71 Callenege - Which sub frame connectors to use?

[grasshopper]

Just started working on my 71 Challenger project. My goal is to start with the frame and work my way through the car. Can anyone recommend good subframe connectors to use? Thanks!

 

[moparleo]

Here you go. Get a rotisserie and then stiffen the chassis as much as you want, starting with subframe connectors.

https://store.uscartool.com/mopar-chassis-stiffening.html

Not the cheapest, but then your Mopar deserves the good stuff.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I hAve always made my own using 1x2" .125 wall rectangular tubing , I put a notch in it to match the floor profile & weld them to the front of the rear frame & the T bar crossmember , very ridgid & cost is about $30

 

[Bill]

I made mine out of some 1x3 tubing. Cut into the rear floor. I flanged and welded where I cut in to to floor add a little more stiffness. Only sticks into the cabin area 1/2".

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Personally I hate the hump under the rear floor carpet which is why I bend the tubing to go under the floor

 

[PST]

I would go with US Cartools also, I believe that they are running a sale right now. You will get a much cleaner look with them.

Thanks

 

[burntorange70]

I am in the make them your self group. If your looking for a set to buy I like the USCartools. Will need a little trimming here and there to make them fit but are very nice when installed.

 

[Mopar Mitch]

I am deciding, also, to eventually install sub-frame connectors to my Challenger. However, I am restricted by club racing rules (SCCA Solo/autocross, and other related clubs), that (1) the floor CANNOT be cut, (2) the attachment points must be to the existing uniboidy frames (front crossmember frame and rear frame rails... they cannot attach to the leaf-spring mount as the Hotckis style does). An important issue I have, since my car rides low to the ground, is ground clearance.... I don't want them hanging low so to possibly bottom-out.

 

[burntorange70]

Have you looked in to the USCartools? Don't need to cut the floor but they weld to it for extra strength.

 

[Mopar Mitch]

According to the SCCA Solo/autocross rules (and other related clubs that I'm active with), the SFC can only be attached (bolted OR welded) front and rear... not welded to the floor board as some of the "contoured floor versions". I'm considering AutoRust Technicians SFC, but I'm a careful buyer... trying to learn the differences and dimensions of all that's out there... I'm not crafty to make my own (although I really like Brad's T/A SFCs as to how he made his) I'd favor that they be wide rather than tall, again, for ground clearance.

 

[burntorange70]

Well that sucks. They got all kinds of stupid rules that don't make any sense like that for drag racing too. Good luck.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

My way of doing it would work perfectly for that , 1x2" .125 wall notched near the center , bent & rewelded to match the floor contour , willnot be visable , I graft it onto the front of the rear frame rail & use a plate on the front crossmember , not hard to make & install

 

[Mopar Mitch]

Chryco Psycho - Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I need to try to find someone who can custom make SFC simlar to what you've described.... slightly bent to fit the floor and low-profile. The Hotchkis are designed that way (although maybe more square in shape... not certain of that) BUT they attach to the rear leaf spring perch and require special mounting for the leafs... not legal or desirable to me. The SCCA Solo E/sprepared rules are supposed to be simple and not requiring advanced welding, etc to the cars... to keep costs relatively down in this class.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

if you have a local shop that does roll bars & chassis work it is a simple thing to do , I did a lot of them for customers , quick & easy