72 Cuda door panel removel

[mistreta]

I talked to a local Moparts guy, he recommended two sites for good used regulator. One was Steven performance, and another was Mopar city.

 

[EW1BH27]

Is the glass properly attached to the horizontal track? I’ve had the front bolt fall out making it impossible to roll up.

 

[mistreta]

Ill check

 

[mistreta]

I noticed this in the front lower glass, is that part supposed to be in a track?

 

[Xcudame]

No, that's the front stop to keep the window glass going too high.

 

[340challconvert]

Illustrations that might help;

 

[EW1BH27]

Nope, not that. Hopefully these pictures will show what I meant

 

[mistreta]

Very helpful, Thanks again

 

[mistreta]

I found a used original regulator. It is correct that the Cuda and challenger are the same, looking at the diagram above.

 

[EW1BH27]

I don’t believe Cuda And Challenger are the same. IIRC, the shaft that the window crank goes on is longer on the Challenger because the door panel bulges out in that area.

If I’m wrong I welcome to be corrected.

 

[mistreta]

All the sites that have the regulators say Cuda, Barracuda, no mention will work on Challengers.

 

[EW1BH27]

I just Googled pictures of both and I was right, they are different.

 

[Xcudame]

EW1BH27, having both a 70 Challenger and a 71 Barracuda, you are correct. There's a 70 Challenger only regulator, 71 to 74 Challenger regulator. And there's a 70 Barracuda only regulator and a 71 to 74 Barracuda regulator. The 70's both have larger driven gears than the 71 to 74 driven gears. And the Challenger has a longer crank arm than the Barracudas becauseof the difference in the panels. I believe the 70s can use the 71 to 74 regulator. On my Challenger I've noticed all of the driven gear doesn't get used. Probably was copied from the B-Bodies and then they realized the gear could be smaller and save some money. Also, this all makes sense because the aftermarket power window regulators say they work on all 70 to 74 E-Bodies (doesn't need the shaft for the manual hand crack).

 

[EW1BH27]

Thanks for the clarification. I did know the “70 only” thing too. With the Challenger regulator crank shafts exiting the upper square opening it’s impossible to make a ‘70 Challenger reg work in a ‘71+ door too. Those extra unused teeth bind in the early model door stampings. That’s the only quirk. On the other hand, my 70 Barracuda has 71+ doors, one with a ‘70 regulator & the other with a ’71+ regulator and both windows work fine because the window crank shaft exits the lower square hole.

 

[mistreta]

Now I need to decide go with a after market regulator with an exchange policy, or one off E-bay that is a used original that I take a chance on.

 

[Xcudame]

That's a tough one. If the Ebay seller has a lot of sales and high rating (95+%), you're probably safe. I still like the idea of an original used one better than a new one.

 

[mistreta]

Strickly vintage auto got 99.4% positive feedback rating.

 

[EW1BH27]

I'm really curious as to what happened, those regulators are pretty robust. Is it that you can't turn the window crank at all or that it just spins like that Tasmanian Devil?

 

[mistreta]

Good news, well I hope. Check out the pictures. I checked the bottom inside of the door and found plastic washer with a threaded hole. I barely can get my hand inside the opening to put the threaded washer back on the screw. But once its on the window rolls up and down. Nothing on the washer (nut) I can grab on to tighten it. There is another washer that is still in place, so I guess that's all that holds the screw in place. You can see the screw in the bottom of the picture without the washer (nut). Any thoughts

 

[Xcudame]

It's a speciality nut to hold the window glass onto the track and distributetheload over a larger area of the glass. I'd put a dab of blue Loctite on the screw threads and then put the nut on finger tight and let it dry for 24 hours.