'72 Barracuda 6 to 8
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Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Yes, K member is different.
Not a difficult change over.
I think there are also some mounts that can be used on the slanty K frame but not sure where they are for sale or why use them when a K frame swap is super simple.
Does the car retain it's original 225?
Not a difficult change over.
I think there are also some mounts that can be used on the slanty K frame but not sure where they are for sale or why use them when a K frame swap is super simple.
Does the car retain it's original 225?
Spyder
Member
I'd have a hard time pulling a slant 6 out of an E body. Rare and fun.
Spyder
Member
Big block it is then! 
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
This is among the more common upgrades made to e-bodies, as the original big block cars get more and more scarce as they're driven, raced, wrecked, and crushed.
The slant-6 e-body cars had weaker components compared to original big block cars, but the majority of the "big block-only" parts are still being made (aftermarket) and with some research, and perhaps this forum, you can get the parts you need.
If you want it to LOOK and be as beefy as the "big block original" was, some key components to look for are the K-frame cross member (with skid plate + front sway bar components) and the correct heavy-duty torsion bars.
There are other details to consider, but if you only change (upward) the K-frame and torsion bars, you'd be in pretty good shape.
The slant-6 e-body cars had weaker components compared to original big block cars, but the majority of the "big block-only" parts are still being made (aftermarket) and with some research, and perhaps this forum, you can get the parts you need.
If you want it to LOOK and be as beefy as the "big block original" was, some key components to look for are the K-frame cross member (with skid plate + front sway bar components) and the correct heavy-duty torsion bars.
There are other details to consider, but if you only change (upward) the K-frame and torsion bars, you'd be in pretty good shape.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
You have a great opportunity as when replacing the K-Frame, you can have the engine and transmission along with all the front suspension parts mounted together and drop the body over it! Much easier than trying to install the engine and transmission from the top or dropping the engine in and trying to install the transmission from below. Everyone who has dropped the body over the drive train will never do it another way unless forced to.
Katfish
Well-Known Member
If you plan to drive the car, perfect time for a Gen3 swap.
If just going to local shows, easy enough to go with the old V8s.
If just going to local shows, easy enough to go with the old V8s.
Ricks72Chlgr440
Well-Known Member
Lots of possibilities for you at this point. Likely much of your direction will be how much money you want to put into this. Let us know what you want to do and the folks here can certainly help you and hopefully prevent undue expenses. The car is a system, and the parts you put on must work together for a good outcome!
I was hoping that there was some sort of motor mount that could be used to mount a small or big block. Changing the K-frame is going to take some garage to do it. I'm at the age where that kind of work is in the past for me. We'll see, thanks
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Most opt to change out the K-frame (to the correct big block one) because its heavier duty than the slant-6 K-frame.
The 440 motor (for example) weighs about 40% more (not counting the tranny) than the slant-6. Furthermore, the slant-6 torsion bars just can't hold up the same car with a 440 motor. It will bottom out turning into driveways, and could even punch a hole in the oil pan. Hitting a pothole at highway speed could cause an accident.
For this reason, there has been little demand for "conversion brackets" from a slant-6 to a big block using the slant-6 K-frame. But, there's nothing stopping you from giving it a try. In my experience, when converting from the slant-6 to a big block, torsion bars and K-frame seem the minimum one must change to get the car drivable.
Another key point with using the "correct" K-frame, is there are fewer surprises. Things will just bolt right into place. Working a combination few have completed in the past, tends to create more issues than it solves. For me, I find the frustration of not knowing how to resolve an issue, or the need to tow the car in to a shop to have something conjured and fabricated, just isn't worth it, compared to how nicely things come together doing things the way "the factory did them."
If you're not sure you got the budget to make the conversion, don't feel bad. Many of us are in the same boat. Original parts are becoming more and more scarce. Some of us have to wait years before we can find the right parts at the right price. Some engine combinations (an original 426 Hemi car, for example) are out of my league, budget-wise.
If you want a cool-ish collector car when you're done, a car you can enjoy, and may be able to resell some day and recover the costs, it's not a horrible idea to try and find a replacement slant-6 motor. While this may not afford the prestige some of the other motors offer, it would likely cost you a great deal less to go this route.
You won't find a shortage of opinions asking for advice around here. It's still your call, and we can all respect whatever choice you make.
The 440 motor (for example) weighs about 40% more (not counting the tranny) than the slant-6. Furthermore, the slant-6 torsion bars just can't hold up the same car with a 440 motor. It will bottom out turning into driveways, and could even punch a hole in the oil pan. Hitting a pothole at highway speed could cause an accident.
For this reason, there has been little demand for "conversion brackets" from a slant-6 to a big block using the slant-6 K-frame. But, there's nothing stopping you from giving it a try. In my experience, when converting from the slant-6 to a big block, torsion bars and K-frame seem the minimum one must change to get the car drivable.
Another key point with using the "correct" K-frame, is there are fewer surprises. Things will just bolt right into place. Working a combination few have completed in the past, tends to create more issues than it solves. For me, I find the frustration of not knowing how to resolve an issue, or the need to tow the car in to a shop to have something conjured and fabricated, just isn't worth it, compared to how nicely things come together doing things the way "the factory did them."
If you're not sure you got the budget to make the conversion, don't feel bad. Many of us are in the same boat. Original parts are becoming more and more scarce. Some of us have to wait years before we can find the right parts at the right price. Some engine combinations (an original 426 Hemi car, for example) are out of my league, budget-wise.
If you want a cool-ish collector car when you're done, a car you can enjoy, and may be able to resell some day and recover the costs, it's not a horrible idea to try and find a replacement slant-6 motor. While this may not afford the prestige some of the other motors offer, it would likely cost you a great deal less to go this route.
You won't find a shortage of opinions asking for advice around here. It's still your call, and we can all respect whatever choice you make.
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