318 LA Build specs

[RB.Challenger73]

Blah blah blah!

Did he say stock?
All the information is mostly good. A 318 300hp is not stock. Parts being affordable or available. is an other thing.
I see 2 way to build a motor. Blueprint spec which is factory spec.More durable. Race which is loose spec. Needs to be rebuilt sooner.
I can almost guarantee the block is twisted. I would get it to a machine shop and get it Aline bored and go from there. What Is Line Boring an Engine? What Is a Line Boring Machine Used For? – Axis Mechanical Group . As others said above I would get a set J heads or any other letter with the 2.02 intake. Install Bronze guides stellite valve seats a harden seat, and good stainless valve. From what I recall with 2.02 valves the pistons have to have a notch and the block also if not bored. I would have to fact check the or someone will. Once that is done I would look at what's going to be used on the rotating assembly. As far as stock rods and pistons to be used. Once you decide I would get it balanced.
Once that is done I would move on the heart beat, the cam. Everything is built around that. I know form the other responses they have built a few more motors than me. XCUDAME,TIG,Chryco Psycho and other.

As myself I touched a lot a motors in the few years when I worked in a machine shop. Block and head work from tractors, car motors, heavy and mining equipment also repair on pipeline work. I'm not claiming to be an expert but what I mentioned I would and did do.
I have owned and drove a lot of 318's They run flawlessly like Swiss watch or a sewing machine. If maintained.
I would put the money where it counts.
Remember the more power more heat.
Come to think of it I don't thing I ever worked on a Deutz.Maybe because their reliable? This is just my 2¢.

The car is apart because it's getting a revision (don't if i translate it correctly) every part is getting refurbished or replaced if neccesary. I wanne get more hp because some parts are more logical to replace and make it as new. Labor is expensive in the Netherlands so i can let them clean up pistons but if it almost cost the same as new ones why clean up old ones?

I did mentioned stock yeah, block and IF possible heads.

Reason i come here and ask these questions is because i'm new to this area i need to learn everything. So i may say somethings that sound logical or bs to u guys but for me duration lift etc. isn't in my book. I'm willing to learn all about it so that's why i need part suggestions and some explanation.

And if i want completely reliable transportation i take my bike. I think u know what i mean with this, not getting new parts that need to be replaced short after because it's not reliable.

 

[RB.Challenger73]

OK, I'd go with what you got on your list. I'd also go with what Chryco said for "a cam in the .480" lift range but 225* @ .050" The part# I listed is in that range but see what is available off the shelf from your usual suppliers, if you are wanting parts collection to progress quickly. Once the motors built and the converter replaced you can see how it performs and change other stuff to suit if and when needed.

that's the bigger problem the american cars are common here but shops that sell parts for them ain't. Most effective is ordering online and let it ship here, if i find Dutch online stores they add for basic parts almost €200,-/€300,-.

 

[Tig]

that's the bigger problem the american cars are common here but shops that sell parts for them ain't. Most effective is ordering online and let it ship here, if i find Dutch online stores they add for basic parts almost €200,-/€300,-.

I hear ya, I usually get US parts sent to a buddy who is in Louisiana and then he sends the stuff over, he has a race engine shop so I get a lot of race stuff from him. I also think it's a good idea to get the block checked for squareness and you will have to have the rotating assembly balanced with new pistons as per Challenger RTA's suggestions
This link pretty much covers the basics for cams:
Understanding Cam Lobe Fundamentals: A Guide For Beginners | JEGS
HTH's

 

[Xcudame]

Without going into tons of details, I think the parts you have chosen will work, but I'd use the Howard camshaft below with the valve springs they recommend.

Howards Cams 718001-09: Hydraulic Flat Tappet Rattler Camshaft 1964-2003 Chrysler 273/340/360 - JEGS

This Hydraulic Flat Tappet Rattler Camshaft from Howards Cams is designed for use with 1964 to 2003 Chrysler engines, from 273 to 360.

www.jegs.com

You can also get great parts like Cloyes timing sets and Sealed Power lifters cheap from Rockauto.

1973 DODGE CHALLENGER 5.2L 318cid V8 Engine Parts | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Be sure to gap the top piston rings per Keith Blacks recommendations. And definitely get the block machined so everything is blueprinted (square, correct dimensions, cylinder bores nice and round, etc.). Done right, the 318 will last for many thousands of kilometers(miles) and years. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[mrmopar340]

The old six pack mopar performance cam would probably work well if you are doing a close to stock rebuild. Bigger valves would be a bonus as well. Done right it will probably be the last time you would go into the motor. It's like painting, prep is key to engine building.

 

[RB.Challenger73]

The entire engine is getting checked en machined by a guy i know who's doing it for the last 16 years. I think it's safe to assume he wil check everything like he should be (i hope). If there's more info available i let u guys now. Think i got a lot info i can look at, thank you to all of u.

 

[mrmopar340]

The entire engine is getting checked en machined by a guy i know who's doing it for the last 16 years. I think it's safe to assume he wil check everything like he should be (i hope). If there's more info available i let u guys now. Think i got a lot info i can look at, thank you to all of u.

You'll have to do a video of it when you get it running. If I could show you one I would but I can't seem to get one to post on here. If anyone knows how I'll share mine.

 

[Challenger RTA]

You'll have to do a video of it when you get it running. If I could show you one I would but I can't seem to get one to post on here. If anyone knows how I'll share mine.

Post it on YouTube. Then post a link here.
Like this.

