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727 swap from a 1975 Dodge Power Wagon?

Gatorslayer

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Does anyone know if a 727 from a 1975 Dodge Power Wagon 4x4 with a 440 would swap into an ebody? I bought the truck to put the rebuilt 440 in a 1971 Cuda instead of the 318 with a 904 trans. I was going to buy a 727 to go with it but it turns out the truck has 727 that was also rebuilt. I did some research and can't really figure this out so I figured I would ask the experts

The big issue seemed to be whether the tail shift had to be changed (which apparently requires a complete teardown of the trans). I have seen other posts saying the torque is different, yoke is different and various other things, but I can't seem to get a clear answer.

Anyone have any input? It would make life so much easier if I could just take the 440 with the 727 out of the truck and drop it right in my Cuda.

I look forward to any input I can get from the group. Thanks in advance.
 

Xcudame

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In my opinion, and if it was mine, I'd tear it down and replace the tail shaft and housing with the standard 2 wheel drive housing (can be from any 75 and earlier 727). If it's been recently rebuilt as you say, all you'd need gasket wise is the front pump gasket and O-ring (O-ring may be fine), the tail housing gasket, tail shaft gasket to access the snap ring (held on by two Philip screws) and the fluid pan gasket. Even going slow and taking your time to put it back together, it's easily done in a day.

Another more expensive option would be to just remove the 4x4 tail shaft housing and install a Gear Vendors over drive unit. They make over drive units for the 4x4 tail shaft.

Any way you go, you're going to need a new drive line. And once the engine and transmission are. in the car, it's easy to measure and get one ordered.
 

Gatorslayer

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In my opinion, and if it was mine, I'd tear it down and replace the tail shaft and housing with the standard 2 wheel drive housing (can be from any 75 and earlier 727). If it's been recently rebuilt as you say, all you'd need gasket wise is the front pump gasket and O-ring (O-ring may be fine), the tail housing gasket, tail shaft gasket to access the snap ring (held on by two Philip screws) and the fluid pan gasket. Even going slow and taking your time to put it back together, it's easily done in a day.

Another more expensive option would be to just remove the 4x4 tail shaft housing and install a Gear Vendors over drive unit. They make over drive units for the 4x4 tail shaft.

Any way you go, you're going to need a new drive line. And once the engine and transmission are. in the car, it's easy to measure and get one ordered.
Great info and insight.

So the 4x4 tailshaft is different? Is it the length or are there other differences between the 4x4 and 2x tailshafts?

Practically, is there a benefit to using a truck 727 vs. a car 727? (E.g. beefier internals, more torque, etc.)

One more - would the truck torque converter be the same?
 

Xcudame

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The truck 727 may be beefier. But all 440 727s are pretty beefy. Mostly it's the tail shaft length that is different. I'm not 100% certain, but the governor weights could be different (heavier). But I thought they are all the same unless it's a Hemi or Max Wedge 727.

For some reason, Chrysler seemed to always give the 440 low stall convertors. Maybe they figured the 440s torque would make the low stall work OK. A convertor from a 340, 383 HP or Hemi are the high stall convertors and my choice for a factory convertor regardless of engine size. Other than an all out race engine, I've just used the high stall factory convertors with no issues.
 

704406

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The truck 727 may be beefier. But all 440 727s are pretty beefy. Mostly it's the tail shaft length that is different. I'm not 100% certain, but the governor weights could be different (heavier). But I thought they are all the same unless it's a Hemi or Max Wedge 727.

For some reason, Chrysler seemed to always give the 440 low stall convertors. Maybe they figured the 440s torque would make the low stall work OK. A convertor from a 340, 383 HP or Hemi are the high stall convertors and my choice for a factory convertor regardless of engine size. Other than an all out race engine, I've just used the high stall factory convertors with no issues.
Great info and insight.

So the 4x4 tailshaft is different? Is it the length or are there other differences between the 4x4 and 2x tailshafts?

Practically, is there a benefit to using a truck 727 vs. a car 727? (E.g. beefier internals, more torque, etc.)

One more - would the truck torque converter be the same?
The 4x4 output or tail shaft is 8" long and has coarse splines to connect to the transfer case input gear thru the short 4x4 adapter from the trans to the transfer case.
The car output or tail shaft is 19.5" and the aluminum extension housing is 18" long and has fine splines for the drive shaft slip yoke. I just measured the two transmission's as I have a trans from a 75 440 4x4 and a 727 from a 440 72 charger on the shop floor
Most internal parts are the same although HP 440's had the heavier Hemi internals
 

Greg Hengber

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The 4x4 output or tail shaft is 8" long and has coarse splines to connect to the transfer case input gear thru the short 4x4 adapter from the trans to the transfer case.
The car output or tail shaft is 19.5" and the aluminum extension housing is 18" long and has fine splines for the drive shaft slip yoke. I just measured the two transmission's as I have a trans from a 75 440 4x4 and a 727 from a 440 72 charger on the shop floor
Most internal parts are the same although HP 440's had the heavier Hemi internals
So, based on your response and Xcudame's response, I could use the 4x4 trans but would have to change the tail shaft. Do I have that right?

My 2 options are:
1. Use 4x4 trans and change tail shaft; and
2. Buy a 727 car core ($400-500) and have it redone.

Any thoughts on best option (assuming teh 4x4 trans is really redone when I open it up)?

Thank you both!!
 

704406

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So, based on your response and Xcudame's response, I could use the 4x4 trans but would have to change the tail shaft. Do I have that right?

My 2 options are:
1. Use 4x4 trans and change tail shaft; and
2. Buy a 727 car core ($400-500) and have it redone.

Any thoughts on best option (assuming teh 4x4 trans is really redone when I open it up)?

Thank you both!!
If the 4x4 trans has been redone and you have a correct 727 output shaft from a car not a truck, and the proper extension housing to match the shaft then by all means swap the shaft and use the trans you have it's likely cheaper than starting with an unknown trans and getting it redone
 

Xcudame

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Yes, you should swap out the output shaft and housing to the "car" versions. Everything will hook up easier that way. The good thing is you can use any 727 long output shaft and housing (small block, big block or slant six) as they're all the same as long as they're pre-1975.
 
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