering going through the header & lack ground clearance .

Personally I would store the original 318 & build a 360 /408 ci stroker !

 

[RB.Challenger73]

I would start with none of the Above parts !

Use a Forged piston Not the KB Hyperutectic , make sure you increase the compression .

A better intake is the LD4B which has the smaller ports to match the 318 heads . or the stock 340 intake is good also although the port size is different , you can port the entrance of the intake port to aid flow into the head .

The 1406 carb is junk & doesn't work well on Mopars & is not easily tuned , a better choice is the Holley 400 CFM 4 bbl or the Holley Avenger 570 CFM .

For the cam I would use a smaller Lunati VooDoo series , they are a far better choice for power & drivability we can help you pick a good one to match the converter you want to use .

I would use TTI as a first choice for headers Dougs would be a secnd choice or the Hooker 5115 , all other headers have the steering going through the header & lack ground clearance .

Personally I would store the original 318 & build a 360 /408 ci stroker !

Which kind of forged pistons would u recommend?

I read about the LD4B and the Weiand Stealth Intake Manifolds 8022WND that there almost indentical. The LD4B is less easy available then the weiand, would that be a gd alternative?

Is 400cfm as carb enough for 300hp range?

My knowledge isn't enough to give an answer about the converter. I still got the build sheet idk if u can get information from that?

Thank your for the suggestions about the headers! I can search in those brands.

Because the car is number matching and i wanne build the original engine i'm not ganne swap engines like i mentioned.

 

[Xcudame]

I'd use stock 340/360 "J" heads (1971 - 1974). Stock 340/360 four barrel intake would work well! Personally, I'd get a 340/360 spread bore intake and run a Thermoquad carburator! Another good choice is the Holley Street Dominator carb which will work on any 4bbl intake manifold.

Like I said in the Welcome Wagon, the stock 340 camshaft would be good! I have no issues with a Lunati Voodoo cam in the . 450" lift range.

You'll have less hassle with TTI headers. They cost more, but are worth the less aggravation as they will install easier. The others Chryco mentioned will work as well.

Pistons: I don't have any issues with Keith Black pistons (you need to follow their top ring gap dimensions!), but you can get some good forged pistons as well.

Obviously a 360/408 will get you 300 HP easier, but you can squeeze that much out of a stock stroke 318 pretty easy with the above parts. Remember, iron heads you want about 9 to 9.5:1 compression. What kind of octane gas do you have in the Netherlands? 87 octane - 9:1 compression ratio, 91 to 93 octane for 9.5:1 compression ratio.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

TRW / Speed Pro , Diamond , There are many good Piston companies Forged is not a lot more $$ but a far better piston , The biggest part i to find a piston that makes good compression , the 340 was 10 :1 , No reason why the 318 can't be as well but they were not 10:1 from the factory .
I would look for a cam in the .480 lift range but 225* @ .050

The Weiand intake is good also , the 400cfm is a bit small but it would be very responsive Up to 4500 RPM or so .

Changing the converter to a higher stall can help a lot with the power by letting the engine get some RPM Before it applies load to the engine , a 2200 - 2400 stall would work well

 

[RB.Challenger73]

I'd use stock 340/360 "J" heads (1971 - 1974). Stock 340/360 four barrel intake would work well! Personally, I'd get a 340/360 spread bore intake and run a Thermoquad carburator! Another good choice is the Holley Street Dominator carb which will work on any 4bbl intake manifold.

Like I said in the Welcome Wagon, the stock 340 camshaft would be good! I have no issues with a Lunati Voodoo cam in the . 450" lift range.

You'll have less hassle with TTI headers. They cost more, but are worth the less aggravation as they will install easier. The others Chryco mentioned will work as well.

Pistons: I don't have any issues with Keith Black pistons (you need to follow their top ring gap dimensions!), but you can get some good forged pistons as well.

Obviously a 360/408 will get you 300 HP easier, but you can squeeze that much out of a stock stroke 318 pretty easy with the above parts. Remember, iron heads you want about 9 to 9.5:1 compression. What kind of octane gas do you have in the Netherlands? 87 octane - 9:1 compression ratio, 91 to 93 octane for 9.5:1 compression ratio.

Most problem i have picking parts is availability, if i search for thermoquad i find carbs that's out of production. Intake manifold i lean towards weiand.

I'm gonna search for a cam in those durations.

Thank you for the info about the easy install on those headers.

I understand forged are better, i read a lot about kb pistons in other builds so i assumed that was a cheap alternative.

Most common gas is e5 that has (according to google) 98 octane and we got even more expensive gas with 112/115 octane

 

[RB.Challenger73]

TRW / Speed Pro , Diamond , There are many good Piston companies Forged is not a lot more $$ but a far better piston , The biggest part i to find a piston that makes good compression , the 340 was 10 :1 , No reason why the 318 can't be as well but they were not 10:1 from the factory .
I would look for a cam in the .480 lift range but 225* @ .050

The Weiand intake is good also , the 400cfm is a bit small but it would be very responsive Up to 4500 RPM or so .