 

[mrmopar340]

 

[69bbb7gts]

When deciding on the Piston you have to know the block deck heights. You have to know where the Piston is going to be in the hole so you have to figure out half the crank stroke, the rod length and the compression height of the piston. That will tell you where the Piston is going to sit in the hole. That is critical to deciding which piston you are going to use that combined with the combustion chamber. CC is going to tell you what the compression will be the static compression anyway. Nothing worse than getting a piston in the block at the mock-up stage and finding out you have either too little or too much compression. You have to work around the gas you have and the cam can also help the compression issue also

 

[69bbb7gts]

Once you know the block deck height, you compare the compression height of the piston to see where it is going to be in the hole

 

[Xcudame]

Quick reference to 69bbb7gts' point. When I recently rebuilt a 1970 413 motor, when I measured the pistons from the top of the block, they were about .015 higher than all the calculations! So check everything! It's not a big deal between 9:1 and 9.1:1, but 9:5:1 and 9.8:1 to one with iron heads will compromise timing and horsepower!

And I must add this, your English is a good as mine when typing!!!

 

[aussiemark]

I like the hyperutectic pistons because you use tighter cylinder wall to piston clearance. This prevents blow by and piston slap especially when cold on start up. For a street driven car they are good enough remember the oem used cast pistons and hyperutectic are stronger then those. As mentioned make sure you follow the top ring gap specs for the Keith Black ones. I used Keith Black hyperutectic pistons and Scat I beam rods in my 340 and that combo dropped an impressive amount of weight from my rotating assembly. I went with a Comp Cams XE268H cam the largest cam for a stock converter and managed to find some NOS Chrysler lifters. I also used Comp Cams beehive valve springs part 26986 these are great so many benefits smaller retainer, more retainer to rocker clearance (a problem with LA especially with some aftermarket rockers). If you do go with forged pistons for a street car make sure they are 4032 alloy not 2618.

 

[RB.Challenger73]

I'll will make sure they check the deck height before choosing the pistons, he brings them to a specialist in machining the engine. They can check everything there and provide us with the information we need.

And ty Xcudame! I'll try to translate it as gd as i can.

I think the cam choice according on your opinions:
Xtreme Energy 224/230 Hydraulic Flat Cam K-Kit for Chrysler 273-360

Howards Hydraulic Flat Tappet Rattler Camshaft & Lifter CL718001-09

 

[69bbb7gts]

I have built many motors with hyper pistons for street cars with no problem, you have to go bigger on the top ring for sure going a Little bigger than recommended is not a problem either. I use them because they seem to have better selection for Street builds. Other than that you have to buy a custom forged Pistons which have gone up dramatically in price. A $500 piston 5 years ago is now $900 to $1,000

 

[Ariovistus]

Before i start about the engine specs i wanne say that i got a number matching car. I'm not engine swapping the car or replacing the trans. I'm Dutch so be gentle if i make mistakes English isn't my first language. Also i'm quite new to american cars and i don't much about specs.

History
The engine is getting rebuild and fully cleaned and inspected, but i wanne add some hp to make it more impressive to drive. I drove the car a couple of times and find out the car was running gd on 6 cilinders. So after the rebuild and added parts i'm sure it would run way better then i'm used 2.

Goal
I'm ranging for 300hp, i see topics and builds for 400hp but the car is getting used for fun street drives.

Components

Pistons:
kb167ktm

Intake manifold:
Edelbrock performer RPM 7576

Carb
Edelbrock performer 1406 600cfm

Cam
Edelbrock performer rpm cam and lifter kit 7177

Headers:
Summit Racing™ Metallic-Ceramic Coated Headers SUM-G9140

Are the listed components a good combination for a 318 la to reach 300hp/400hp? And is it reasonable with a standard 727 trans.

Hello. Welcome to the forum. I agree with Chryco on the manifold and Cam choices. I had a 318 in a 1972 Plymouth Barracuda. I Put 70 340 heads and 70 340 Exhaust Manifolds with a 625 Carter AFB and It ran Great! If You could find some Chrysler SB 318 360 190Cc 68Cc Heads that would also help Your Power. Just a suggestion. I like the 70 340 Exhaust manifold better than headers, Just a personal Preference. Best Wishes on Your 318 Build! Ariovistus

​

 

[RB.Challenger73]

I got some pictures of the block torn apart. I think it's safe to say i gatte look for a cam kit with timing chain.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Looks like it missed a stitch in time. But it keep on ticking.

 

[Xcudame]

Those factory "silent" cam gears were a curse and a blessing. Curse because they'd break teeth off and skip timing. A blessing because back in the 80's you could pick up a nice car that ran like crap and was like new with a new timing set!

Definitely time for a rebuild, but nothing sticks out as looking bad.

 

[RB.Challenger73]

I talked with the shop about his findings after he took the engine apart. Currently the block and head is getting machined, and we talked about the parts they he can order already.

He bought the following parts.
KB pistons to get a 10.4.1 compression ( i'll edit it later for the specific type)
Cam with lifter and timing set.
And some small stuff (bearings etc.)

With cam choice he had a mild Melling cam in stock Duration at 050 inch Lift:
214 int./224 exh. 0.444 int./0.466 exh. I can see how this one is and if it's not enough i can switch it for a comp cam kit. I know with these changes it won't make the 300bhp but i will see how this works.

The engine is getting painted mopar red, i know it suppose to be blue but i prefer red because of the color the car is getting painted later on. Further i gatte find some valve covers prob ganne look for some mopar performance.

For now it's getting these upgrades but later i'm adding a weiand intake and 600cfm carb.