72 Challenger Rebuild

[terrywalker]

A couple of more photos
Terry W..

 

[Challenger RTA]

I have never seen an E body that looked bad in any color. The paint fits all the body lines and accessories always accentuate the color. With a black vinyl top. It will be stunning and with out it will have nice clean look.

 

[terrywalker]

I'm using the Rustoleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel for the floor pans. Less than $50 a gallon and does the job of preventing rust. Since we don't get much snow or rain here anyways, the cars tend not to rust very much. The only rust has been in the hood hinge area and a small spot behind the driver's side rear wheel which are repaired with new metal welded in. This car will be a driver, not a show car.

 

[terrywalker]

Removed the front drivers side brake caliper. It was difficult to remove the one bolt requiring me to use a hinge handle breaker bar with an impact socket and using my weight with one foot on the handle to break it loose. Compared the caliper with the remanufactured ones I bought through Autozones. Surprise. They are KH 86166 just like the one I took off and has a lifetime warranty.
Terry W.

 

[terrywalker]

Removed brake rotor today. The one I removed is a KH with a measured thickness of 0.955" using a micrometer. The rotor has the "Minimum Thickness .940" marking on it. The new "Made in China" rotors I bought are 1.000" inches thick. Which should I use?
Terry W.

 

[terrywalker]

Im at a point where I have to make a decision on whether to change this 72 from an automatic transmission to a 4 speed. My wife says "no, leave it an automatic". My grandson who is 18 wants me to make it a 4 speed. I every part need to convert it to manual transmission and I've done this on a 71 Challenger in the past. The automatic is rebuilt and attached to the engine. The engine and tranny are not installed yet. Once I cut the floor hump, there's no going back. This car is not original by any means. What to do? Both 71 Challengers I have are 4 speeds.
Terry W.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Why break what's not broken?

 

[terrywalker]

Started on front suspension repairs. I knew the right front had hit something as the car steered funny 20 years ago when I first owned it. I only had it a few weeks and traded it. Here's what I found today. Driver's side outer tie rod end bent and very loose - just wore out. Inner tie rod end was straight and tight. They both have Mopar part numbers. The inner tie rod end number starts with a faint 2 followed by 835865? and the outer has 2835885 with the 3 backwards. I'm replacing them anyway.
Terry W.

 

[72 340 4spd AC]

Funny, I had a '72 Challenger and I put a '70 grille in it. I really liked the look!

 

[terrywalker]

I want it to be different. Besides, I have a complete 70 front end so no cost there.
Terry W.

 

[terrywalker]

Completed the removal of the driver's side steering/suspension components. Now the fun begins.
Terry W.

 

[terrywalker]

Driver's side mostly complete. Now for the passenger's side.
Terry W.

 

[74stroker]

Hi Terry,
It looks like you know a lot about suspension, and I could use some help with my 74 Challenger.
I've owned it since 75. It has original rear springs which sagged badly in the last few years. I lowered front end with torsion bar bolts to level it (probably not good in long run). HD shocks are from 1988. Got under the car and photographed a litany of sins which follow. It was originally 360 4 bbl rally, but now is a 415 stroker with about twice as much HP and torque. Still has 3:23 rear.
Most serious problem may be frame rusted near drivers side rear spring rear attachment (photo 2) Lot's of other issues.
14 photos in 2 parts; 1-4, 6-7,9-10 are of rear suspension
11,13,(14,16,18,20) front suspension last (4) will be sent separately

Photo No. View Parts/issues
1 left rear looking forward old shock, rotted bushings...
2 left rear looking back rear spring attachment point on frame serious rust, bolt/rubber off center in hanger
3 left rear spring front hanger sideview
4 left rear spring front hanger, underside
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6 right rear looking forward rotted bushings, shock lower bolt off center
7 right rear looking back rear spring hanger, bushings off center
8 right rear spring, front hanger side view
9 right rear spring, front hanger underside, dry-rotted bushing

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

11 right (passenger) side, looking forward lower control arm, ball joint, shock (leaking?)
13 right (passenger) side, looking back L. control arm, shock, ball joints, rotted bushings, corroded upper control arm..?
15 (same) (same+upper shock attachment loose?)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
16 left (driver's) side, looking back loose connections, rotted bushings, shock, lower control arm
18 left (driver's) side, looking back upper ball joint +...
20 left (driver's) side, looking forward lower control arm, shock, +...
-------------------------------------------------

 

[74stroker]

Here are remaining 4 photos form my previous post showing front suspension on driver's side:

 

[terrywalker]

The only parts I reused were the lower control arm assemblies, torsion bars, strut rods and center steering link. After I found the bent tie rod end, I decided to replace most of the parts including pivot shafts, UCAs and bushings and rotors and calipers and steering gear box.. I shopped around to get the best prices. I told my grandson it doesn't do any good to go if you can't steer and stop. It takes time to get 50 years old parts separated but it is all apart on the passenger's side now and going back together. Getting all the rust removed is a hassle. Best to get it all apart, see what you have and repair or replace. Getting the lower ball joints to separate was difficult and I ruined a pickle fork (ball joint separator tool) before adding some heat to help it separate. I decided to use a vinegar/ salt bath on the parts from this side vs sandblasting to see the difference. Here's a photo of the LCA after four days in the vinegar/ salt bath. I used a pad to scuff it up for paint. Once the pivot shaft and bushing are replaced (using a press), I'll paint and reinstall. I also added a photo of the spindle after the vinegar bath. There are alot of members on here very knowledgeable about suspension on e-bodies. Just ask your questions.

Terry W.

 

[terrywalker]

Here's the before photo of the passenger's side. Looks similar to what you have for 50 years of rust and grime.
Terry W.

 

[74stroker]

You're right....time and the elements sure take their toll..

 

[74stroker]

I am kind of new to the forum. If there is a better way to post under 'suspension' to get more input from folks with expertise, please let me know.
Your 72 looks like its shaping up to be something special..Here's my 74; body work and paint were done 30 years ago.

 

[moparlee]

I am kind of new to the forum. If there is a better way to post under 'suspension' to get more input from folks with expertise, please let me know.
Your 72 looks like its shaping up to be something special..Here's my 74; body work and paint were done 30 years ago.
View attachment 118447View attachment 118448

You should start your own posting in the "steering and suspension" forum.

 

[terrywalker]

As moparlee stated, go to the steering and suspension forum and ask away by starting a topic with your steering or suspension questions. There are many here willing to help.
Terry W.