Changing the converter to a higher stall can help a lot with the power by letting the engine get some RPM Before it applies load to the engine , a 2200 - 2400 stall would work well

I did find a Hughes Performance 24-25HD 67-Up Mopar Stall Converter, 11 Inch with a 2000, 2500 and 3000 stall option. So the 2500 would be a good option?

 

[Xcudame]

Since you're in the design phase, you need to ask yourself, do you want to stick with your stock 318 cylinder heads? If so, then they will need a decent port and polish job and new valves. With the stock heads, you need either a LD4B or stock 360 four barrel intake (there will be port mis-match as the 318 cylinder heads have smaller ports than the 360 intake manifold. That's why the LD4B is a good choice. And yes, the Weiland intake will get the job done! Stock 318 heads will need the .480 lift 220 duration.

I really dislike the fact that the aftermarket industry lists torque converters with a stall rpm (2000, 2500, 3000) because it's meaningless unless you know torque output they're recommending that torque converter for. Long story short, the same torque converter with have a different stall speed behind a stock 318 than a stroked 440 to 500 cubic inches!

Found these heads on eBay. Which isn't unreasonable for a set of remanufactured iron heads.

Set Of Mopar 340/360 (915) - (J) High Performance Engine Cylinder Heads | eBay

<p>Set Of Mopar 340-360 (915) - (J) High Performance Engine Cylinder Heads. </p>

www.ebay.com

Then you have to ask, can you afford a pair of aluminum heads? Then you can get 10:1 or 10.5:1 forged pistons a stockish 340 camshaft and easily make 300 horsepower!

So, what is your budget? What do you want to keep stock (block of course and maybe heads)? It's definitely harder for you to get parts in the Netherlands than here in the States.

 

[Tig]

We used the KB 167 + 0.030" They work OK and will take a little N2O IF you gap the rings correctly. Our little 318 has run 13.88 (N/A) in full street trim at just under 100mph. With the 3.23 rear we are still in 2nd gear using a 6000 rpm shift. If it had 3.90 or numerically higher we would way go quicker, it's my wifes car and it drives real nice on the street. I can give you a run down on the parts we used if you are interested.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

2500 might be too high if you have 3.23 gears , could be ok as well depending on the highway speeds there .

 

[RB.Challenger73]

Since you're in the design phase, you need to ask yourself, do you want to stick with your stock 318 cylinder heads? If so, then they will need a decent port and polish job and new valves. With the stock heads, you need either a LD4B or stock 360 four barrel intake (there will be port mis-match as the 318 cylinder heads have smaller ports than the 360 intake manifold. That's why the LD4B is a good choice. And yes, the Weiland intake will get the job done! Stock 318 heads will need the .480 lift 220 duration.

I really dislike the fact that the aftermarket industry lists torque converters with a stall rpm (2000, 2500, 3000) because it's meaningless unless you know torque output they're recommending that torque converter for. Long story short, the same torque converter with have a different stall speed behind a stock 318 than a stroked 440 to 500 cubic inches!

Found these heads on eBay. Which isn't unreasonable for a set of remanufactured iron heads.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...ZIaipcTQGtnA9ub2BO/Hc/jg==|tkp:Bk9SR7zZjKOmZA

[/URL]

Then you have to ask, can you afford a pair of aluminum heads? Then you can get 10:1 or 10.5:1 forged pistons a stockish 340 camshaft and easily make 300 horsepower!

So, what is your budget? What do you want to keep stock (block of course and maybe heads)? It's definitely harder for you to get parts in the Netherlands than here in the States.

If it's possible i would like to use the stock heads, i can always switch them in a later stage if neccesary. I think the intake is gonna be a weiand so if i read ur post correct the stock heads need then porting and polishing.

So if i understand Chryco Psyco correct i need to check the gears applied to the car and can make a deccision which converter i need.

I don't got a low budget or something but like u said parts are hard to get, if i can get them it's from summitracing and sites like that. Easy for me to let them deliver and they got much parts i need from 1 website.

I prob can get my hands on a builded 318 with trans for €1200,-. It's build with new headers, edelbrock 600cfm carb and edelbrock intake. He don't klnow for sure what the internals are.

 

[RB.Challenger73]

We used the KB 167 + 0.030" They work OK and will take a little N2O IF you gap the rings correctly. Our little 318 has run 13.88 (N/A) in full street trim at just under 100mph. With the 3.23 rear we are still in 2nd gear using a 6000 rpm shift. If it had 3.90 or numerically higher we would way go quicker, it's my wifes car and it drives real nice on the street. I can give you a run down on the parts we used if you are interested.

