Steve340
Well-Known Member
The dimmer switch also has a position that brings on the interior lights.
It is the position you are talking about I think.
It is the position you are talking about I think.
71 Challenger in AZ
- Thread starter Olacmot
- Start date
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I might make a post in the electrical section regarding this. I can’t stand not being able to fix something, and it’s eating away at me. I may try to file down one of the pieces to make a smoother transition. Don’t want to do that yet if I’m overlooking something though.
Steve340
Well-Known Member
It does take a bit of "effort" to get the switch in to this position.
The interior lights are ON permanently with the switch in this position - so you would not want it to be to easy and you may not notice the lights ON and flatten the battery.
The interior lights are ON permanently with the switch in this position - so you would not want it to be to easy and you may not notice the lights ON and flatten the battery.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
That makes sense. I’ll leave it as is. Thanks for easing my mind and saving me 100 bucks on a switch!
Steve340
Well-Known Member
I hope it does work OK when you get the switch mounted and power on it.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
So, I pulled the dimmer switch apart again to look at it with fresh eyes. When I first put it together i tried to do it with the minimal amount of dielectric grease. I probably didn’t apply enough. I put more under these two tangs that move on the mint green ceramic wheel. I also spread it under the plate those tangs are attached to so it would push grease down under the tangs as it moves. Tangs are indicated with my screwdriver. I also greased the shaft where that plate with the tangs rides, also indicated with my screwdriver.
It is now much easier to get into that CCW position. Posting in case someone else attempts to clean up their dimmer switch. I’ll post results once installed.
It is now much easier to get into that CCW position. Posting in case someone else attempts to clean up their dimmer switch. I’ll post results once installed.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
After nearly a year of being on a jig in my garage, my dash is fully restored and finally back in my car! A tip I wish I’d had before starting the install would be to trim the foam in the defroster ducts away from the screw holes that secure the dash. The foam would prevent the screws from going in straight and they would miss their clips. Total pain in the ass to trim once it’s in the car resting on your lap lol. Also, bending the clips just a bit so they were loose on the steel dash helped the screws thread in way easier. Figured that out on my fourth try to get this thing in snug.
Oh yeah, and don’t forget to install your defroster duct before you put your dash in. Figured that out on my third try
. Luckily I only had one bolt in by the time I realized i forgot to put that duct in.
Still need to put the challenger emblem on and install the bezel and trim… I’ll get to that once I’m done wiring the Dakota digital gauges.
Oh yeah, and don’t forget to install your defroster duct before you put your dash in. Figured that out on my third try
. Luckily I only had one bolt in by the time I realized i forgot to put that duct in. Still need to put the challenger emblem on and install the bezel and trim… I’ll get to that once I’m done wiring the Dakota digital gauges.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
One thing I finished but I’m not completely satisfied with was my vin installation. The vin restoration itself came out great, but when I mounted it, the plush foam below it prevented it from laying flat. I tried twice to get it flat and decided to leave it because I was out of floret rivets and I doubt many people will notice.
Has anyone else had this issue? Should I have trimmed the foam below the vin tag? I think I am going to move on and chalk this up to a learning experience… but I’d be lying to you all if I told you this doesn’t cross my mind when I lay down at night
Has anyone else had this issue? Should I have trimmed the foam below the vin tag? I think I am going to move on and chalk this up to a learning experience… but I’d be lying to you all if I told you this doesn’t cross my mind when I lay down at night
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
OCD? I do it twice so it's twice as nice. I think we all have the 20 20 hind sight. Not everything on the cars was perfect. Hope this allows to sleep at night.
moparlee
Well-Known Member
Maybe you already told us, but who did your dash pad? It looks good.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
I bought it from Year One, who subs it to Al Knoch interiors. I had a question about trimming and modifying it, and called Al Knoch directly. They were super nice and helpful. Also got it back way quicker than I expected.
FWIW; I had purchased one from classic industries and waited a year for it. Lots of follow ups and no updates on lead time. Cancelled the order and bought from year one, got it back in like 3 weeks. Surprisingly fast after the long wait with CI.
FWIW; I had purchased one from classic industries and waited a year for it. Lots of follow ups and no updates on lead time. Cancelled the order and bought from year one, got it back in like 3 weeks. Surprisingly fast after the long wait with CI.
moparlee
Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks. Did they say anything about the tag install?
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
No, I didn’t reach out about it because I figure it’s water under the bridge. If I were to do it again, I might slice a X in the vinyl material under where the vin goes so I could cut out the foam beneath it, but still have the vinyl material under the vin. I think that would reduce the bend in the vin tag.
I also thought maybe leaving a wood working clamp tight on that area to compress the foam overnight might allow you to get the vin on flat.
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