I wan't an natural aspirated engine if it's possible, the stuff is not easy to acces here

 

[Tig]

I wan't an natural aspirated engine if it's possible, the stuff is not easy to acces here

Ours is naturally aspirated, there has been a lot of hypereutectic piston failures but this has mainly been down to incorrect ring gaps so they get a bad rap. The hypers take a bigger ring gap as KB move the top ring groove closer to the top of the piston which can retain heat more than the std cast or forged pistons designs. Best to follow the piston manufacturers advice for ring end gaps and not the ring manufacturer in this example.
I've previously hit another 318 I built with a 150hp N2O shot and it was fine with the hypers (we even tried a 200 shot but it went no quicker).

To be honest, a built 318 and trans for 1200 euro's is a bargain. I'd go for that and maybe take the heads off to have a check on stuff and verify lobe lift or just chance it and run as is. It would cost more than that to build one. I'm UK based so know how parts can be a PITA to source

 

[RB.Challenger73]

Ours is naturally aspirated, there has been a lot of hypereutectic piston failures but this has mainly been down to incorrect ring gaps so they get a bad rap. The hypers take a bigger ring gap as KB move the top ring groove closer to the top of the piston which can retain heat more than the std cast or forged pistons designs. Best to follow the piston manufacturers advice for ring end gaps and not the ring manufacturer in this example.
I've previously hit another 318 I built with a 150hp N2O shot and it was fine with the hypers (we even tried a 200 shot but it went no quicker).

To be honest, a built 318 and trans for 1200 euro's is a bargain. I'd go for that and maybe take the heads off to have a check on stuff and verify lobe lift or just chance it and run as is. It would cost more than that to build one. I'm UK based so know how parts can be a PITA to source

It depends on the condition of the block, the person who's freshen up the block already said he would give me €500,- for the remaining block. And even then i can sell the trans for some money. If the performance parts are in gd condition i can use them and make gd plan for it.

But if i can't use any i wanne have a backup plan with all the parts. If this is the case i wanne use the following parts:
Weiand intake
Holley Street Warrior 0-80457S
Doug's Headers D453
KB Performance Hyper Piston and Ring Kits KB399KTM.STD
Hughes Performance Street Master Torque Converters 24-25HD the 2000 or 2500 depends on the gear

Then only an gd cam if i didnt put anything wrong on the list

 

[Tig]

It depends on the condition of the block, the person who's freshen up the block already said he would give me €500,- for the remaining block. And even then i can sell the trans for some money. If the performance parts are in gd condition i can use them and make gd plan for it.

But if i can't use any i wanne have a backup plan with all the parts. If this is the case i wanne use the following parts:
Weiand intake
Holley Street Warrior 0-80457S
Doug's Headers D453
KB Performance Hyper Piston and Ring Kits KB399KTM.STD
Hughes Performance Street Master Torque Converters 24-25HD the 2000 or 2500 depends on the gear

Then only an gd cam if i didnt put anything wrong on the list

OK, I'd look at the condition of your bores before deciding on a piston std or oversized. The 399s are domed, if you wanted to switch to an aftermarket head later on you may be limiting your choices if you want to keep the CR under 10.5:1, since most seem to be around 60-65cc mark. (depending on year, stock 318 heads can be up to 72cc)
For a cam I'd buy a kit from someone like comp, it has all the correct and matched components. Upgrading the cam usually involves different springs retainer etc. We used this one in our last 318 build:- https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-224-230-hydraulic-flat-cam-k-kit-for-chrysler-273-360.html We had no issues with break in either.
If you are keeping the std 318 heads, I'd at least have them skimmed and some bowl work done if the valves are OK. If the valves need replacing you can fit the 2.02" 1.60" in there, again there would need to be some bowl work at least to match the throats to the bigger valves. They work well as a street head with good velocity if you keep to the 273/318 intake port size and they will open up to the 340/360 size window but be careful of the pushrod "pinch" area.
A stock 318 is weak in 3 areas, intake, compression and cam. Address any or all 3 and they wake up !
HTH's

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Everyone Leans toward Comp Cams , They Do Not make good cams for Mopars unless you like throwing away a good amount of HP !
Stick with Hughes or Lunati For Mopars .

You need to calculate your RPM at highway speed to be sure the RPM is above the converter stall speed so you are not building excess heat with the converter slipping & thus hurting mileage at the same time .

For the minimal price difference I would always choose a forged piston in every engine I have built which is a lot of engines .

 

[Tig]

Everyone Leans toward Comp Cams , They Do Not make good cams for Mopars unless you like throwing away a good amount of HP !
Stick with Hughes or Lunati For Mopars .

You need to calculate your RPM at highway speed to be sure the RPM is above the converter stall speed so you are not building excess heat with the converter slipping & thus hurting mileage at the same time .

For the minimal price difference I would always choose a forged piston in every engine I have built which is a lot of engines .

Yep the Hughes cams tend to have a lot more lift per duration compared to a similar Comp cam and appear to be split duration (though so is the one I listed). I've never tried one or had any dealings with them (I think).
I bought the Comp kit because it was readily available, we have had no previous issues with them and have been happy with it so far. It's faster than it's same lift duration on int/ex counterpart but we're not talking about a race engine here.
For info I had a Hughes converter on it (I don't think it's the same company?) and the little 318 turned that to a metal soup

 

[RB.Challenger73]

I see a lot of oppiones and they are almost all different, i'm not trying to make it an race engine just for better performance. It's now 150bhp and would like it go get near 300hp. If it's 270hp i wouldnt mind either. The engine is taken appart and wanne replace most internals b4 it get put back together. I understand everyone (or olmost) agree about the carb and intake.

the highway speeds here are 100kmh so 62mph, i don't know how much rpm that is don't have the RT cluster. I don't drive there often and i life close to the German border so would be fun to see what it can do on the German Autobahn. Won't do it a lot tho cause it's just for fun drives and don't drive it every weekend. Only in the summer. I got the original broadcast sheet but i don't know where to look for the rear. Also don't know how i can found out tbh

I'm not bonded to any brand so i'm fine with all the suggestions, just want a reliable street car for driving during nice weather.

If u guys suggest parts and are almost all agreeing on i choose those, but if it's hard to get here i choose the ewasy to get parts. The priority are the cam and pistons because the engine is apart so i can let them be replaced directly. Higher compression pistons if it's forged or KB i don't mind, a gd cam to make the carb come out better. Ofcourse i change the headers in this case for Doug's Headers D453. The intake is weiand like most of u guys would agree, i rather have the LD4B but there hard to get here.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Did he say stock?
All the information is mostly good. A 318 300hp is not stock. Parts being affordable or available. is an other thing.
I see 2 way to build a motor. Blueprint spec which is factory spec.More durable. Race which is loose spec. Needs to be rebuilt sooner.
I can almost guarantee the block is twisted. I would get it to a machine shop and get it Aline bored and go from there. What Is Line Boring an Engine? What Is a Line Boring Machine Used For? – Axis Mechanical Group . As others said above I would get a set J heads or any other letter with the 2.02 intake. Install Bronze guides stellite valve seats a harden seat, and good stainless valve. From what I recall with 2.02 valves the pistons have to have a notch and the block also if not bored. I would have to fact check that or someone will. Once that is done I would look at what's going to be used on the rotating assembly. As far as stock rods and pistons to be used. Once you decide I would get it balanced.
Once that is done I would move on the heart beat, the cam. Everything is built around that. I know form the other responses they have built a few more motors than me. XCUDAME,TIG,Chryco Psycho and other.

As myself I touched a lot a motors in the few years when I worked in a machine shop. Block and head work from tractors, car motors, heavy and mining equipment also repair on pipeline work. I'm not claiming to be an expert but what I mentioned I would and did do.
I have owned and drove a lot of 318's They run flawlessly like Swiss watch or a sewing machine. If maintained.
I would put the money where it counts.
Remember the more power more heat.
Come to think of it I don't thing I ever worked on a Deutz.Maybe because their reliable? This is just my 2¢.

 

[Tig]

I see a lot of oppiones and they are almost all different, i'm not trying to make it an race engine just for better performance. It's now 150bhp and would like it go get near 300hp. If it's 270hp i wouldnt mind either. The engine is taken appart and wanne replace most internals b4 it get put back together. I understand everyone (or olmost) agree about the carb and intake.

the highway speeds here are 100kmh so 62mph, i don't know how much rpm that is don't have the RT cluster. I don't drive there often and i life close to the German border so would be fun to see what it can do on the German Autobahn. Won't do it a lot tho cause it's just for fun drives and don't drive it every weekend. Only in the summer. I got the original broadcast sheet but i don't know where to look for the rear. Also don't know how i can found out tbh

I'm not bonded to any brand so i'm fine with all the suggestions, just want a reliable street car for driving during nice weather.

If u guys suggest parts and are almost all agreeing on i choose those, but if it's hard to get here i choose the ewasy to get parts. The priority are the cam and pistons because the engine is apart so i can let them be replaced directly. Higher compression pistons if it's forged or KB i don't mind, a gd cam to make the carb come out better. Ofcourse i change the headers in this case for Doug's Headers D453. The intake is weiand like most of u guys would agree, i rather have the LD4B but there hard to get here.

OK, I'd go with what you got on your list. I'd also go with what Chryco said for "a cam in the .480" lift range but 225* @ .050" The part# I listed is in that range but see what is available off the shelf from your usual suppliers, if you are wanting parts collection to progress quickly. Once the motors built and the converter replaced you can see how it performs and change other stuff to suit if and when needed.